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What did you do today to your 2003-2008 Pilot?

164489 Views 2525 Replies 98 Participants Last post by  kellym
Replaced NGK Laser Platinum spark plugs with NGK Ruthenium HX plugs on my 03'. Oil change with Amsoil 0w-40 Signature Series oil and Amsoil EA filter. Why 0w-40 instead of the recommended 5w-20? The 0w will flow a little faster on cold starts in the winter and the 40 will protect much better on 90F+ (outside air temp.) summer days.

Also, I called NGK and verified that sparkplugs.com is an authorized distributor/seller (they didn't have them listed on their website) so, I get real plugs and not counterfeits. Yes, there is a whole world of fake/counterfeit auto parts out there and I would recommend not buying auto parts off of Ebay. If you're not buying directly from the stealership, definitely go to the manufactures website and look up their authorized distributor/seller's and if they don't have this information posted give them a call.

Here are some fun for the whole family spark plug pics:

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Yep I followed that procedure when I put in my transmission cooler a few years ago...I wish it was less of a pain to check and fill. I'm about 3k from doing another drain and fill too. The tick is newer or at least much more pronounced than it was in the past. It's not the normal clicking sound. I'll probably stick my long screwdriver down there this week and put it up to my ear to see what I can hear. :D
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Could remove the Serpentine belt and see if it goes away, this will also let you hear better, and bypass belt driven devices that might give you false reading. Just remember not to run it too long since you will not be charging the battery.
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So I also bought 2 more complete Keys, turns out I have a Locksmith that does all that stuff just 1/2 mile away.
all 3 keys now start the Pilot, but it turns out only 2 at a time can be fully coded to also lock/unlock the Pilot
( weird right )
Weird indeed, since the 2006(-2008) Service Manual states up to three fobs can be programmed.

What model year do you have, again? You may have mentioned it but I don't remember offhand. That's why it a good idea to add your model year (and your location) under your avatar and user name and/or in your signature, so we can help you better. :)

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It's not the normal clicking sound. I'll probably stick my long screwdriver down there this week and put it up to my ear to see what I can hear. :D
C'mon, spend the big bucks treat yourself to a bona fide mechanics stethoscope. You owe it to yourself. :)

Mechanics Stethoscope

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Not our Pilot, the neighbour down the road. Wanted me to plug his tire, told him SOL hole is way too big for a plug. Time for the spare tire. Since he didn't have the key for the locking wheel nut he said he will have to get it towed. ( I laughed and laughed to myself) Locknuts are a scam, had it off in roughly 7 seconds. They are all show, and do not really deter anything. He was amazed.
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Weird indeed, since the 2006(-2008) Service Manual states up to three fobs can be programmed.

What model year do you have, again? You may have mentioned it but I don't remember offhand. That's why it a good idea to add your model year (and your location) under your avatar and user name and/or in your signature, so we can help you better. :)
Oh, it's a 2007 Pilot
I've got it up there now (y)
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Pulled my skid plate and brush guard off. Also marked fasteners and subframe drop kit spacers with respect to their location on the body for when the shop has to drop the subframe they don't mix them up. I'm planning to have the transmission swapped this month. Going to go with a Jasper reman with what seems like a local reputable shop. I'll also have them swap the leaking rear main seal and the other seal on the back of the engine. I'd do it myself if I had a lift...honestly doesn't seem too difficult. Last month I started getting some bad vibrations and lack of power under quicker accelerations in 1st/2nd. My guess is worn clutch packs. 1st/2nd has been rough for the last 5ish years so I figured it was only a matter of time.

Once everything is swapped I'll also be doing regular oil analysis from Blackstone labs on all my changes. Probably send in some baseline fluid tests as well. $35 for a test that gives me insight on how well the fluid is doing is nothing in comparison to this swap. Maybe do some comparisons with DW-1, VML, and Redline D4/D6.

Also need to rewire some of the aftermarket wiring for the amplifiers and aftermarket lighting so they can drop the subframe without it interfering. I'm also going to probably label some of the connectors/parts as well just to make their job a little easier and hopefully lessen the chance that something gets missed.

This isn't going to be a cheap bill but the car is virtually perfect short of the transmission. It's been sitting the last month, definitely miss driving this car. Especially given I can't go up to see the recent snow here as my other car is lowered and don't feel comfortable taking it through mountain snow. Everything else on the car I've gone through with a fine tooth comb and given the amount of money and time I've sunken into this car I'd be happy driving this for at least another 3 years. Engine is still in very good shape and every maintenance item on it is done. Also cheaper than that TRD Pro 4Runner I'm really tempted to buy :p
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Not our Pilot, the neighbour down the road. Wanted me to plug his tire, told him SOL hole is way too big for a plug. Time for the spare tire. Since he didn't have the key for the locking wheel nut he said he will have to get it towed. ( I laughed and laughed to myself) Locknuts are a scam, had it off in roughly 7 seconds. They are all show, and do not really deter anything. He was amazed.
I wised up a couple of years ago and got rid of my lock nuts.
More of a nuisance than anything.
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Not our Pilot, the neighbour down the road. Wanted me to plug his tire, told him SOL hole is way too big for a plug. Time for the spare tire. Since he didn't have the key for the locking wheel nut he said he will have to get it towed. ( I laughed and laughed to myself) Locknuts are a scam, had it off in roughly 7 seconds. They are all show, and do not really deter anything. He was amazed.
stripped nut remover and an impact and veroom. Off they come.
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stripped nut remover
So, is it like one of these?

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I got it in this handy kit a couple of years ago.

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I got these. You can use a socket that is just too snug to go on by hand and hammer it on real good. Works good.
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I got these. You can use a socket that is just too snug to go on by hand and hammer it on real good. Works good.
I have a similar set, They bit hard and come with a rod to hammer the nut back out of the extractor once removed. Put socket in vise and then hammer out the nut jammed in the teeth.
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Had a CEL on the daughter's 2007, and my Foxwell NT630 Plus scan tool said it was an evap code. Put in a new tank of fresh gas to add to the stale gas from sitting for months while she was visiting her BF in SoCal, made sure to make the gas cap go clickety-clickety-click-click, and now a week or so later, with hardly any driving, the CEL is gone. We'll see if it stays off.

Didn't even have to resort to a Sharpie or electrical tape. :D

Speedometer Automotive lighting Gauge Odometer Trip computer


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Spoke too soon. It's back. No drivability problems, as far as I can tell. Gonna take some time and weigh my options before jumping to conclusions about my next move. :)


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Just checking in. Currently enjoying the car without having to work on it. Car has 224000 miles and will be needing an oil change soon. In addition, I'm going to get the power steering hose changed out and maybe change plugs. The car's mileage tells me that a valve adjustment is needed, but I just might wait until the next timing belt change. It is not making any excess ticking noise at the moment. Power and gas mileage are normal at 17-20 mpg combined city and highway driving. The timing belt will be due at 300k.
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Spoke too soon. It's back. No drivability problems, as far as I can tell. Gonna take some time and weigh my options before jumping to conclusions about my next move. :)


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Black electrical tape, or a sharpie. If it is not flashing, it is not important.
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It is not making any excess ticking noise at the moment. Power and gas mileage are normal at 17-20 mpg combined city and highway driving. The timing belt will be due at 300k.
I believe the exhaust valves on these engines normally tighten so you won’t hear the ticking. Waiting 76k miles before doing the valve adjustment may be a bit too long.
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Evap leak. Now would be a good time to build/buy a smoke machine and look for leaks. Lots of rubber that can go bad. Especially now with the cold winter months. Might be better in the summer, but winter will keep presenting itself.
I was looking into using a fog machine. Except don't use fog machine juice. It is 80% water, and doesn't produce a good enough fog to use effectively. A mix using 50/50 PG/VG should net a hefty stream of long lasting fog, and minimal DIY.
I prefer using PG/VG over the petroleum based Mineral Oil (Baby Oil). That stuff is toxic, and shouldn't be used by anyone. Especially as a fog that you inhale. People haven't got a clue. Like Johnsons baby powder (Asbestos). It's basically powderized asbestos. Go figure. Still wouldn't go inhaling PG/VG fog either, but a little less toxic. Used in nicotine vaporizers.
Many DIY on youtube to make your own smoke machine if you decide to go that route. Otherwise you will just keep throwing parts at it.
You could remove the gas cap seal and clean it, apply some silicone grease and clean the matting surface and see if it is just the seal. This should be a regular maintenance regardless. The issue could be internal gas cap issues. If the silicone grease and cleaning doesn't work. Do a leak down test before replacing the gas cap, unless you hear it is actually not right.
If the fuel cap is leaking you should be able to smell the fuel fumes. Without opening the gas cap smell around it. If you smell fuel, it doesn't necessarily mean it is the cap, but something in that area is leaking. There are seals on the filler tube that go bad too. I had to replace one on my 03. It gave symptoms of a fuel cap, but the cap was not the issue. It was an internal seal dried up on the filler neck.
Slowly open your gas cap. You should hear the pressure release as you open it. No pressure release, means no pressure built up. Means there is a leak in the system. If you do a leak down test with a smoke machine and find no leaks. Gas cap is a good place to start throwing money at it.
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You could remove the gas cap seal and clean it, apply some silicone grease and clean the matting surface and see if it is just the seal. This should be a regular maintenance regardless.
Gas cap is a good place to start throwing money at it.
Great tips, thanks. Being the lazy and cheap bastard that I am, that's where I'm going to start, as soon as I gather up the gumption to clear some more snow off the vehicle. 😲

Ian Lavallee (@ianlavalleee) 's videos with Knight Rider (Main Theme) - TV Sounds Unlimited | TikTok

[Piloteers parameters won't let me embed Tiktok vids. Must be either a national security risk or a bozo-prophylactic measure. :D]

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Alrighty, so the night before last I got the job done on that gasket. Turns out the typical gasket that I've seen in videos for this issue (gasket with the screen) was incorrect. As I tried to assemble it I noticed it didn't fit. The one without the screen is correct. The Honda dealership parts guys seemed really confused there would be two different gaskets right there, but they let me return the wrong one and nab the new one for 4 bucks less. Odd thing...that correct gasket is made in Taiwan and not Japan. Photos uploaded obviously not my own.
What year is your Pilot? I've got an 04 and when I removed my spool valve assembly, the original gasket had the screen on it, so I replaced it with the same.
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