What did you do today to your 2003-2008 Pilot?

162603 Views 2523 Replies 97 Participants Last post by plplplpl, 3 d ago

Oh3CoPilot

Discussion Starter · Jul 5, 2020 (Edited)

4

Replaced NGK Laser Platinum spark plugs with NGK Ruthenium HX plugs on my 03'. Oil change with Amsoil 0w-40 Signature Series oil and Amsoil EA filter. Why 0w-40 instead of the recommended 5w-20? The 0w will flow a little faster on cold starts in the winter and the 40 will protect much better on 90F+ (outside air temp.) summer days.

Also, I called NGK and verified that sparkplugs.com is an authorized distributor/seller (they didn't have them listed on their website) so, I get real plugs and not counterfeits. Yes, there is a whole world of fake/counterfeit auto parts out there and I would recommend not buying auto parts off of Ebay. If you're not buying directly from the stealership, definitely go to the manufactures website and look up their authorized distributor/seller's and if they don't have this information posted give them a call.

Here are some fun for the whole family spark plug pics:

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road2cycle

· #320 · Jan 1, 2021

My wife noticed the original key fob on our 2005 Pilot didn’t feel right when turned in the ignition switch. I took a look and the plastic around the fob buttons was starting to crack. Some super glue and duct tape resolved that problem for the time being. Hopefully it lasts for a good while because I don’t want to spend $40 getting a key cut.

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road2cycle

· #344 · Jan 10, 2021

The windshield on the wife’s Pilot suffered a rock hit crack on the freeway earlier this week. I finally had time to use one of those DIY kits on it. It doesn’t look professional, but if it holds just like the previous repairs I’ve made to the windshield then she’ll be happy.

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road2cycle

· #347 · Jan 10, 2021

aggrex said:
Every windshield chip or crack has different outcomes +\- so hopefully your repair lasts a long time. My wife uses clear nail polish to “seal” the chip hoping to limit the damage and sometimes it works and other times the crack gets bigger.

I hadn’t heard of using clear nail polish. That’s a lot cheaper than the glass resin. The kit I purchased has the plunger to pressurize and inject the resin, and I’m sure it would work with nail polish.

road2cycle

· #348 · Jan 10, 2021

My wife just told me she is grateful she didn’t get a new windshield a year ago which was the last time her windshield took a major rock hit. Her first instinct is to panic and think worst case scenario. My first instinct, frugalness, says there must be something else to try since I don’t want to replace windshields every time there is a small crack. I figured the cracks were less than the diameter of a dime, so trying the DIY solution was a good first alternative. So far so good with the cracks not lengthening.

As an FYI, I took it to a shop the last time I did the DIY solution just to price out a windshield in case the fix failed. Aftermarket windshield is about $300-400 installed. And windshield crack repair is a one shot deal (I’m guessing that’s if you attempt to inject solution into the crack; not necessarily for a surface only repair).

road2cycle

· #374 · Jan 16, 2021

jimmaki said:
What are them gray thangs? Baby mice?

That’s what it looked like to me as well. That blower wheel makes a good nest until it starts spinning.

road2cycle

· #382 · Jan 19, 2021

ImBroke said:
I swear, this thing is going to kill me.. The driver door doesn't lock with the power, suspect bad actuator. I pull it in the garage, and get out. All the doors lock. Except the driver door. I grab the handle, and nothing happens. Something with the outside door handle is broken. I only have the one key, and it's in the ignition. All I can do right now is stare at it. This is not making me happy today. This Pilot's name is Christine.

EDIT: Evidently the driver door did lock. When I unlocked it with the key, the inside lever did go up. Nice to know nothing wrong with the outside door handle. It redeemed itself a little. I need to get another key fob programmed soon.

Glad to hear your Pilot isn’t possessed.

road2cycle

· #431 · Mar 8, 2021

Vacuumed the rear blower filter screen. At 15k miles there was some lint accumulated on it. I probably could have waited another 5-10k miles, but it only took a few minutes.

I also vacuumed the rest of the Pilot to make up to my wife that her vehicle got kicked to the driveway while both of mine get to enjoy the cozy garage.

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road2cycle

· #450 · Mar 10, 2021

J995 said:
Today after work she's going into the shop for a 200k service:

-Timing belt replacement (Aisin)
-Water pump replacement (Aisin)
-Transfer case fluid replacement
-Rear diff fluid replacement
-Transmission fluid change
-P0420 conveniently just turned on yesterday, so maybe getting a new O2 sensor
-Suspension check (no clunks, but at this mileage I want it looked over carefully)
-Radiator check (doesn't leak but is still the original, can't decide whether or not to just replace it)

Am I missing anything? Trying to keep it for at least 3 more years. Valve adjustment, power steering fluid replacement, and brake fluid replacement were all done recently. Michelins are good until 250,000.

Make sure rear diff fluid is replaced with OEM VTM-4 fluid or it will chirp/slip.
You might have them check motor mounts as well while it’s being inspected.

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road2cycle

· #467 · Mar 14, 2021

Not too exciting, but I gave the Pilot its first full synthetic oil change today. The cost difference between 5 quarts full synthetic and conventional oil at Autozone was only a 5 dollars, so I decided to splurge. Unfortunately while I was inspecting under the Pilot I think I see signs of oil seepage at the rear main seal area. I'll have to keep an eye on that and hopefully it doesn't get worse. Everything else under the Pilot looked good, including the ground cable near the starter and transmission . . . nothing like the photos aggrex has posted.

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road2cycle

· #470 · Mar 14, 2021

What’s your kickback from the AT-205 manufacturer?😁
I’ll have to look into that fluid. Would a high mileage motor oil be another alternative?

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road2cycle

· #472 · Mar 14, 2021

All those gaskets/seals are the originals on my Pilot. When I get around to doing the valve adjustment I’ll have to tackle some / most of those items.

I think the next time I get some time to work on the Pilot I’ll clean up the engine block and try to pinpoint the source of the leak(s).

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road2cycle

· #526 · Mar 30, 2021

CPTDaniel said:
Related, anyone know where I can find a housing/lens for the passenger side reverse lamp on a 2006 EX-L? I found some online for a small fortune, so I'm not sure it needs fixed just yet, ya know?

The only place I found online was here, but as you said it was mighty expensive. I fixed the crack on the lens housing with clear packing tape instead. The tape needs to be replaced every couple years, but that’s not a huge task.

OEM Honda Parts at Majestic Honda | Majestic Honda Automotive Parts

Great deals on genuine OEM Honda replacement parts and accessories. Get factory direct Honda parts shipped quickly to your door.

www.hondaautomotiveparts.com

road2cycle

· #535 · Apr 3, 2021

I never know how my kids will respond when I ask if they want to help with car maintenance. Fortunately today my son said yes, so we did a power steering fluid exchange (4x with a modified horse syringe) and a VTM-4 drain and fill. It was nice to have some company out there and I think he learned a thing or two. It’s been nice seeing him gain confidence as his skills improve.

Some lady on my street looked at me like I was crazy as I serpentined the Pilot curb to curb to exercise the power steering pump. I got the same look the second time we did the same thing. She didn’t seem phased the third round. I guess she figured by that point that I wasn’t going to take out every car parked on the street.

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road2cycle

· #538 · Apr 5, 2021

OhthreeHondaCoPilot said:
Motor oil, filter, trans drain and fill, and rear diff fluid changed. Got it all done in 25min. Yes, I set a timer.

That’s crazy fast!!! I’m guessing you filled the tranny through the fill port instead of the dipstick since filling through the dipstick takes 20 minutes on its own.😁

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road2cycle

· #551 · Apr 7, 2021

OhthreeHondaCoPilot said:
I've looked for it but, can't seem to find it. I've seen videos/photos of where it's at but, still can't find it.....

If your Pilot is an Ohthree it likely has the oil jet placed in the tranny fill port location. That was Honda’s fix for tranny issues on the earlier first gen Pilots.

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road2cycle

· #563 · Apr 9, 2021

Good luck getting the BBQ assembled. The last time I put one together was 22 years ago (my el cheapo grill refuses to die so I can’t justify getting a new one) and it took a while. I’m guessing things haven’t changed much. But it’s safer assembling it yourself than trusting that the (fill in store name) got all the bolts and hoses tightened correctly. Must see pics when you’re done.

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road2cycle

· #564 · Apr 10, 2021

OhthreeHondaCoPilot said:
Thanks!

road2cycle mentioned this above "If your Pilot is an Ohthree it likely has the oil jet placed in the tranny fill port location. That was Honda’s fix for tranny issues on the earlier first gen Pilots."

I'll take another look though today.

Here is the location of the tranny fill port on the 2005 Pilot. The view is from looking down from the driver's side fender. I just took this today after doing a tranny drain and fill as well as changing out the tranny filter.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive wheel system Automotive exterior

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road2cycle

· #567 · Apr 10, 2021

plplplpl said:
My el cheapo grill is pretty much the same age. I still have PTSD from assembling it. But I'd be willing to bet a perfectly grilled kebab the new one doesn't last as long.

I won't take you up on that bet because I know you're likely correct. It's sad how things being disposable after a few years has become the norm.

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road2cycle

· #610 · May 2, 2021

I washed and vacuumed my wife’s Pilot earlier this week since I felt guilty that it’s the vehicle that ended up on the driveway.

road2cycle

· #691 · Jun 3, 2021

aggrex said:
Had a similar hood closure situation after unbolting the latch assembly to remove the two fans and radiator. Proper adjustment of the hood bump stops also helped since they were removed for rust remediation.

I ran into a similar problem a few years back when replacing the radiator. When I dropped the hood it would bounce up sometimes instead of catching and remaining latched. I had Sharpie marked the outline of the latch before removal, but I think I put it in a couple millimeters too low initially. A minor latch height adjustment resolved the issue.

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