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Got the evaporator coils cleaned for the AC with foaming aerosol cleaner in a can that you inject through the evaporator drain from under the car (including the center console AC coil). Then I removed the cabin air filter and hit the filter area with mold, mildew, and fungus aerosol disinfectant then put the air filter cover back on (with no air filter installed) and sprayed the disinfectant through the air intake just in front of the windshield. I did this as instructions said, both once with the AC on and once with the heater on. Finally I deodorized with Meguiar's new car scent whole car re-freshener and finally put in a new Fram fresh breeze cabin air filter. Also, used a clean toilet brush to brush off the coils (there was some gunk on the coil) right where the air filter goes in and swept out a little bit of junk that was building up on the bottom area.

For the front evaporator coil drain, the provided hose attachment was too small so, I wrapped some electrical tape around it and then it fit nice and snug and didn't allow any of the cleaner to leak out until I pulled it out.

I jacked the Pilot up a bit to give myself a bit more room under but, isn't necessary. Turning the front wheels all the way to the right helps with getting to the front drain hose.

View attachment 137870 View attachment 137871 View attachment 137872
Sounds like your evap coil +a/c system got an intense probing colon cleansing flush job
 

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Probably, but does it really matter? I mean, unless you're taking the Pilot to car show, the valve covers are aluminum and therefore they don't rust - and they're covered by the plastic plenum cover. My valve covers on the '03 haven't had paint on them for at least 3 years. I admit that they have some slight oxidation but personally I'm more concerned about clean parts and tight fitting gaskets than appearance. The only person that sees the valve covers is the guy wrenching the bolts...and that guy doesn't care. ;-)
To each his/her own for the details but there are other crud cutting agents that could clean up the exterior parts of the engine. I’m well stocked with brake cleaner spray cans as I burn through many of them on different projects as nothing works better.
 

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It's in the shop today for a new timing belt plus all the other stuff that gets replaced along with it for $1,300. My Pilot is 17 years old and 61,000 miles and well past the 6-8yr timing belt replacement and has never been changed before. The shop is going to leave the used timing belt in the car so, I can see how bad/dry rotted it is. After this new timing belt, I'm going to change again at 105k or 10 years. I'll post pics when I can. Also, having the parking brake adjusted and rear diff. fluid changed.
The rear diff is an ez job with HF transfer pump. Make sure to use VTM-4
 

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Rubber TB tend to not show any breaks or cracks when past it’s service life when preemptively replaced but now you got 7yr/100k of peace of mind. That motor mount bolt was the same bolt that broke flush on the last step of my sub-frame spacer install. It was a PIA to drill that broken bolt out on the vehicle.
 

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That bolt is seized on my motor mount bracket too. I have a feeling I'm going to have to drill it out.
Seized or not broken yet? Continue applying PB Blaster or whatever. Interested to see what steps @OhthreeHondaCoPilot mechanics use to take care of the broken bolt on the lower motor mount.Their situation is a lot easier since they have the lower motor mount out of the Pilot. I drilled the lower motor mount in the Pilot rather than risking another broken bolt to set me back.
 

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I changed the passenger side motor mount a few weeks ago. I wasn't able to loosen that bolt at all, so I ended up just jacking up the engine and getting enough wiggle room to work the old mount out and the new one in without removing that bracket. But I'm planning to do the timing belt this weekend, so it'll be necessary to remove that frozen bolt this time since the bracket has to come off for the TB job. I had my biggest cheater bar on it and could only get it to turn about 1/16" of a turn. I was afraid I'd snap it off, so I just left it there and ordered a new bolt. So if I end up breaking it off this weekend, I'll drill it out, chase the threads, and use the new bolt.
After dealing with seized/broken bolts I use anti-seize on these bolts whenever possible.
 

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So, they also told me that my rear brake pads are only at 3mm and they wanted to machiene the rotors and new pads for $350. Forget that, I'll do it myself and got all the parts plus an impact screw driver for $165.00 with Duralast Gold rotors and pads.
Wise decision! New rotors will turn out better than turning them old ones.
 

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Good! The third brake lamp tends to burn out quite often. Lots of Pilots driving around not realizing (or not caring) they're out.


I'd just add to use a little rag over the pick (or flathead screwdriver) as Honda recommends, to reduce the risk of breaking the little tab, without which the two little triangular red plastic covers won't snap into place anymore and you'll probably lose them while driving. They are annoying and overpriced to replace, so best to avoid the hassle.

You didn't break your little screw cover tabs, did you?

On my first change, I did, and had to fork over something like six bucks plus taxes for that tiny bit of red plastic.
View attachment 138150
I used a pinch of flexible caulk to hold the tabless triangle on.
 

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Initial impressions: light weight, low profile in appearance and super ez to install. Might deflect a bit of direct sun at certain angles and opening the window a bit in the rain is the main benefit.
 

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Battery was on its last leg and just got a new Duralast AGM 24F today. I was going to get a NorthStar but, @$306.00 and not knowing how much longer I'll have the Pilot, I decided to pass on that. The old battery was a regular wet cell triple A branded battery and lasted 5yrs.
Good choice as AGM has some benefits over the regular flood batteries. The AGM batteries from Advance or Autozone or Walmart are probably from the same manufacturer and offer good value.
 

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Got rid of the donut (spare) .... took a chisel and a torch to remove the rusted spare-tire-hoist.
After I extricate my never lowered or used 16 yr old spare tire I should probably test the unused jack. The attached picture from @WannaLearn doesn’t inspire much confidence when lifting a Pilot with the OEM scissor jack. In addition the jack will be useless with my LIFTED Pilot.
Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Wheel Car
 
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