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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Scored a 1-owner 2011 Pilot Touring through CarMax. 112,000 miles. My parents have had 2 Honda Accords over the years. The first one they sold with over 400,000 miles on the odometer (it's still running around somewhere). Their 2nd Accord has 370,000 and still running strong. I'm making a big bet on Honda reliability across their brand. Took advantage of the 24hr test drive and immediately took it to my mechanic. Even though I was paying him to find something wrong with it, he couldn't. I'm hoping for a trouble-free family hauler for many years. The passenger-side mirror is on the fritz, but CarMax has already ordered a new mirror assembly and will replace it. Now I just have to figure out what all the buttons do, lol.

 

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It does have recalls that still need performed. I suspect it's the original belt. I can't think of any way of checking without pulling the engine apart, lol.
Any maintenance records? Anything believable in the CarFax report? Did your mechanic check the plugs? Back bank plugs look ok? Disable VCM as soon as possible. Congrats on the new (to you) car! From here it looks very nice!
 

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It looks very nice indeed! Ordered with the optional front and rear bumper garnishes (the silver skid plate looking pieces) and the fender flare extensions.

Figure out the timing belt and I too would recommend disabling the VCM. It should provide years of trouble free miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Any maintenance records? Anything believable in the CarFax report? Did your mechanic check the plugs? Back bank plugs look ok? Disable VCM as soon as possible. Congrats on the new (to you) car! From here it looks very nice!
No maintenance records. However the previous owner maintained it, it didn't show up in the CarFax report. Mechanic didn't find anything out of the ordinary. I've read here about the VCM woes. I just need to figure out which VCM-disabling device is the legit one.

It looks very nice indeed! Ordered with the optional front and rear bumper garnishes (the silver skid plate looking pieces) and the fender flare extensions.

Figure out the timing belt and I too would recommend disabling the VCM. It should provide years of trouble free miles.
I never noticed the bumper trim but you're right. It is different. I like it! I'll get some ownership pictures once I get it professionally detailed.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Was shopping, now owning!

They say you shouldn't go to the supermarket on an empty stomach, but once in a while you find something that really hits the spot.
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I just need to figure out which VCM-disabling device is the legit one.
This is the one I'd recommend nowadays.


 

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No maintenance records. However the previous owner maintained it, it didn't show up in the CarFax report. Mechanic didn't find anything out of the ordinary. I've read here about the VCM woes. I just need to figure out which VCM-disabling device is the legit one.



I never noticed the bumper trim but you're right. It is different. I like it! I'll get some ownership pictures once I get it professionally detailed.
There are plenty of people who do a good job with oil changes and other maintenance but trade a vehicle in instead of spending over $1,000... the dealers in my area right now are charging over $1,500 for the timing belt, tensioner, serpentine, plugs and valve adjustment.

In summary, "good maintenance" is no guarantee.
 

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No maintenance records. However the previous owner maintained it, it didn't show up in the CarFax report. Mechanic didn't find anything out of the ordinary. I've read here about the VCM woes. I just need to figure out which VCM-disabling device is the legit one.
Most here seem to like the S-VCM
If you go that route, I'd suggest sticking with the standard model. Simplest, easiest to install and most reliable. Some like the one with a switch to allay fears of parasitic battery drain and undetected overheating. I haven't found either to be a problem. I tried them all and found that some of the more customizable ones can cause DTCs as the ECU doesn't like the ETC to change rapidly when the engine is warm. The codes will resolve themselves so it's not a big deal. But it's best to install the disablers when the engine is cold or at ambient temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
There are plenty of people who do a good job with oil changes and other maintenance but trade a vehicle in instead of spending over $1,000... the dealers in my area right now are charging over $1,500 for the timing belt, tensioner, serpentine, plugs and valve adjustment.

In summary, "good maintenance" is no guarantee.
The 7-year timing belt replacement interval conveniently coincides with the 7-yeat [SIC] itch.
Should I wait for the Maintenance Minder to pop up? I understand that it's "due"...but can I wait until it needs it? Do they give much warning before they go?
 

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Should I wait for the Maintenance Minder to pop up? I understand that it's "due"...but can I wait until it needs it? Do they give much warning before they go?
The old recommendation, before the maintenance minder, was 7-years/105K-miles.
You're (well) beyond both limits.
Some owners have either not received a warning or ignored it.
If the belt (or tensioner) fails, you risk incurring expensive engine damage.
So, how's your luck running?

In any event, a wiseguy such as yourself is no doubt already aware of this potentiality and has already factored the cost of the timing belt job into the purchase price.
[FYI, it's not SIC, it's TYPO. I hate typing on a laptop with flat keys.]
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The old recommendation, before the maintenance minder, was 7-years/105K-miles.
You're (well) beyond both limits.
Some owners have either not received a warning or ignored it.
If the belt (or tensioner) fails, you risk incurring expensive engine damage.
So, how's your luck running?

In any event, a wiseguy such as yourself is no doubt already aware of this potentiality and has already factored the cost of the timing belt job into the purchase price.
[FYI, it's not SIC, it's TYPO. I hate typing on a laptop with flat keys.]
Sorry, I didn't mean to be a wise guy.
Considering it doesn't need anything else. I'll put a new belt on the priority list. Fortunately, being my wife's car, it doesn't get nearly as many miles (she's a stay-at-home-mom).
 

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Welcome to the forum and congrats on your purchase.
 

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My list to keep a healthy running Honda with a V6...
  1. Disable the VCM.
  2. Timing Belt Water Pump with coolant flush (90-100k)(Aisin Kit TKH-002)
  3. Spark plugs NGK Laser Iridiums (100k)
  4. Air Filter new/kept clean
  5. Clean MAF, remove, with a few short burst of CRC Electronic Cleaner or MAF Cleaner directly into the electrodes. Let dry thoroughly, reinstall.
  6. Intake hose leak free, clamps tight.
  7. Spark plug tubes oil free
  8. Coils free of oil and firing
  9. PCV replace (100k)
  10. EGR valve clean or replace (if idle issues)
  11. Full Synthetic Oil 0w20 (no blends or Extended Performance oil)
  12. Top Tier 87 octane fuel
  13. Periodic Italian tune ups. Some long highway speed drives.
  14. Last but not least, begin the switch to Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF. Proven to out perform Honda DW-1 in your 5-speed transmission.
Not talking brakes or tires. smirk
 
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My list to keep a healthy running Honda with a V6...
  1. Disable the VCM.
  2. Timing Belt Water Pump with coolant flush (90-100k)(Aisin Kit TKH-002)
  3. Spark plugs NGK Laser Iridiums (100k)
  4. Air Filter new/kept clean
  5. Clean MAF, remove, with a few short burst of CRC Electronic Cleaner or MAF Cleaner directly into the electrodes. Let dry thoroughly, reinstall.
  6. Intake hose leak free, clamps tight.
  7. Spark plug tubes oil free
  8. Coils free of oil and firing
  9. PCV replace (100k)
  10. EGR valve clean or replace (if idle issues)
  11. Full Synthetic Oil 0w20 (no blends or Extended Performance oil)
  12. Top Tier 87 octane fuel
  13. Periodic Italian tune ups. Some long highway speed drives.
  14. Last but not least, begin the switch to Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF. Proven to out perform Honda DW-1 in your 5-speed transmission.
Not talking brakes or tires. smirk
You neglected to mention which brand/type of coolant to use - and something about a hose.
 

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You neglected to mention which brand/type of coolant to use - and something about a hose.
That's preference. I dont want to go pushing snake oil. PM me. smirk
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
My list to keep a healthy running Honda with a V6...
  1. Disable the VCM.
  2. Timing Belt Water Pump with coolant flush (90-100k)(Aisin Kit TKH-002)
  3. Spark plugs NGK Laser Iridiums (100k)
  4. Air Filter new/kept clean
  5. Clean MAF, remove, with a few short burst of CRC Electronic Cleaner or MAF Cleaner directly into the electrodes. Let dry thoroughly, reinstall.
  6. Intake hose leak free, clamps tight.
  7. Spark plug tubes oil free
  8. Coils free of oil and firing
  9. PCV replace (100k)
  10. EGR valve clean or replace (if idle issues)
  11. Full Synthetic Oil 0w20 (no blends or Extended Performance oil)
  12. Top Tier 87 octane fuel
  13. Periodic Italian tune ups. Some long highway speed drives.
  14. Last but not least, begin the switch to Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF. Proven to out perform Honda DW-1 in your 5-speed transmission.
Not talking brakes or tires. smirk
Good info. Thanks!
 
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