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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2010 Pilot that keeps warping the front rotors, but more specifically the right front. I have put new rotors and pads on the front three times, and twice I’ve had the rotors resurfaced. The last time, two weeks ago, I replaced the rotors, pads both calipers, and both brake hoses. This repair lasted two weeks. Right front is warped again. All of these repairs have been in the last year. Any suggestions? Honda says mine isn’t the first with this issue, and they don’t want to work on it. They suggested aftermarket rotors that are drilled and slotted. Anyone have any luck with this type of repair?
 

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Did you make sure that the caliper piston and sliding pins are not seized?
What is your driving style?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I don’t drive it hard or brake heavily either. I wonder if I have a bearing issue, but it doesn’t make any noise while driving, just when braking.
 

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Do you ever hear ABS buzz when braking?
 

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I would assume that a very bad wheel bearing which could cause the rotor to be misaligned with the caliper so much, would also make noise. I am fresh out of ideas.
 

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Make sure you maintain the correct torque spec on all wheel lugs. You have to check this every time anyone rotates the tires. Whether its NTB, Discount Tire, dealership or your uncle servicing the vehicle the torque spec never seems to be correct or match across all lugs and wheels. Trust me on this. I had all of these problems you guys described above but once I started to re-torque to spec I have never had one issue with Honda rotors on our last few cars. We always get at least 60k-80k on each set of pads, never having to change out the rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Every time I have the wheels off, I retorque them. I’ve just ordered drilled and slotted rotors and their matching brakes. Keeping my fingers crossed. ?
 

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Both times I had problems with warped rotors was after service where the lug nuts were torqued unevenly. Roughly two weeks of normal driving and the pulsation showed up. The first time was after the dealership rotated the tires. I have read that heat cycling the rotor with uneven torque like that is the main cause of rotor warping. I checked the torque required to break the lugs free and they were all over from 115 to 195 lb/ft to break free. The dealer tried resurfacing the rotors (on the car lathe, all four rotors) and couldn't correct the problem. They ended up replacing the rotors for me and that fixed it.
The next time it occurred was a couple weeks after having Discount rotate the tires. Once again I checked the break free torque and it was all over the place. Not as bad as the dealership's mistake though. Discount did not admit fault, but they did pay to have the front rotors resurfaced. That fixed the issue and all has been well since.
My '13 is at 103k miles with plenty of life still in the original pads! So brake use is gentle, not severe. The only brake pulsation has been those two occasions.
 

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Both times I had problems with warped rotors was after service where the lug nuts were torqued unevenly. Roughly two weeks of normal driving and the pulsation showed up. The first time was after the dealership rotated the tires. I have read that heat cycling the rotor with uneven torque like that is the main cause of rotor warping. I checked the torque required to break the lugs free and they were all over from 115 to 195 lb/ft to break free. The dealer tried resurfacing the rotors (on the car lathe, all four rotors) and couldn't correct the problem. They ended up replacing the rotors for me and that fixed it.
The next time it occurred was a couple weeks after having Discount rotate the tires. Once again I checked the break free torque and it was all over the place. Not as bad as the dealership's mistake though. Discount did not admit fault, but they did pay to have the front rotors resurfaced. That fixed the issue and all has been well since.
My '13 is at 103k miles with plenty of life still in the original pads! So brake use is gentle, not severe. The only brake pulsation has been those two occasions.

Good info, thanks.
 

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My '10 consistently warps the front rotors within 35k of swapping in the new ones. I've given up diagnostics and just replace them as a "regular" maintenance item.
I do all my the maintenance myself. All previous cars I've owned did not warp rotors.
I use Centrix rotors.

...here's an idea: find a rotor that fits but does not warp. Maybe one with a thicker hat? My GUESS is the disc is thick enough but the center hat area is too weak.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The new factory rotors appear to be heavy enough, but maybe not enough cooling area designed in to them. I just got some high performance drilled and slotted rotors to put on. Hope that will work.
 

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Apparently warped rotors are a myth, well the metal doesn't actually warp but instead uneven pad deposits build up on the rotor surface causing the pulsation and vibration that we don't like.

I would assume that a very bad wheel bearing which could cause the rotor to be misaligned with the caliper so much, would also make noise. I am fresh out of ideas.
A bad wheel bearing could cause excessive runout, which will cause uneven wear on the pads/rotors, leaving high spots on the rotors that cause the vibration we mostly associate with 'warping.'

I'm sort of suffering from the same issue. I love smooth brakes, but I too am on my third set of rotors in almost 100K miles and they have all started vibrating relatively early. The current set are the cheapest Centric rotors with the Centric Premium Ceramic pads ('Premium" is now rebranded as PosiQuiet) and the vibration isn't horrible; in fact it's only noticeable when lightly braking at highway speeds, but still not smooth how it should be.

I used to have an Accord that suffered from factory rotors warping relatively early. I replaced them with a set of DBA (Disc Brakes Australia) slotted rotors, and I got 100K miles out of them with no warping whatsoever. I don't know if it's true, but I've been told that the slots help keep the pads clean by deglazing them and ensuring even transfer of pad material to the rotor. I can't find these DBA rotors for the Pilot, however Raybestos makes a R-300 slotted rotor with a unique slot design. I am thinking of using these but would like to know if there's really any benefit over a cheaper blank rotor.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I finally got the problem fixed. I replaced the rotors again with drilled and slotted rotors. No more warping. Got the rotors and pads from R1 concepts. 171 bucks and so worth it. It’s sad that a factory designed brake system won’t work without this kind of issue. Even aftermarket replacement parts won’t work. You have to go to the performance people who do it right.
 

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Make sure you maintain the correct torque spec on all wheel lugs. You have to check this every time anyone rotates the tires. Whether its NTB, Discount Tire, dealership or your uncle servicing the vehicle the torque spec never seems to be correct or match across all lugs and wheels. Trust me on this. I had all of these problems you guys described above but once I started to re-torque to spec I have never had one issue with Honda rotors on our last few cars. We always get at least 60k-80k on each set of pads, never having to change out the rotors.
Interesting idea in the torque. I had a set of drilled rotors installed about 5 months ago thinking this would cure the warped issue as I have changed out those things once per year. Same issue again shaking as before. I’m done spending thousands on this issue and Honda sure blew this one. My mechanic told me to be easy on the brakes and I asked him if he ever drove a Pilot. These SUV suck for braking distance and I’ve never had any other issues with the dozen or so cars I’ve owned.
 

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Apparently warped rotors are a myth, well the metal doesn't actually warp but instead uneven pad deposits build up on the rotor surface causing the pulsation and vibration that we don't like.
Pad transfer is real, and does cause the same symptoms as warped rotors. However warped rotors is not a myth. It can be measured with a dial indicator and be seen when turning when turning them on a lathe.
 
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