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Discussion Starter #1
Did a quick scan and could not find, so I suspect my search terms might be bad. Have also done some searching on Google and haven't found anything useful yet.

I have a 2012 EX-L with aftermarket tow harness (that is currently disconnected) and the VSA (Stability Control) light on the IP is on and stays on from start. Pressing the VSA button on the left of the steering wheel does nothing. It has been on for at least the past 10 months, every time I drive.

Have had this at the dealership and they have no idea and have already charged a $125 diag fee with zero results. At first they thought it was my tow wiring (CURT), so I unplugged it (about 2 months ago) and the light is still on. It has been weeks since it was unplugged. Light was never on before and I had the same tow wiring on there for the past 18 months. Do not recall anything happening that preceded this problem.

As stated, car has been in and even did a software update for other issue (CEL light intermittently came on due to EGR issues) and that is now fixed. No other lights on, not even intermittently.

Ideas? Anyone experienced this?

Thanks!
 

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For one , I would never pay a dionostic fee without a diagnosis. It could be a wheel speed sensor failure for starts , when was the last time you changed your oil ? I do not know the location but on older pilots the screen on the solenoid would get dirty from extended oil change intervals. At work so I can’t search to much on the location right now. But again , if that shop charged you then they should have the proper computer and have some insight. If they don’t id DEMAND my money back since they so not know what they’re doing
 

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Their diagnostics should identify the faulty sensor or reading while you drive the car. For your situation there should be a stored fault code in the system alerting them where to look. If they can't communicate with the controller (module or canbus comm failure) there are specific error codes for each of those too. VSA has several components shared with ABS like wheel speed sensors. There's a yaw sensor and others that monitor steering angle and the brake pedal switches.

Do your brake lights work OK, or have you swapped in LED bulbs in any of the brake light positions? Diagnosing by throwing parts at the car is way too spendy IMHO.

Since you've already paid for the diagnostics, give them another go at it with the full HDS analyzer connected. Let them know that you need the actual diagnosis or your money back, so you can take it to a better dealer service dept who can do the promised work. Were it me...
 

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OP: I have a 2012 Touring have the same exact problem as you, my started few days ago out of no where. Pressing the VSA button doesn't do anything, checked all VSA fuses and they all look good. I am thinking to replace the switch for $17 see if that does anything. Anyone else possibly having the same issue can share your experience and fixes?
Also, anyone know if I can pass smog with the VSA being off? Thanks in advance guys!
 

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I find it hard to believe the dealer couldn't find anything. The entire reason the VSA lamp is illuminated is because there is a fault stored in the VSA system and that the system is disabled because of it.

My best armchair mechanic guess is that you have a bad wheel speed sensor somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I forgot to add that the dealership suggested that there were no codes stored and no other lights on the IP are showing. I will be contacting the same dealership and demanding this gets fixed as stability is one of the reasons I got this vehicle, and with Winter coming soon, I'll want to have that fixed. I wanted also to say that if the wheel sensors were bad, I'd expect that to affect the ABS, and would cause a fault and the ABS light to turn on, so I am now imagining the yaw sensor as being a part of the problem maybe?

I did read just recently that as part of the stability control that the engine cuts power when stability is lost or that brakes are applied to regain stability in some systems. Do we know what the system is supposed to do in the Gen 2 Pilots? As far as I know, I am not having any problem with either.

I will keep everyone posted as I will likely schedule time in next week at the dealership.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Seriously doubt the switch replacement will work. The dealership tried to jump the wires on the switch to confirm that was not it. I suspect it is a systemic issue likely something like the yaw sensor or computer. Thank goodness I have extended warranty.
 

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The switch is a very unlikely cause. The system defaults to VSA active on every start, then reads the switch (button) to turn it off. Unplug the switch before starting the car to see if that's resetting VSA mode. Regardless, the VSA active indicator in the display would normally not appear if VSA system is reset by the switch.

HDS should be showing the current -cause- of the VSA-active display even without stored fault codes from the controller. It reads a slew of signals from other controllers for throttle pedal position, brake pedal position and system pressures, steering angle, the previously-mentioned yaw sensor, the wheel-speed sensors and the transmission mode, and plenty more.

Some basic questions: what was recently worked on, what kind of driving, impacts with anything including a pothole or curb, battery run-down, disconnect or replacement, fuses replaced, jump-start. Trust but verify that stupid-simple stuff like a blown fuse isn't contributing. Try disconnecting the battery for a hour then reconnecting it -- You'll get to restore the security modes in the entertainment and NAV stacks, but soft faults will be forgotten.
 

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Thanks Dr Bob for your details!
You are 100 % correct on replacing the switch, I did that yesterday and nothing change. Light still there and switch still not responding. Looks like I have to pay a visit to the dealer. Was hoping something simple that I can fixed my self. Funny thing is, my light came on after it comes back from a glass repair shop but I doubt that's related. Anything else you can think of I can try? Rechecked all fuses and all seems ok, don't know what else to look for.
 

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Also I did disconnected battery for approx 30 min but that didn't help. I am going to try unplug the switch before starting as you advised and see what happen.
 

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What was the glass shop doing to the car? Particularly, did they run the battery down with doors open/interior lights on, then jump-start it to get it out of the work area? Ask carefully.
 

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They replaced the front windshield, they didn't mentioned anything to the car being jumped and battery went dead but I doubt they will even if it happened. But It was fine before I dropped off. You think I should go back to the shop and ask? I don't think they will admit anything even if something did happen. Sucks....now I have to pay 150 at dealer and hoping they will find the issue.
 

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I'm head-scratching, trying to think of anything related to working on the windshield that might disable VSA, --and not set a sensor fault code-- that HDS would otherwise detect.

Is windshield replacement accident- or other impact-related?


May have time to do a little more research tomorrow, but there isn't much to go on without at least the HDS diagnosis from VSA.
 

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It a normal windshield replacement from rock chip. I just can't think of that's related but it happen right after. It drive me nuts.....Thanks for your time checking this out!
 

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Only thing did happen is that I ran over a big chunk of blow out tire on the freeway. Not sure if that screwed up something.
 

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"VSA Off" light is on

Only thing did happen is that I ran over a big chunk of blow out tire on the freeway. Not sure if that screwed up something.


Check all the wheel speed sensor connections. A big chunk of steel belted infused rubber can do quite a bit of damage, I.e. cutting wires, connectors, etc
 

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OP, GT: While a damaged sensor cable will cause the failure light, it also sets a code in the controller that the diagnostic system will be able to recover. The report that there are no codes set is the most interesting part of the discussion. Regardless of the internal diagnostic concerns, inspecting for physical damage is always an excellent way to find stuff. The sensors themselves are well buried and protected, but the connecting cables are exposed as they route from the sensors up the suspension.
 

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Hey guys, thanks for all the input!!
Finally got it fixed from dealer, they pulled the code and found it was lost power at some point and cause the system to crash. They recalibrated system and it's all good, glad it didn't cost me a fortune.
 
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