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Discussion Starter #1
2011 pilot with 97k, but issue has been ongoing since ~80k. Best way I can describe it is the car shakes when braking. I wouldn't call it a vibration, more of a shake/shimmy that seems to involve the entire frame (not just steering wheel). Totally fine otherwise, even at high speeds. I initially thought it was rotors, so I pulled the front rotors, had them resurfaced, and put a brand new pair of pads on the front. It has been ~3 months and problem persists.

Now I'm considering pulling the rear rotors and having them resurfaced, with new pads. But I'm not too familiar with rear rotor warping causing this type of presentation. Wondering what y'alls thoughts are.
 

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Is there a chance one of the front caliper isn't clamping on the rotor with the same force as the other ? Did you check the calipers for free movement?
 

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Have you looked at your compliance bushings?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Calipers seemed to be mobile when I did the front brakes/rotors job; cannot comment on rears.

Compliance bushings were replaced at Honda dealership earlier this year (I was having steering vibration with acceleration, which has since resolved).
 

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Rear rotors can suffer from uneven pad deposition (commonly mistaken as warped) like front rotors, and and transfer vibration during braking to the entire vehicle. That's where I would start. Beyond that, I'd look at inner tie rods, if they are worn badly and have a lot of slop they can introduce vibrations during braking.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Noted. I should also mention that the effects I've described are notably worse when the car is full (6-7 passengers) vs when I'm driving alone. Not sure if that points to brake etiology, or otherwise.
 

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This is actually the favorite feature of my 03. What you need to do is take a plastic bag, add seasonings, flour, and chicken. Then Shake and Brake for dinner!
 

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Sometimes. Jack up the front and check for play. Its hard to do with the weight of the vehicle on the tires. Check with hands at 9 and 3 for tie rod play. 12 and 6 for wheel bearing play. Don't wait for the tire wear to tell you theres a problem.
 

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If it were tie rods, wouldn't I expect some looseness in steering, uneven tire wear, or signs of misalignment?
In my case I had significant vibration and steering wasn't noticeably loose and tires weren't worn uneven as I didn't drive long before servicing. After tie rod replacement steering was much more direct and responsive although prior I didn't feel that the steering was abnormally loose.
 

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This might help someone too.
ChrisFix: How to Tell if Your Tie Rod is Bad

I suspect my inner tie rod is bad too but it might be rotor(s) but it doesn't always vibrate when braking. Just braking just the right amount and it's Rodeo Time! Also I replaced my compliance bushings last year trying to chase this one down. Also re-balanced wheels and eventually bought new wheels and tires. I needed them anyway as the wheels were corroded and not holding air due to bead sealing issues and tire were worn.
 

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So i learned something about resurfacing rotors...the difference between on the car and off the car. It sounds to be true, but if you resurface on the car, it eliminates runout issues with the rotor because it cuts it in the plane of the hub, vs. taking off the car and doing so. Doesn't sound like this is the issue with yours, but something to know in the future may help rule out the rotor as an issue

i've been chasing vibration issues on a 2011 pilot with 85000 miles for 3 months now. I had the wheel shimmy, tho not when braking. it would just randomly, slightly, shimmy. after replaicng inner/outer tie rods, no more shimmy. did it myself, not too expensive, but you have to get alignment.

compliance bushings on mine were replaced as part of this also, but that fixed vibration under acceleration, not shimmy

hopefully you dont get the nice surpise I did when I removed my inner tie rod boot and see PS fluid coating in there (bad steering rack, quoted $1900 - $2400 at honda dealer for reman unit, 8 hours of labor)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just wanted to post an update. I spent my Saturday taking off both rear rotors and having them resurfaced (stock rotors) at O' Riley ($15/rotor), and installing a new set of Raybestos Hybrid3 pads ($30 shipped from RockAuto). Took care of the problem completely. Braking is butter smooth now.

So just a heads up - if you're experiencing issues similar to what I described above, don't focus entirely on the front brakes and rotors, certainly consider the rears. And as with all things, n=1.
 

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I had my pads replaced and rotors machined. This combined with changing struts has made the Pilot drive as smooth as I can imagine from a car 10+ years old with 141,000 miles.

Going to change the rear shocks and I think I'll have an essentially like-new Pilot again.
 

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Just wanted to post an update. I spent my Saturday taking off both rear rotors and having them resurfaced (stock rotors) at O' Riley ($15/rotor), and installing a new set of Raybestos Hybrid3 pads ($30 shipped from RockAuto). Took care of the problem completely. Braking is butter smooth now.

So just a heads up - if you're experiencing issues similar to what I described above, don't focus entirely on the front brakes and rotors, certainly consider the rears. And as with all things, n=1.

Damn... I would have lost a bet.

I wouldn't have guessed rear rotors, thank you for the update.

Only question is resurfacing the rotors worth the time and energy? I think new rotors can be bought for under $20 for economy versions.

My thought process is if I spend an hour in the garage pulling tires and the caliper off, I'd just put a new rotor on. I dunno, I'm in Florida... so im used to careless drivers, Disney tourists and rain, lots of rain.
 

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Only question is resurfacing the rotors worth the time and energy? I think new rotors can be bought for under $20 for economy versions
Back in the day I knew where to get rotors turned but today that service is getting tougher to find. New rotors should eliminate any variables and gets the job done faster.
 

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Back in the day I knew where to get rotors turned but today that service is getting tougher to find. New rotors should eliminate any variables and gets the job done faster.
Yes, and I highly recommend the coated ones that prvent rust. As rotors age and rust they become warped and unbalanced = vibration.
 

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Had the same issue for 3 years. 3 months after the car was purchased had steering shaking. Dealer was no help!!! Took it to multiple mechanic and only one came with a solution that actually solved the issue. All front rotors were replaced, Brake pads too and performed alignment. Since no issues
 
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