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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For all of you out there who've had experience and/or understand the underlying way these devices work, please let the rest of us buying used Pilots know your preference and why you like your choice. It will be a big help for those of us buried in years of posts. Feel free to post a head-to-head comparison and any data you've collected.

And please add any device I've left off. I've only included devices whose providers I've contacted and know are legitimate.
 

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I recently purchased the VCM Tuner II. I have no experience with any of the other products.

I went with this one because it was basically set it and forget it. Just plug it in, power it up, and never worry about it again.
 

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S-VCM (install video)
VCMTuner II (install video)
VCMuzzler II (install video)

I'll do my best to summarize.

VCMuzzler. (discontinued). The original device which used resistors. 1 minute install, no power wire.
VCMuzzler II. $81 plus shipping. Upgraded version of the original that comes with replaceable resistors to make adjustments. 1 minute install, no power wire.
VCMTuner. $80 plus shipping. A resistor based solution that has is easily adjustable. Can tweak it in seconds if necessary. 1 minute install, no power wire.
VCMTuner II. $120 plus shipping. The most advanced solution available in my opinion. Uses electronics to adjust output, has safety functions for under/over temp, allows a remote switch disable, supports TPS idle relearn with no actions, a little longer install due to mounting and connection of one fused wire to 12V+ (battery) to provide power to the unit. 1 year warranty.
S-VCM. $95 plus shipping. Electronic output, overheat protection. Simple to install, but you need to connect one fused wire to 12V+ (battery) to provide power to the unit. 1 year warranty.


In my opinion, ALL of these are good solutions. I recommend VCMTunerII or S-VCM, as both of these have similar installs, but are hands off on ever adjusting the resistor, and because they show a real temperature to the ECM in an overheat situation. The VCMTuner2 costs more because it is more advanced and has more options. Both are fantastic. If I bought another one, I'd have a hard time picking between these two, but I'd probably buy the VCMTuner2.
 

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I got VCM Tuner II as it appeared to be the more 'intelligent' solution. A simple resistor just pushes temp down by a set amount, meaning if engine gets hotter, I might see VCM kick in anyway, and then I have to wonder if I should swap in a larger resistor or if my engine is indeed running too hot. And the last thing I wanna do on a hot summer day is to reach down next to the engine to pop in another resistor, and then always having to remember that my temp gauge is showing a lowered reading. Tuner II supposedly keeps the temp reading down without having to swap anything, but will disable if things really get too hot. Plus, the green wire on Tuner II can be grounded to disable it. Means I can connect it to ground via a conveniently located switch, and shut it off before handing the car in for service.
 

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Upgraded to the S-VCM i didnt need all the fancy crap just make it work kinda deal . originally had a device similar to the VCMtuner before they hit the market.

Ok so I had this since the first day i purchased my 2015 ..coming up to 95k on the origional plugs ..they were NOT oil foul in any way..they were worn and carbonized but NO oil traces. So this crap does work hopefully i can keep my engine running strong for years to come.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Upgraded to the S-VCM i didnt need all the fancy crap just make it work kinda deal . originally had a device similar to the VCMtuner before they hit the market.

Ok so I had this since the first day i purchased my 2015 ..coming up to 95k on the origional plugs ..they were NOT oil foul in any way..they were worn and carbonized but NO oil traces. So this crap does work hopefully i can keep my engine running strong for years to come.
@Tahoefever
Just to ensure I have this right: You installed the S-VCM on your 2015, not the VCMTuner II -- right?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I got VCM Tuner II as it appeared to be the more 'intelligent' solution. A simple resistor just pushes temp down by a set amount, meaning if engine gets hotter, I might see VCM kick in anyway, and then I have to wonder if I should swap in a larger resistor or if my engine is indeed running too hot. And the last thing I wanna do on a hot summer day is to reach down next to the engine to pop in another resistor, and then always having to remember that my temp gauge is showing a lowered reading. Tuner II supposedly keeps the temp reading down without having to swap anything, but will disable if things really get too hot. Plus, the green wire on Tuner II can be grounded to disable it. Means I can connect it to ground via a conveniently located switch, and shut it off before handing the car in for service.
@scorrpio -- I put a VCMTuner on my replacement engine in my Odyssey (yes... the &^#@ VCM killed my factory-installed engine) and it ran well with only very rare seasonal adjustment. The van is gone and I've got a 2015 Pilot (had it 15 days). Since it was within 12k miles of 100k, I had the timing belt service and had them change the plugs; gave us a baseline. The plugs don't look oil-burnt but I'm having another mechanic take a look-see to be sure (and before they oxidize).
If I won't fall into the engine compartment (I'm height challenged) I might do the VCM killer installation myself. I too came to worry about true temps on the Pilot (never came close on the van) but I can't complain about any experiences with the original VCM Tuner.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I recently purchased the VCM Tuner II. I have no experience with any of the other products.

I went with this one because it was basically set it and forget it. Just plug it in, power it up, and never worry about it again.
@boom -- Thanks for the detailed info.
 

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If you are deciding between S-VCM and VCMTuner 2, keep in mind that shipping costs and lead time can differ. With shipping included, S-VCM was $110 and VCMTuner 2 was $125 when I last checked, so only a $15 net difference.
 

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@scorrpio -- I put a VCMTuner on my replacement engine in my Odyssey (yes... the &^#@ VCM killed my factory-installed engine) and it ran well with only very rare seasonal adjustment.
Just to re-iterate - I went with VCM Tuner II, which appears to be very similar to S-VCM in functionality (microprocessor-controlled, no adjustment needed) But I liked the ability to easily disable the Tuner II without having to take it out.
 

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So I have 140k on 2012. I changed plugs at 105k and honestly they looked nearly new. I think I could have put them back and run for years. I already had some new ones purchased so put them in.

So I’m wondering how much good turning off VCM really does. <preparing for replies of doom>. :)
 

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So I have 140k on 2012. I changed plugs at 105k and honestly they looked nearly new. I think I could have put them back and run for years. I already had some new ones purchased so put them in.

So I’m wondering how much good turning off VCM really does. <preparing for replies of doom>. :)
It depends on how bad yours is impacted, driving styles, and luck. Without question, VCM damages all engines, and increases potential oil consumption. The rings had to be redesigned to deal with this defect (hence the class action and extended warranty) The severity of which seems to range wildly among owners. Some people don't even make it to 50,000 miles before their spark plugs are throwing misfire codes. Mine looked OK at 100k miles but absolutely had cracked insulators, and showed oil fouling on plugs 1-4, even though I never threw a misfire code nor noticed much oil consumption.

For people who wish to reduce the risk, $100 VCM disable is cheap insurance to increase longevity. The real question to me is.... "why would you NOT do this?" For the price of one full synthetic oil change, you remove all the risks involved.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It depends on how bad yours is impacted, driving styles, and luck. Without question, VCM damages all engines, and increases potential oil consumption. The rings had to be redesigned to deal with this defect (hence the class action and extended warranty) The severity of which seems to range wildly among owners. Some people don't even make it to 50,000 miles before their spark plugs are throwing misfire codes. Mine looked OK at 100k miles but absolutely had cracked insulators, and showed oil fouling on plugs 1-4, even though I never threw a misfire code nor noticed much oil consumption.

For people who wish to reduce the risk, $100 VCM disable is cheap insurance to increase longevity. The real question to me is.... "why would you NOT do this?" For the price of one full synthetic oil change, you remove all the risks involved.
@mmmmark
As an Odyssey owner who blew an engine because of a problem Honda doesn't discuss -- as in THE *@$+^# VCM, I'm in complete agreement with @boom -- it's $100US vs. $5k-8k for an engine and anything else the dead engine takes out. I was DRIVING near highway speeds when a cylinder died. It's only when I screamed at Honda that 140k engines don't throw cylinders that I did my homework (I had a second no-VCM Odyssey to compare it to).
Devices like the Muzzler and the Tuner make it safe to buy certain years of used Ridgelines, Pilots, Odysseys and Accords. Got my 2015 used in a state with a 30-day no-questions-asked return law. Drove straight to my mechanic to check plugs etc. Then drove home, checked with Pilot owners here to be sure I understood then bought my $100 insurance policy so I actually get 300k-400k on my Pilot.
 

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Any one experience or know of any negative impacts with installing any of these? I'm leaning towards SVCM or Tunner II.
 

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Any one experience or know of any negative impacts with installing any of these? I'm leaning towards SVCM or Tunner II.
Only negative impact should be fuel economy because that was the whole point of VCM. That will be consistent regardless of the VCM disabling device you use. From what I've read in various threads of users sharing their experiences, you might see a 1mpg decrease if you've been tracking fuel economy closely. If fuel economy is a huge deal to you, then you could install the VCM Tuner II with a kill switch in the cabin if you want the fuel economy benefits on longer trips. A kill switch might be possible with S-VCM also; however, I only know about the VCM Tuner II install options since that's what I put in. I didn't bother with a kill switch as we don't monitor fuel economy closely and were more concerned with the negative aspects of VCM engaging.

There is also the possibility of battery drain while the engine is off since these 'smart' devices are connected directly to the battery, but that is unlikely given the very low draw. You could explore switched wiring options if that's a concern for you.

You should follow the install instructions closely to avoid any engine codes and also be careful in handling the wires, especially your existing ECT1 sensor plug. Old wiring could be brittle so handle with care. Also, make sure after install that the wiring is not too close to the engine block or coolant hose to avoid additional stress on wiring as a precaution. I would use also a OBD2 scanner to check the reported ECT temp so ensure the product is working, including any features like the auto diagnostic/idle learn.
 

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At the end of the day I'm more concerned about the longevity of keeping the engine in service more than fuel economy ..if that was case i would have bought a Prius.
 
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Only negative impact should be fuel economy because that was the whole point of VCM. That will be consistent regardless of the VCM disabling device you use. From what I've read in various threads of users sharing their experiences, you might see a 1mpg decrease if you've been tracking fuel economy closely. If fuel economy is a huge deal to you, then you could install the VCM Tuner II with a kill switch in the cabin if you want the fuel economy benefits on longer trips. A kill switch might be possible with S-VCM also; however, I only know about the VCM Tuner II install options since that's what I put in. I didn't bother with a kill switch as we don't monitor fuel economy closely and were more concerned with the negative aspects of VCM engaging.

There is also the possibility of battery drain while the engine is off since these 'smart' devices are connected directly to the battery, but that is unlikely given the very low draw. You could explore switched wiring options if that's a concern for you.

You should follow the install instructions closely to avoid any engine codes and also be careful in handling the wires, especially your existing ECT1 sensor plug. Old wiring could be brittle so handle with care. Also, make sure after install that the wiring is not too close to the engine block or coolant hose to avoid additional stress on wiring as a precaution. I would use also a OBD2 scanner to check the reported ECT temp so ensure the product is working, including any features like the auto diagnostic/idle learn.
Thanks for the informative reply. Any long term impacts in using a deactivation device? I searched but couldn't find any thing. The resistor type devices have been out for some time so would assume most of those consumers would have a decent amount of miles of experience. Does it make sense to start a thread along the lines of device type, Miles and related issues?
 

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Thanks for the informative reply. Any long term impacts in using a deactivation device? I searched but couldn't find any thing. The resistor type devices have been out for some time so would assume most of those consumers would have a decent amount of miles of experience. Does it make sense to start a thread along the lines of device type, Miles and related issues?
No long term negative impacts that I am aware of. I think your assumption is correct that there are plenty of miles and time under the belt of these devices. If you look at other websites for the Odyssey, Accord and Acura models with VCM, you will see many more threads on the same subject with more data points to give you comfort. I don't think there is much value to limiting a thread to a particular device as they all do the same thing when working. The comparison threads (like this one) for these devices already focus on how each works and the pros/cons of each.

Remember that the engine is designed to run without VCM engaging - it's not like Honda designed VCM to increase engine longevity. They and other car makers are under immense pressure to increase fuel economy so they often make choices that save fuel but compromise other components rather than leaving the choice to consumers. Engine idle stop/start seems to be the most recent example.
 
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