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OK, if you're looking at it like that, OK.

And I edited my post to include both my Gen 1, and Gen 2- with and without the VCM, using a SVCM product.
Should I say and is it accurate that: On 3rd gen pilots with an ECO button, when the ECO light is on, it only means an economy mode is enabled that has nothing to do with VCM.?
 

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2008 Piot SE FWD, 2015 Pilot LX 4WD. 2005 GSX-R1000
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Should I say and is it accurate that: On 3rd gen pilots with an ECO button, when the ECO light is on, it only means an economy mode is enabled that has nothing to do with VCM.?
As Clint Eastwood would say:

'I reckon so'

But certainly, I've heard on the Gen 3's they even have a button, when pressed it neuters the engine with a different fuel map.
 

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As Clint Eastwood would say:

'I reckon so'

But certainly, I've heard on the Gen 3's they even have a button, when pressed it neuters the engine with a different fuel map.
The way it's described here in threads on the topic is that you have to push down further or harder on the accelerator pedal to go the same as before. So it doesn't really save gas because ... yep, people just puxh further down and harder on the accelerator pedal to get the acceleration they used to. <chuckle> I think I'll leave it alone since it doesn't have anything to do with VCM as far as I can tell, so nuttin' to do with VCM disablers either. 3rd Gen has it's own unique issues... although VCM disablers should help the TC shortage.
 

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Hi @verbatim, I am purchasing a 2015 Pilot with 86k on Monday and after reading much of this thread I would like to install your VCMuzzler. Could you please PM me with the proper model/information I need for my year/gen?

Thanks!

(Updating from an '05 CRV that has >222k now, of which I did 215k - really excited for the new ride!!)
 

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Hi @verbatim, I am purchasing a 2015 Pilot with 86k on Monday and after reading much of this thread I would like to install your VCMuzzler. Could you please PM me with the proper model/information I need for my year/gen?

Thanks!

(Updating from an '05 CRV that has >222k now, of which I did 215k - really excited for the new ride!!)
I would recommend that what is purchased doesn't require changing resistors out manually.
 

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I would recommend that what is purchased doesn't require changing resistors out manually.
Thanks for your reply. Can you be more specific about what that means? So I should purchase an option that changes resistors.. automatically? Or doesn't require changing resistors at all?

Also, why do you recommend this?
 

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Google VCMTuner.com and SVCM.com. Two different manufacturers making fully automatic VCM disablers.
 

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Thanks for your reply. Can you be more specific about what that means? So I should purchase an option that changes resistors.. automatically? Or doesn't require changing resistors at all?

Also, why do you recommend this?
What @PLT383 said. 😁👍
 

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When all else fails Buy 4 Runner :)
 

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Solved!!!

Okay folks, my apologies for the delay, a bit busy lately and took some time off to fly to L.A., watch an awesome King's Hawks game. I've turned by thoughts back to this problem and done some more testing and I have the solution to your problems.

After spending a lot of time thinking about how I was going to do everything I posted in the OP above, I realized that it would be too complicated for most to implement and too hard to strip out when required, so I concentrated on simplifying and came up with a brilliant, but ridiculously obvious and simpler idea.

Rather than create a separate circuit that I would switch to when the engine is close to operating temperature, I spent some time using my OBD tool, determining the extra resistance needed in the ECT circuit to drop the temperature at the high end from 172-175 degrees F down to 162-165. The beauty of this new method is the following:

1. Pure plug and play solution, no switches necessary.
2. Temp gauge still works and shows engine temperature, the only difference is that it reads about half a mark less at operating temperature.
3. Warnings will still occur if the engine overheats.
4. The ECT sensor works on a logarithmic scale, which means that at colder engine temperatures, the temperature shift becomes virtually nothing as far as the PCM is concerned, so cold engine operation is unchanged.
5. Easy disconnect to revert back to OEM configuration if desired for EPA inspection, work at the dealership, or long trips in nice weather when VCM would be beneficial at high speeds and summer temps.
6. No CEL warnings that masks other warnings that come along.
7. No other systems disabled, like VTM when you pull the pressure sensor

I've been testing this new solution for a few days now and I can tell you with complete honesty that this is the ****! No warning lights, no disabling of VTM or other desirable functions. The vehicle thinks it hasn't quite reached operating temperature, so VCM never kicks in. It drives like it should, no vibration, no hesitations during VCM transitions, it's beautiful. The only thing that happens is that when you plug in or unplug the add-in harness, the PCM reads a shift in the ECT sensor reading and throws a code saying that ECT 1 appears faulty. After about three drives, the PCM is fooled into thinking that the new condition is the norm and the fault clears itself and no more errors.

I have not cut any wiring, I found the OEM female connector and created a harness. The male connector is much harder to get and although I've finally found it, it's going to require me to buy a large quantity of them from overseas. The harness I'm going to create is going to consist of the male and female connector, and the added resistance in between. Harness will consist of OEM male and female Connectors, properly sealed etc along with the resistance, also properly sealed with shrink tubing. The harness will appear OEM.

Because I have to buy large quantities of the male connector, I plan on making and selling the entire harness to everyone that wants one. I'll be setting myself up on ebay with my paypal account to make it easy for everyone to order one. The price will be about $30-35 Canadian (USD 24-28) plus shipping. I'm not sure how long it will take for the connectors to come once I order them, but it shouldn't be more than a month or so from overseas.

I am certain that this isn't having a detrimental effect on the engine or A/F ratios or anything of the sort. The difference is so small that the PCM doesn't even read it as an error once it recognizes the new range on the sensor. It drives like a dream, with no error codes and even though the one connector right now is just wrapped with tape with the wires poking into the female connector, I don't plan on undoing it while I wait for the male connectors to arrive.

For all of you that hate the VCM vibration issues, or just hate the fact that VCM is destroying your engine by fouling plugs, causing vibration, excessive oil consumption and the like, this is definitely for you. I've tried to keep the price reasonable considering the time and effort this is going to take on my part to get the parts, put them together and take orders, ship out etc. I hate the whole concept of VCM as stated in my OP and I'm so excited by these results. Even if a few of you would like to try it once it's available and report back to the others, that would be great. I'm not doing this to make tons of money, I just want to help everyone here.

I'm back to loving my Pilot again and I'm so happy to be VCM free, I hate that ****.

Let me know your feedback and interest in having one made.
Im like to test 1 and show the results
 

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I normally let my product speak for itself, but I have to correct the misinformation provided in the last couple posts.

1. The items pictured are the exact same concept as what I'm selling, however the components used are not at all sealed and will fail over time in an engine compartment environment. All of mine are fully sealed with OEM connectors at every point. The components they are using are naturally going to be cheaper, but you get what you pay for, I'm afraid. One just has to take a single look at that assembled device to know that it doesn't belong in an engine compartment, unless you wrap gobs of tape around it.

2. The items pictured are sold with only 4 resistors, not five like I sell. The resistors they provide, according to the listing are 68, 82, 100 and 120 ohm. This is of course a direct copy from my product (as my device is the original), except they do not provide the 150 ohm, which I do for people that need even more resistance (very rare). So the statement that this device prevents VCM from engaging better than the VCMuzzler is patently false. There is absolutely no way in can, when it's using the exact same resistor values that it copied from my product (less the 150 that I provide). If you were to use the VCMuzzler with the same resistor value that you're using with this device, it would perform the same. Period.

3. Assembling these items requires a special crimping tool to do it properly that nobody will have in their tool box. It is not a normal crimping tool. Even with the right hand tool, it is extremely difficult to ensure that the crimp is solid. I know this from experience, which is why all of my terminals are crimped using factory crimping machines and are guaranteed not to let loose. If a wire or resistor lead pulls out because of bad hand crimping with the wrong tool, you cannot fix it easily. You have to get the terminal back out of the connector, which even with special tools is almost impossible. I do not know how the supplier of that product crimps their connections, but I suspect they are by hand.

4. I am the originator of the device and I also pride myself in providing very good instructions and great customer service before and after the sale. I think my reputation speaks for itself. People will always undercut using cheaper parts (as is the case here) and for various other reasons, i.e. to try to gain market share.

5. My price hasn't gone up in almost 3 years, it has remained the same. The price increases stated in a previous post by someone were because of changes to the product, i.e. going from a single hardwired resistor to the interchangeable sealed five resistor design it currently is. The statement that it has doubled in price for the current offering, which is naturally more expensive than a single hardwired resistor design that it was originally, is completely false.

There are many aspects to providing a product, and the time involved in all steps of design, development, procurement, order processing, production, packaging, shipping and ongoing customer service is something that all needs to be accounted for in the price, not just the price of the components. This is also not a mass produced item, so quantities are low and prices for parts and factory assembly (not hand crimping) costs more.

Obviously, it's a free market and you can choose whichever product you wish, but the claims made that the item pictured does a better job of preventing the ECO light (VCM) is false. There is no way it can when it's a direct copy using inferior connections.


Can someone put me on the right direction to buy one for my 2012 pilot ex-l
I normally let my product speak for itself, but I have to correct the misinformation provided in the last couple posts.

1. The items pictured are the exact same concept as what I'm selling, however the components used are not at all sealed and will fail over time in an engine compartment environment. All of mine are fully sealed with OEM connectors at every point. The components they are using are naturally going to be cheaper, but you get what you pay for, I'm afraid. One just has to take a single look at that assembled device to know that it doesn't belong in an engine compartment, unless you wrap gobs of tape around it.

2. The items pictured are sold with only 4 resistors, not five like I sell. The resistors they provide, according to the listing are 68, 82, 100 and 120 ohm. This is of course a direct copy from my product (as my device is the original), except they do not provide the 150 ohm, which I do for people that need even more resistance (very rare). So the statement that this device prevents VCM from engaging better than the VCMuzzler is patently false. There is absolutely no way in can, when it's using the exact same resistor values that it copied from my product (less the 150 that I provide). If you were to use the VCMuzzler with the same resistor value that you're using with this device, it would perform the same. Period.

3. Assembling these items requires a special crimping tool to do it properly that nobody will have in their tool box. It is not a normal crimping tool. Even with the right hand tool, it is extremely difficult to ensure that the crimp is solid. I know this from experience, which is why all of my terminals are crimped using factory crimping machines and are guaranteed not to let loose. If a wire or resistor lead pulls out because of bad hand crimping with the wrong tool, you cannot fix it easily. You have to get the terminal back out of the connector, which even with special tools is almost impossible. I do not know how the supplier of that product crimps their connections, but I suspect they are by hand.

4. I am the originator of the device and I also pride myself in providing very good instructions and great customer service before and after the sale. I think my reputation speaks for itself. People will always undercut using cheaper parts (as is the case here) and for various other reasons, i.e. to try to gain market share.

5. My price hasn't gone up in almost 3 years, it has remained the same. The price increases stated in a previous post by someone were because of changes to the product, i.e. going from a single hardwired resistor to the interchangeable sealed five resistor design it currently is. The statement that it has doubled in price for the current offering, which is naturally more expensive than a single hardwired resistor design that it was originally, is completely false.

There are many aspects to providing a product, and the time involved in all steps of design, development, procurement, order processing, production, packaging, shipping and ongoing customer service is something that all needs to be accounted for in the price, not just the price of the components. This is also not a mass produced item, so quantities are low and prices for parts and factory assembly (not hand crimping) costs more.

Obviously, it's a free market and you can choose whichever product you wish, but the claims made that the item pictured does a better job of preventing the ECO light (VCM) is false. There is no way it can when it's a direct copy using inferior connections.

Can someone put me and the right direction to buy one for my 2012 pilot I don't mind to pay the money for a well made one
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,393 ·
Can someone put me on the right direction to buy one for my 2012 pilot ex-l



Can someone put me and the right direction to buy one for my 2012 pilot I don't mind to pay the money for a well made one
Pm sent.
 

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Hi Verbatim,

I'm new to the forum. I have a 2013 Pilot with 169,000 miles on it and am insterested in installing a VCMuzzler.

Thank you,

Brendan
 

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Hi Verbatim

I have a 2009 Honda pilot w/ 130,000 miles on it. Please provide which device/information I need for my year/gen? Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,397 ·
Hi Verbatim

I have a 2009 Honda pilot w/ 130,000 miles on it. Please provide which device/information I need for my year/gen? Thank you
PM sent.
 

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I normally let my product speak for itself, but I have to correct the misinformation provided in the last couple posts.

1. The items pictured are the exact same concept as what I'm selling, however the components used are not at all sealed and will fail over time in an engine compartment environment. All of mine are fully sealed with OEM connectors at every point. The components they are using are naturally going to be cheaper, but you get what you pay for, I'm afraid. One just has to take a single look at that assembled device to know that it doesn't belong in an engine compartment, unless you wrap gobs of tape around it.

2. The items pictured are sold with only 4 resistors, not five like I sell. The resistors they provide, according to the listing are 68, 82, 100 and 120 ohm. This is of course a direct copy from my product (as my device is the original), except they do not provide the 150 ohm, which I do for people that need even more resistance (very rare). So the statement that this device prevents VCM from engaging better than the VCMuzzler is patently false. There is absolutely no way in can, when it's using the exact same resistor values that it copied from my product (less the 150 that I provide). If you were to use the VCMuzzler with the same resistor value that you're using with this device, it would perform the same. Period.

3. Assembling these items requires a special crimping tool to do it properly that nobody will have in their tool box. It is not a normal crimping tool. Even with the right hand tool, it is extremely difficult to ensure that the crimp is solid. I know this from experience, which is why all of my terminals are crimped using factory crimping machines and are guaranteed not to let loose. If a wire or resistor lead pulls out because of bad hand crimping with the wrong tool, you cannot fix it easily. You have to get the terminal back out of the connector, which even with special tools is almost impossible. I do not know how the supplier of that product crimps their connections, but I suspect they are by hand.

4. I am the originator of the device and I also pride myself in providing very good instructions and great customer service before and after the sale. I think my reputation speaks for itself. People will always undercut using cheaper parts (as is the case here) and for various other reasons, i.e. to try to gain market share.

5. My price hasn't gone up in almost 3 years, it has remained the same. The price increases stated in a previous post by someone were because of changes to the product, i.e. going from a single hardwired resistor to the interchangeable sealed five resistor design it currently is. The statement that it has doubled in price for the current offering, which is naturally more expensive than a single hardwired resistor design that it was originally, is completely false.

There are many aspects to providing a product, and the time involved in all steps of design, development, procurement, order processing, production, packaging, shipping and ongoing customer service is something that all needs to be accounted for in the price, not just the price of the components. This is also not a mass produced item, so quantities are low and prices for parts and factory assembly (not hand crimping) costs more.

Obviously, it's a free market and you can choose whichever product you wish, but the claims made that the item pictured does a better job of preventing the ECO light (VCM) is false. There is no way it can when it's a direct copy using inferior connections.
New (to me) pilot owner here. Very interested in this. Can you message me?

Thanks in advance
 
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