I don't disagree with you about VCM or cylinder deactivation or what ever you want to call it. I am not a fan either. And that has been one of the biggest reasons that has kept me in my older non VCM Pilot this long. For the supposed gain in MPG's you get I don't think it is worth it. Like I said, I could live with the minor in and out that I have experienced while driving my dad's Oddy that I describe to be like an AC compressor going on and off, but if it was like what you are all describing I would have gotten rid of it by now. I think Ford has it the best run at it with Ecoboast but it hasn't been without its issues either, but still think I would take turbo over cylinder deactivation or start stop. Just my two cents.
VCM disable - a new and better way
relatively new to this forum, but not new to reading the threads here. I have read almost all the posts on the VCM vibration issue and for those that aren't familiar with it, please do a search and do some reading as I don't plan to recap everything.
My opinions and experience are this: I don't like VCM at all. I am one of those that are experiencing vibrations and that's why I came to this forum in the first place. I have always been of the opinion that equipment is meant to be run, and when it's not, bad things happen. Cylinders in an engine are meant to be firing at all times and when they're not, you get oil bypassing, plug fouling, misfiring, vibration, and all the bad things that each of these conditions leads to. Adding active engine mounts and noise cancelling technology is just adding more crap to try and hide a bad condition. It is an initiative to help save 1 mpg and is more of a gimmick to satisfy EPA regulations etc. It's bad for engines as can be seen by all the complaints here and with every automaker that tries this.
My original intent was to try everything people here do to get rid of the vibration, pcm updates, engine mounts, spark plugs, etc etc... then I realized I needed to focus on disabling this B.S. system instead.
I tried disconnecting the rear bank oil pressure switch as is recommended by many. It did indeed disable VCM, however it was accompanied by the CEL indications, DTC's. As well, I live in a cold, snowy, icy climate and when I did this, after a short time of driving, the VTM-4 light came on in the dash and I noticed immediately that I had much less traction. The vehicle became a 2wd vehicle. At every start from a stop on a slippery surface, the front end slid to the side and there was not the usual amount of traction. It was painfully obvious that VTM-4 was also disabled. this was unacceptable to me. I need 4wd and I couldn't live with the CEL codes. If you like a 2WD vehicle and warnings all over your dash, by all means use this method. If you want something better, read on.
As most of you know, VCM doesn't engage until the engine is up to operating temperature. According to my OBD II device, it kicks in at around 167 degrees. This is where I decided to focus my attention. After doing some research on the ECT sensor, I went out and bought a 1K potentiometer. I drove my pilot until it was at operating temp and then I stopped and pulled ECT 1 sensor wire. I put the pot inline with the sensor, then started the engine and using the OBD II reader, I dialed the pot until the engine temp read 165 degrees. I went for a test drive and there were no CEL lights and the VCM never engaged. It was heavenly to drive the vehicle with VTM working, no CEL codes, and no VCM. It was how this vehicle should drive.
Now know what some of you are thinking. What if the engine overheats? I'll never know. Well, my plan is this. I'm going to install a switch and an aftermarket digital coolant gauge with audible alarm. So, what I'll do is run the vehicle up to operating temperature in the normal position so that if the engine needs the ECT reading to adjust anything, it can. then \I'll flick the switch and VCM will be off and the potentiometer will be sending a signal that the engine is at 165F to the PCM. that's less than ten degrees below operating temp and shouldn't cause any problems. I certainly didn't see any when I was driving. I also will have the aftermarket sensor monitoring engine temp, and giving an alarm if it overheats.
The only thing I'm unsure of at this point is whether the radiator fans will come on in hot weather as usual. I believe they will because I'm pretty sure they use ECT 2 as the input for this. I'll find out I guess.
I plan on making it look like a very professional installation, using one of the blank spots next to the DTS switch to install my switch. Not sure exactly where the aftermarket gauge will go yet. I've ordered the OEM female connector to make a harness so that I don't have to cut any wires and I can put it back to original with no evidence. The male half of the connector is going to be a bit more difficult as it isn't sold individually and so I'm going to try to hack apart an IAT sensor to make one.
For those that are interested in this, I will post updates of my progress with pictures. I just thought I'd share what I found so far.
Cheers,
My opinions and experience are this: I don't like VCM at all. I am one of those that are experiencing vibrations and that's why I came to this forum in the first place. I have always been of the opinion that equipment is meant to be run, and when it's not, bad things happen. Cylinders in an engine are meant to be firing at all times and when they're not, you get oil bypassing, plug fouling, misfiring, vibration, and all the bad things that each of these conditions leads to. Adding active engine mounts and noise cancelling technology is just adding more crap to try and hide a bad condition. It is an initiative to help save 1 mpg and is more of a gimmick to satisfy EPA regulations etc. It's bad for engines as can be seen by all the complaints here and with every automaker that tries this.
My original intent was to try everything people here do to get rid of the vibration, pcm updates, engine mounts, spark plugs, etc etc... then I realized I needed to focus on disabling this B.S. system instead.
I tried disconnecting the rear bank oil pressure switch as is recommended by many. It did indeed disable VCM, however it was accompanied by the CEL indications, DTC's. As well, I live in a cold, snowy, icy climate and when I did this, after a short time of driving, the VTM-4 light came on in the dash and I noticed immediately that I had much less traction. The vehicle became a 2wd vehicle. At every start from a stop on a slippery surface, the front end slid to the side and there was not the usual amount of traction. It was painfully obvious that VTM-4 was also disabled. this was unacceptable to me. I need 4wd and I couldn't live with the CEL codes. If you like a 2WD vehicle and warnings all over your dash, by all means use this method. If you want something better, read on.
As most of you know, VCM doesn't engage until the engine is up to operating temperature. According to my OBD II device, it kicks in at around 167 degrees. This is where I decided to focus my attention. After doing some research on the ECT sensor, I went out and bought a 1K potentiometer. I drove my pilot until it was at operating temp and then I stopped and pulled ECT 1 sensor wire. I put the pot inline with the sensor, then started the engine and using the OBD II reader, I dialed the pot until the engine temp read 165 degrees. I went for a test drive and there were no CEL lights and the VCM never engaged. It was heavenly to drive the vehicle with VTM working, no CEL codes, and no VCM. It was how this vehicle should drive.
Now know what some of you are thinking. What if the engine overheats? I'll never know. Well, my plan is this. I'm going to install a switch and an aftermarket digital coolant gauge with audible alarm. So, what I'll do is run the vehicle up to operating temperature in the normal position so that if the engine needs the ECT reading to adjust anything, it can. then \I'll flick the switch and VCM will be off and the potentiometer will be sending a signal that the engine is at 165F to the PCM. that's less than ten degrees below operating temp and shouldn't cause any problems. I certainly didn't see any when I was driving. I also will have the aftermarket sensor monitoring engine temp, and giving an alarm if it overheats.
The only thing I'm unsure of at this point is whether the radiator fans will come on in hot weather as usual. I believe they will because I'm pretty sure they use ECT 2 as the input for this. I'll find out I guess.
I plan on making it look like a very professional installation, using one of the blank spots next to the DTS switch to install my switch. Not sure exactly where the aftermarket gauge will go yet. I've ordered the OEM female connector to make a harness so that I don't have to cut any wires and I can put it back to original with no evidence. The male half of the connector is going to be a bit more difficult as it isn't sold individually and so I'm going to try to hack apart an IAT sensor to make one.
For those that are interested in this, I will post updates of my progress with pictures. I just thought I'd share what I found so far.
Cheers,
21 - 40 of 1482 Posts
The pot is inline with the sensor. ECT sensors are thermistors, which means just a resistor that varies with temperature. As the coolant temperature increases, the resistance across it decreases. By adding in more resistance inline with the sensor, you're increasing the resistance of the circuit, which makes the PCM think the engine is cooler than it really is.If ECT1 is used for fueling, it may want to go into closed loop right away. Here in Fl this probably isn't a problem.
Is the pot inline with the sensor or is the sensor disconnected and the pot is installed across the sensor leads in the plug?
The resistance I'm using by adjusting the pot is about 40 ohms, but I may have to adjust it once the weather warms up and the engine runs hotter, I'm not sure.
As mentioned, I still need to confirm that fan operation is unaffected, but so far there have been zero issues with doing this other than the initial code I mentioned that has cleared. I'll also be checking my plugs regularly to look for signs of running rich, but I really highly doubt I'll see anything. If anything, my rear bank plugs will look way better than others have reported.
Fwiw, ECT1 does control the fans. While testing different resistance loads, I was able to get both fans to come on because the temp was reading 230.The pot is inline with the sensor. ECT sensors are thermistors, which means just a resistor that varies with temperature. As the coolant temperature increases, the resistance across it decreases. By adding in more resistance inline with the sensor, you're increasing the resistance of the circuit, which makes the PCM think the engine is cooler than it really is.
The resistance I'm using by adjusting the pot is about 40 ohms, but I may have to adjust it once the weather warms up and the engine runs hotter, I'm not sure.
As mentioned, I still need to confirm that fan operation is unaffected, but so far there have been zero issues with doing this other than the initial code I mentioned that has cleared. I'll also be checking my plugs regularly to look for signs of running rich, but I really highly doubt I'll see anything. If anything, my rear bank plugs will look way better than others have reported.
So, I believe both ECT's control the fans The ECT by the thermostat will turn the fans on if the thermostat gets stuck closed and the engine gets hot. The other ECT turns the fans on when the leaving water temp from the radiator is to high.
It looks like you are basically offsetting the ECT reading by 2 - 10d? This would still allow ECT1 to turn on the fans if an over temp condition occurred (but offset of the actual temperature).
I think your resistance value will have to be determined by the fan turn on temp (A/C off). Otherwise ECT1 could go higher than 168 and allow VCM operation. This might be 20d or more.
Thanks for the input I appreciate it. I think the majority of the time ECT 2 will turn on the fans before ECT 1 comes into play but for sure I will have to test this during hotter weather. Maybe I should design the harness to have a replaceable resistor to account for different seasons or climates.
I can't do much to test this for a while yet.
I can't do much to test this for a while yet.
I'm in... When do you think they'll be available?
I'm interested as well. Any guestimate on what this does to your MPG?
This does sound like a good idea but keep this in mind. When the engine cannot reach operating temperature it may cause monitors not to run and pass. This would only be an issue when you need to have your emission test done depending on state. I have a customer with a Saturn and it will not run several monitors due to the thermostat not working properly. The vehicle is currently running about 170 degrees and will not run 02 monitor also will not run egr monitor, cat monitor or evap. This again is not a huge concern as you would just need to return temp sensor back to normal operation a week or so prior to the emission test being performed to allow time for monitors to run. Lastly there is a small chance over time depending on how close you kept the temp that is could set a code for temp not reaching normal operating temp within allotted time. In other words if the pcm does not see operating temp with x amount of time it will set a code. Iirc its P0128. So you may just have to play around with the operating temp. I like the idea and am interested as well. Good luck, I live in St Louis if anyone wants to mess around with it I have scan tool and plenty o tools. Thank you again and I to would love to get rid of this. I did the reflash and it seemed to help a bit but still noticeable.Thank oo
Ok I'll try to keep up with answering all questions. I've been driving with this mod for a week now and I love it. The mpg change I quite frankly haven't been able to determine yet. I live in a cold climate and there were a few colder days the last week and I used the car starter a lot. Also we got a foot of snow on Friday and slogging through that burns up so much gas. also I've been having so much fun driving it that I might be a little heavy on the gas I'll try to drive normal for a tank or two and see how if there has been any change. I doubt it actually since before the mod I was doing a lot of unnecessary acceleration to stay out of ECO mode.
As for the EPA test thing we don't have epa testing here so not an issue for me but it's as simple as unplugging the harness and running it for a while that way is it not? Then take it in to get the inspection.
I would like to test it for a while longer to dial in the optimal resistance value. Might need some help from testers in hot climates. As mentioned before the male end of the harness is hard to get so it'll likely be a month or two before it's ready.
Gotta say that I'm still so happy with how it's operating now. I will do the plug check after a month and post my findings.
As for the EPA test thing we don't have epa testing here so not an issue for me but it's as simple as unplugging the harness and running it for a while that way is it not? Then take it in to get the inspection.
I would like to test it for a while longer to dial in the optimal resistance value. Might need some help from testers in hot climates. As mentioned before the male end of the harness is hard to get so it'll likely be a month or two before it's ready.
Gotta say that I'm still so happy with how it's operating now. I will do the plug check after a month and post my findings.
In 100% agreement with this issue and the only way to make sure there are no future issues is to deactivate cylinder management. But,The reason is I don't like VCM and it's been proven to cause problems both in these vehicles and other manufacturers vehicles. I don't belive it's good for the engine for the reasons many have said already.....
The problem is that custom tuning, disconnecting sensors, storing codes, etc will invalidate the engine warranty. Been there, done that with the GM's V4/8 AFM system which with extended mileage has reported the same oil consumption problems......but not the concurrent (unrelated???) vibration issue, likely because they were not foolish enough to dare a V3 configuration which is inherently unbalanced and produces really bad harmonics which must be addressed.
The Range Tech device plugged into my AFM system gives me all the benefits and flexibility of defeating cylinder deactivation with none of the warranty voiding worries....I'll be one of the first buyers if they come out with one for Honda's VCM system.
I can understand how changing the PCM algorithm to reduce V3 dwell time can reduce vibrations but there is no "magical" balancing by installing a replacement driveshaft if the original was in balance.......when the vehicle was new it was either in balance or it was not.....what I suspect they are doing is using a replacement replacement that is much heavier, the increased mass and inertia of the moving parts in effect creates a defacto flywheel to increase rotational stability and even out/reduce the vibrations. (Until the 60's most vehicles had heavy flywheels on the front of the crank to compensate for vibrations....later with FWDs they removed the heavy flywheels to reduce weight and engine length, resorting to sophisticated engine mounts, counter rotating shafts, tuning fork assemblies, etc. to compensate)
If so, a heavier driveshaft may place additional loading on the driveshaft center bearing and mount, tranny servos and output bearings, rear axle input bearings and other rotational components in the drivetrain and as with many quick fix kludges, it may work in the short term, but there's hell to pay later on.
On another note not all high mileage GM's with AFM, just like all Honda's with VCM develop the fouling problem so there may be other factors coming into play, for example hilly terrain and cold temperatures reduce VCM dwell time. I drove my first Avalanche with the 1st gen 5.3 Al engine which was reported as most prone to AFM fouling way past the mileage where it should have occurred without any problems....discussion with some of the mechanics who dealt with this problem indicated that the commonly encountered oil ring fouling likely had been prevented by my frequent 3K changes of Mobil 1 oil with new filter. Some even referred to their oil change meter system (GM does it in 1% increments opposed to Honda's 10%) as an engine killer the increased oil change intervals being done for competitive reasons to tout reduced maintenance costs and limit the frequency of "free" oil changes. Is every 3K too often?, probably, but it gets recycled so the next guy can get his mystery oil fill from the bulk 55 gal drum where my recycled oil ends up!
The Honda owners manual specifies to retain the original "special" oil until the meter indicates a change......at this rate I would be near 9-10K when I'm due for my first "free" oil/filter change. They can keep their free change, Honda's "magical" oil is getting dumped at 4-5K max. and replaced with Mobil 1 no matter what their stupid meter says and changed every 3K thereafter. Oil consumption problems in GM's AFM system were caused by clogged oil control rings, oil deposits build up and freeze the rings so they can no longer flex, they wear and can no longer squeegee oil from the cylinder wall it gets burned and fouls the plugs. All oil wears and all additives break down with time, heat and shear forces.....the longer in the engine, the worse the degradation of the oil. Changing oil too often can never harm an engine, but not changing it often enough will.
As far as I'm concerned the "engine killer" oil monitor is just another gimmick, just like cylinder deactivation, start/stop and other quick fix kludges to address EPA/NHTSA and other government mandates and "green up" their vehicles as cheaply as possible at the consumers' expense instead of throwing the money into research to come up with a more reliable, less costly system.
Sorry so long, threw and extra penny into my two cents worth opinion.
Yes but I'm not doing anything that isn't easily converted when I take it in for service. The momentary fault that's generated when the resistor is originally placed inlne goes away so I will just say that it went away and I didn't think it was a problem. And my diagnostic tool shows that it is only a stored code, not a permanent code. It is showing zero permanent codes. When I disconnect the battery the stored code clears.
At any rate, whenever i take it in I will take the harness out and revert to stock. They can't void the warranty if it is all stock and everything is working. I'm not worried about that one bit. I'm not twisting anyone's arm. I'm not at all concerned but if you are then go ahead and run VCM all you want. Like you I think it's very bad so I'm doing something about it.
I guarantee this shows less codes than driving continually with the oil switch disconnected and constant warning lights on and VTM-4 disabled. This is what a lot of people are doing
To each their own. I'm not worried about voiding the warranty at all.
I don't believe that honda built in a way to disable VCM Through the OBD port like GM did so don't hold your breath.
I already talked to range technologies and they can't figure out a way. Even in Hondas TSB, they didn't have a way other than unplug the oil pressure switch.
At any rate, whenever i take it in I will take the harness out and revert to stock. They can't void the warranty if it is all stock and everything is working. I'm not worried about that one bit. I'm not twisting anyone's arm. I'm not at all concerned but if you are then go ahead and run VCM all you want. Like you I think it's very bad so I'm doing something about it.
I guarantee this shows less codes than driving continually with the oil switch disconnected and constant warning lights on and VTM-4 disabled. This is what a lot of people are doing
To each their own. I'm not worried about voiding the warranty at all.
I don't believe that honda built in a way to disable VCM Through the OBD port like GM did so don't hold your breath.
I already talked to range technologies and they can't figure out a way. Even in Hondas TSB, they didn't have a way other than unplug the oil pressure switch.
Another update. The weather here is well above freezing today and I've now confirmed that the fans do indeed cycle properly. With the resistor inline the OBD tool was showing an engine temp of 165F and yet the fans were cycling continuously. Still haven't found one detriment to doing this yet.
Ok, another quick update. I've zeroed in on the optimal resistance value. I removed the potentiometer and replaced it with a permanent resistor. Still no issues to report other than VCM free operation. I've also discovered that if I make the switch first thing in the morning when the engine is completely cold, there are no CEL warnings returned at all, so this can be both installed and removed without any warnings appearing on the dash.
I was also able to clear the previous "stored" code by disconnecting the battery. It never stored a "permanent" code when I checked with my diagnostic tool and It appears that if you install this cold, you'll never get a code anyway.
So now, I'm just waiting on the male connectors. The guy from the China supplier got back to me and said give him a week because of the Chinese New Year, so hopefully he gets back to me soon with a quote. I'm likely going to be out a bunch of money on this deal because I'm going to have to order 100 of everything due to their minimum quantities. I'm skeptical that there will be enough interest here to sell enough to make my money back, but that doesn't matter to me, I'm just doing this to help people out.
For those that are interested, I'll keep you posted. Once I have all the parts and I make one up, I'll put a posting on EBAY for it.
I was also able to clear the previous "stored" code by disconnecting the battery. It never stored a "permanent" code when I checked with my diagnostic tool and It appears that if you install this cold, you'll never get a code anyway.
So now, I'm just waiting on the male connectors. The guy from the China supplier got back to me and said give him a week because of the Chinese New Year, so hopefully he gets back to me soon with a quote. I'm likely going to be out a bunch of money on this deal because I'm going to have to order 100 of everything due to their minimum quantities. I'm skeptical that there will be enough interest here to sell enough to make my money back, but that doesn't matter to me, I'm just doing this to help people out.
For those that are interested, I'll keep you posted. Once I have all the parts and I make one up, I'll put a posting on EBAY for it.
I think if this really works as well as what you describe and if it works on other Honda models with VCM, you won't have much problem selling 100 of them. Between just the Odyssey and Pilot forums there are plenty of people who want to do away with VCM. The only question is, will it work reliably on different Hondas and in different climates (i.e. Phoenix vs Miami vs Alaska vs Canadian areas).Ok, another quick update. I've zeroed in on the optimal resistance value. I removed the potentiometer and replaced it with a permanent resistor. Still no issues to report other than VCM free operation. I've also discovered that if I make the switch first thing in the morning when the engine is completely cold, there are no CEL warnings returned at all, so this can be both installed and removed without any warnings appearing on the dash.
I was also able to clear the previous "stored" code by disconnecting the battery. It never stored a "permanent" code when I checked with my diagnostic tool and It appears that if you install this cold, you'll never get a code anyway.
So now, I'm just waiting on the male connectors. The guy from the China supplier got back to me and said give him a week because of the Chinese New Year, so hopefully he gets back to me soon with a quote. I'm likely going to be out a bunch of money on this deal because I'm going to have to order 100 of everything due to their minimum quantities. I'm skeptical that there will be enough interest here to sell enough to make my money back, but that doesn't matter to me, I'm just doing this to help people out.
For those that are interested, I'll keep you posted. Once I have all the parts and I make one up, I'll put a posting on EBAY for it.
You're right, these are unknowns.The only question is, will it work reliably on different Hondas and in different climates (i.e. Phoenix vs Miami vs Alaska vs Canadian areas).
For the climate thing, I was hoping to wait until mid summer when it sometimes gets up to the 90's here. I believe the cooling system is efficient enough to keep the engine at a relatively constant temperature, regardless of the climate. The thermostat is set the same no matter where the vehicle is, so unless the cooling system is unable to keep up at warm climates, it should still work the same. If the cooling system can't keep up, the engine would overheat, no? It would be better if someone could test this for me that lives in a hot climate right now so that I wouldn't have to wait until summer to know for sure.
As far as the makes and models, for sure, another unknown. I believe every Honda with VCM will be programmed to not engage VCM until it's at operating temperature, so I believe the fix will work for most other honda models, but I obviously haven't been able to diagnose the operating temperatures and where VCM kicks in for all those models. If another model uses the same 3.5L engine, I would think it would be the same. For other engines, the best would be to use a diagnostic tool on those and go through the same process I did. The other issue is that the connector to ECT1 may be different than the one I've had to source. It's not a problem getting other connectors, but I'd have to know what they are.
This was already posted on the other VCM thread, but I'm posting here also just for the sake of completeness for this thread. Took my pilot in this morning. I told them about the vibration issue and the groaning noise with the A/C. I gave them the Honda TSB numbers when I brought it in. They just called me back and they already replaced the power steering pump for the groaning noise and they've ordered the propeller shaft for me. All fixed under warranty, no arguments, no questions asked. It couldn't have been more painless.
As I've preached numerous times, I'm not a fan at all of VCM and I did this just to get the updated parts. I'm disabling VCM tomorrow morning again. I only did this so that it doesn't vibrate as much if someone test drives it later down the road when I want to sell it.
Note also that they did not mention any diagnostic codes! My own code reader showed that there were no permanent or stored codes from when I was swapping my harness out, but now this is confirmation that if you do get that code for the first couple drives, (it then goes away), the stored code can be cleared simply by disconnecting the battery like I did. Now that I know to only swap it out when the engine is cold, that's not even an issue anymore. I've swapped it out four times now with the engine completely cold and it returns no errors.
As I've preached numerous times, I'm not a fan at all of VCM and I did this just to get the updated parts. I'm disabling VCM tomorrow morning again. I only did this so that it doesn't vibrate as much if someone test drives it later down the road when I want to sell it.
Note also that they did not mention any diagnostic codes! My own code reader showed that there were no permanent or stored codes from when I was swapping my harness out, but now this is confirmation that if you do get that code for the first couple drives, (it then goes away), the stored code can be cleared simply by disconnecting the battery like I did. Now that I know to only swap it out when the engine is cold, that's not even an issue anymore. I've swapped it out four times now with the engine completely cold and it returns no errors.
verbatim, are you by chance using a scangauge to read the codes and monitor the water temp? Have you tried clearing the code with the reader vs pulling the battery cable? I'm not exactly in a hot climate but I'm going to try out your fix in a few weeks.
Ok, another quick update. I've zeroed in on the optimal resistance value. I removed the potentiometer and replaced it with a permanent resistor. Still no issues to report other than VCM free operation. I've also discovered that if I make the switch first thing in the morning when the engine is completely cold, there are no CEL warnings returned at all, so this can be both installed and removed without any warnings appearing on the dash.
I was also able to clear the previous "stored" code by disconnecting the battery. It never stored a "permanent" code when I checked with my diagnostic tool and It appears that if you install this cold, you'll never get a code anyway.
So now, I'm just waiting on the male connectors. The guy from the China supplier got back to me and said give him a week because of the Chinese New Year, so hopefully he gets back to me soon with a quote. I'm likely going to be out a bunch of money on this deal because I'm going to have to order 100 of everything due to their minimum quantities. I'm skeptical that there will be enough interest here to sell enough to make my money back, but that doesn't matter to me, I'm just doing this to help people out.
For those that are interested, I'll keep you posted. Once I have all the parts and I make one up, I'll put a posting on EBAY for it.
If you're set on periodically disconnecting & reconnecting the VCM system and want to do it remotely without opening the hood. Why not wire in a DPDT switch..... sensor harness leads in the center, wiring to the original sensor on one throw and the fixed resistor on the other? Space on the lower left side for additional switches......could even do a TPDT switch and control a separate LED circuit to indicate when it is connected/disconnected.
Verbatim, I'm digging into the adding the 40 ohm series resistor on ECT1 and have a couple more questions. I don't have the shop manual so please bear with me.
I found a decent source for a female pigtail at: Honda acura IAT ECT Vtec connector plug pigtail civic element fit pilot accord For Sale - DVAutoParts.com
I unplugged the connector at ECT1 and it looks identical to the one shown at that link. I also found some sources from China as you had mentioned but they require a 100-500 minimum order quantity.
For the male connector, like you noted, it's much harder to find. Have you considered getting an ECT1 sensor and dissecting it to remove the series R but leave the internal electrical leads? You could then mount it in a watertight box/tube with it's existing threaded fitting along with the 40 ohm series R and the female connector pigtail hanging out the other side. The side with the flexible pigtail plugs into the existing ECT1 sensor near the EGR valve and the male connector bolted to the box/tube plugs into the existing wire harness. What do ya thinK? How did you prototype the series resistor fix on your vehicle? I'm trying to avoid cutting the factor wiring harness.
I found a decent source for a female pigtail at: Honda acura IAT ECT Vtec connector plug pigtail civic element fit pilot accord For Sale - DVAutoParts.com
I unplugged the connector at ECT1 and it looks identical to the one shown at that link. I also found some sources from China as you had mentioned but they require a 100-500 minimum order quantity.
For the male connector, like you noted, it's much harder to find. Have you considered getting an ECT1 sensor and dissecting it to remove the series R but leave the internal electrical leads? You could then mount it in a watertight box/tube with it's existing threaded fitting along with the 40 ohm series R and the female connector pigtail hanging out the other side. The side with the flexible pigtail plugs into the existing ECT1 sensor near the EGR valve and the male connector bolted to the box/tube plugs into the existing wire harness. What do ya thinK? How did you prototype the series resistor fix on your vehicle? I'm trying to avoid cutting the factor wiring harness.
21 - 40 of 1482 Posts
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