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Anyone with 3rd gen that took a picture before cleaning valves, and maybe description if they ran any cleaners during lifetime.
This is the only other thread of intake pictures I know of.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
This is the only other thread of intake pictures I know of.
I prefer zero carbon on my valves like I'm used to Honda quality achieving. I'm not falling into the "oh that's not so bad" semantics trap. I believe the engine can run better without carbon buildup on the back of the valves.
 
I just want to point out that your repeated references to poor maintenance make no sense whatsoever. GDI engines do not accumulate deposits on valves as a result of poor maintenance. They accumulate deposits on valves due to oil vapor inhalation via the PCV system, and oil seepage from the valve seals.

If Honda engineers designed effective PCV baffling and exceptional valve stem seals, then that's great news for all of us, and hopefully we never have to worry about it, I'd like 200k+ miles trouble-free out of my Pilot!
What? I assumed since you owned "high performance cars" you could figure it out... synthetic blends or conventional oils with extended oil change intervals are what I meant by "poor mainenance". I'm pretty sure I stated that specifically at least once in this thread as well.

As far as the second part of your thread, this is the first Pilot I've seen at a "low" mileage with intake valve buildup and the second overall (I think someone just posted the 300k thread) where the valves had buildup. I'd also like to point out that @Nail Grease did this proactively, not because his Pilot was throwing a code or exhibiting symptoms that this one scope of work remedied.

The photo above speak a 1000s words. I'll rest my case on it.
That's exactly what I've been trying to say! That buildup is really nothing, and if you switched to a quality synthetic and modify your oil change interval, I'm confident you would not see a significant increase unless some of the passages in the PCV are already partially blocked preventing the suspended solids from settling out.
 
I prefer zero carbon on my valves like I'm used to Honda quality achieving. I'm not falling into the "oh that's not so bad" semantics trap. I believe the engine can run better without carbon buildup on the back of the valves.
We are in the age of DI and undersized turbo engines. You will spend your lifetime chasing small amounts of carbon buildup if you think that's a lot.
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
What? I assumed since you owned "high performance cars" you could figure it out... synthetic blends or conventional oils with extended oil change intervals are what I meant by "poor mainenance". I'm pretty sure I stated that specifically at least once in this thread as well.

As far as the second part of your thread, this is the first Pilot I've seen at a "low" mileage with intake valve buildup and the second overall (I think someone just posted the 300k thread) where the valves had buildup. I'd also like to point out that @Nail Grease did this proactively, not because his Pilot was throwing a code or exhibiting symptoms that this one scope of work remedied.



That's exactly what I've been trying to say! That buildup is really nothing, and if you switched to a quality synthetic and modify your oil change interval, I'm confident you would not see a significant increase unless some of the passages in the PCV are already partially blocked preventing the suspended solids from settling out.
I will be checking my PCV.
 
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Discussion starter · #49 ·
We are in the age of DI and undersized turbo engines. You will spend your lifetime chasing small amounts of carbon buildup if you think that's a lot.
I believe where I'm headed with this is to be prepared to clean the valves periodically. I've knocked off the carbon just recently. I will try valve cleaning with sprays, like CRC GDI Cleaner to keep the carbon from building back up.
I no longer have any hesitation upon acceleration from a stop since injector replacement and valve cleaning. I decided not to do a valve adjustment when I saw the dirty valves. The engine runs smooth and quiet.
 
What? I assumed since you owned "high performance cars" you could figure it out... synthetic blends or conventional oils with extended oil change intervals are what I meant by "poor mainenance". I'm pretty sure I stated that specifically at least once in this thread as well.
if you switched to a quality synthetic and modify your oil change interval, I'm confident you would not see a significant increase
Yes you did state it, and what I'm saying is I disagree with you. Carbon buildup on the valve is largely due to leaking past the valve stem and oil inhalation from the PCV system, and oil change intervals aren't going to make much a difference in it, in comparison to running a filter (catch can) on the PCV system to remove the oil vapor.

The reason why the carbon buildup is more prevalent on those BMW's, Lexus's, etc is due to excessive crankcase pressure and oil inhalation during high RPM engine running. Anyone running there car in a "sport" capacity is using full synthetic of whatever variety you want, I personally ran Amsoil, and changing the oil and filter religiously, usually with only a handful of miles on it after track use. If oil change interval and type was a significant factor, they wouldn't have that buildup.
 
oil change intervals aren't going to make much a difference in it
Right, sludge from extended oil change intervals has never adversely impacted an engine, especially the PCV system. Look, I'm trying to give your "high performance cars" background the benefit of the doubt but there's thinking you know and actually knowing. You must be an Engineer, you'll take your wrong opinion to death with you.
 
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Right, sludge from extended oil change intervals has never adversely impacted an engine, especially the PCV system. Look, I'm trying to give your "high performance cars" background the benefit of the doubt but there's thinking you know and actually knowing. You must be an Engineer, you'll take your wrong opinion to death with you.
Of course sludge from extended oil changes can impact an engine, and certainly can clog a PCV valve as well. I'll take your putting words into my mouth and mocking as a sign that you don't know as much as you think you do, and you're going to take your wrong opinion to the death with you.

I'm on here offering up a possible alternative and precaution that some may not even be aware existed, and you're just running your mouth about how it's overkill, and it's apparently getting under your skin that I disagree with you and am not willing to back down because you speak with authority and have a bunch of forum posts
 
I believe that quality oil changed at “urban” or “severe” intervals will help the issue - for example, change your oil when the 15% light comes on, not at 0% - as well as always using top tier fuel. I believe the manual actually specified TTF use. I prefer Costco because they seem to have the most additive per volume for 87.
 
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Of course sludge from extended oil changes can impact an engine, and certainly can clog a PCV valve as well. I'll take your putting words into my mouth and mocking as a sign that you don't know as much as you think you do, and you're going to take your wrong opinion to the death with you.

I'm on here offering up a possible alternative and precaution that some may not even be aware existed, and you're just running your mouth about how it's overkill, and it's apparently getting under your skin that I disagree with you and am not willing to back down because you speak with authority and have a bunch of forum posts
Nah, just trying to keep bringing you guys back from sensationalizing something that is not a concern. As I said before, it doesn't hurt to clean the carbon or install a catch can but it is completely unnecessary until the vehicle actually starts burning oil.

Don't be so sensitive, I'm simply trying to provide facts for readers of this thread to review when they decide what they want to do rather than providing opinions or facts that relate to other engines. The simple fact is the DI J35 does not have a problem with intake valve deposits. One picture, provided by OP, is great but I have not seen any other evidence to support the claim that these engines have an issue with the PCV system. So, to reiterate, adding a PCV valve and cleaning valves for most 3rd gen Pilots is not necessary.
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
I'm no expert, I see what I see and I don't like carbon buildup on valves at any milage. If the carbon buildup ever prevents the valves from sealing, you got an even bigger problem.
I think the majority of people are likely to be late in getting their oil changed than being punctual about it. Throw in the VCM technology on top of old semi synthetic oil changes from the quick lube joint, a stuck PCV, clogged air filter, dirty MAF, cheap untreated gasoline, urban driving habits. Ya.... there's not going to be problems with dirty valves on 3rd gen Honda Pilots. 😏👍
 
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Pretty soon we will all have electric SUV’s so it won’t matter. I wonder who will crack that formula first. A three row EV with 300+ miles of actual range would be excellent.

That’s asking a lot though. You’d need a 150 kW pack (or usable amount) at a 500 Wh/Mile. Even 333 would be aggressive. That would be what, around 90 kWh pack. Expensive.

while I digress, I love the designs with range extenders. A simple motor that generates electricity in a pinch.
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
Pretty soon we will all have electric SUV’s so it won’t matter. I wonder who will crack that formula first. A three row EV with 300+ miles of actual range would be excellent.

That’s asking a lot though. You’d need a 150 kW pack (or usable amount) at a 500 Wh/Mile. Even 333 would be aggressive. That would be what, around 90 kWh pack. Expensive.

while I digress, I love the designs with range extenders. A simple motor that generates electricity in a pinch.
I'm gonna hold out on electric as long as possible, unless the Mrs. says otherwise.
 
this is why most dealerships have a little display sitting on the countertop when you walk in. it is of a valve covered in carbon build-up. they sell an intake cleaning service to help reduce the build-up but it really needs to be done pro-actively. these same services were offered to me from toyota dealers after I purchased a yaris back in 2010.

deposits will form if the valve never gets hot enough to start self-cleaning, the temp at which new deposits will not form and old deposits actually start burn off. ever use the self cleaning function on your oven in the kitchen or blast your propane grill burners on max and watch all the grease from the previous cooking session almost magically disappear only to leave behind a fine dusty coating.

like others have said, nice long extended highway trips are probably very good at helping extend engine life.
I really want to find an endoscope to checkout my Pilot's valves when I do the upper gaskets this summer
 
this is why most dealerships have a little display sitting on the countertop when you walk in. it is of a valve covered in carbon build-up. they sell an intake cleaning service to help reduce the build-up but it really needs to be done pro-actively. these same services were offered to me from toyota dealers after I purchased a yaris back in 2010.

deposits will form if the valve never gets hot enough to start self-cleaning, the temp at which new deposits will not form and old deposits actually start burn off. ever use the self cleaning function on your oven in the kitchen or blast your propane grill burners on max and watch all the grease from the previous cooking session almost magically disappear only to leave behind a fine dusty coating.

like others have said, nice long extended highway trips are probably very good at helping extend engine life.
I really want to find an endoscope to checkout my Pilot's valves when I do the upper gaskets this summer
You've got a 1st gen, port injection should be helping keep any deposits pulled in through the PCV soft and the detergents in the fuel should help keep them from sticking or remove them from the valves. This phenomena in mainstream cars (OK, I know classics could have this problem but they could also burn a quart of oil in 200 miles and still run great) is the product of DI and turbo, downsized engines.
 
You've got a 1st gen, port injection should be helping keep any deposits pulled in through the PCV soft and the detergents in the fuel should help keep them from sticking or remove them from the valves. This phenomena in mainstream cars (OK, I know classics could have this problem but they could also burn a quart of oil in 200 miles and still run great) is the product of DI and turbo, downsized engines.
yes and the auto manufacturers know this and how most people are more likely to crash their car beyond reasonable repair than to see the useful life of the engine come to an end. if they made a product that lasts forever they would put themselves out of business. I do believe if TTF and high quality synthetic oils are used that any engine related problems should be minimized.
 
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