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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
No questions today, just an advice. For me the process of adjusting the valves on my car is new and I had a hard time finding the right numbers for intake and exhaust valves.

For those of you who are missing the sticker under the hood and have J35Z1 engine (I’m not sure about the other engines) here are the numbers:

Intake: 0.22 mm +- 0.02 mm
Exhaust: 0.30 mm +- 0.02 mm

If I was not clear enough I will attach the pic. The reason I’m posting that is because I googled the information and it said .20-.24 mm and a lot of people (including myself) pick .20 feeler gauge because that is the first number. Now I have to redo the whole process because my car started making clicking sounds on high RPM. These numbers will make more sense and I hope you will not make my mistakes.

Good luck adjusting the valves on your car!

P.S. It is worth it, my car feels much more powerful after it.
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I just adjusted my valves last weekend. I set my intakes to 0.009" (0.229mm) and exhaust to 0.012" (0.305mm) because my feeler gages go up in 0.001" increments, so they don't have nice round metric numbers on them. I was hoping I picked the right numbers. But I also figured it couldn't be any worse than it was before I did the adjustment. They were all extremely loose (around 0.012 for intake and 0.014 for exhaust), except for 3 or 4 of them that were way too tight (0.008). I agree that my Pilot also seems much more peppy since the adjustment, but I also replaced the spark plugs and cleaned the EGR passages and intake manifold at the same time, so it's probably a combination of all those things that made the improvement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I just adjusted my valves last weekend. I set my intakes to 0.009" (0.229mm) and exhaust to 0.012" (0.305mm) because my feeler gages go up in 0.001" increments, so they don't have nice round metric numbers on them. I was hoping I picked the right numbers. But I also figured it couldn't be any worse than it was before I did the adjustment. They were all extremely loose (around 0.012 for intake and 0.014 for exhaust), except for 3 or 4 of them that were way too tight (0.008). I agree that my Pilot also seems much more peppy since the adjustment, but I also replaced the spark plugs and cleaned the EGR passages and intake manifold at the same time, so it's probably a combination of all those things that made the improvement.
You did everything fine. It says +- 0.02 mm, so it does not have to be super precise. I, however, picked .20 mm on intake and .28 on exhaust, so now valves open more than they have to and make noise. I do not know how I missed that sticker on my hood, but sometimes it is good to learn from mistakes, especially when you can easily fix them.
 

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Was it a tedious process to adjust the valves ? i'm thinking of doing this this weekend .. any tips or advise would be great :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Was it a tedious process to adjust the valves ? i'm thinking of doing this this weekend .. any tips or advise would be great :)
It looks like a simple process, but I still cannot adjust mine right 😁. There is a video online that shows how to adjust valves on J engines (pilot, odyssey). Make sure you take the numbers from sticker on your hood, not from online. Also the engine has to be cold, I adjusted mine in the morning. I think that feeler gauges that are flexible are better than the hard ones.

And THE MOST important thing: when you tightening the valve covers tighten all the bolts a little at a time or they will break, and make sure that the coil gaskets on the valve cover are in place and not squeezed between the tube and the cover or they will tear and you will have to do the whole process of removing again. Do not rush and you should be good. Good luck!
 

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Did you use the valve adjusting tool for this ? I can't find it anywhere in these parts stores around ....
 

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Did you use the valve adjusting tool for this ? I can't find it anywhere in these parts stores around ....
If you're talking about the tool that's like a combination of a flathead screwdriver and wrench, it's not actually as useful as I thought it would be. It won't work on the very bottom row of valves in the front, or the bottom row on the back, and I found a regular screwdriver and a 10mm box-end wrench to be way more precise and easier to use. I'll mail you my adjustment tool if you want to pay shipping, I'll never need it.
 

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Was it a tedious process to adjust the valves ? i'm thinking of doing this this weekend .. any tips or advise would be great :)
Tedious and you may need to find your inner Cirque-du-soleil spirit to reach the back bank.

A few tips/suggestions:
  • Before you start, make sure you can easily access the crank to set TDC. I removed the passenger tire to make my life a little easier (and you're gonna change the oil filter anyway, so why not). When I need to do it again I'll use my low-profile floor jack to take off both front wheels and lower the front end. I'm 5'10" and needed to stand on a low platform to adjust the valves by the firewall (PIA) - it was fine, but if I had lowered it 6" I would've been more comfortable.
  • Skip the 2-in-1 tool and use a screwdriver and wrench.
  • Have a good supply of gas, carburetor cleaner and/or brake cleaner on hand to clean the valve covers.
  • Get long offset gauges, much easier to use on the rear valves.
  • I put different colored tape on each gauge - red tape for exhaust, blue tape for intake (etc.) - this allowed me to handle a single feeler while adjusting the gap and quickly confirm I had the correct gauge for each valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Did you use the valve adjusting tool for this ? I can't find it anywhere in these parts stores around ....
The only tool that I bought was feeler gauge set, everything else is pretty simple. You can use the special tool for adjusting or just use 10 mm wrench and flat screwdriver.
 

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That's what I'll do ..my valve lash on the pic uder the hood states the same as posted here, most of the feeler gauges i came across ..autozone , advanced auto only carried the ones up to .026 ..amazon at this point ?
 

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That's what I'll do ..my valve lash on the pic uder the hood states the same as posted here, most of the feeler gauges i came across ..autozone , advanced auto only carried the ones up to .026 ..amazon at this point ?
The feeler gates you're seeing at the store are English. OPs numbers are metric. .026 is 0.66mm. You need to convert his numbers.
 

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The feeler gates you're seeing at the store are English. OPs numbers are metric. .026 is 0.66mm. You need to convert his numbers.
Agreed ..it dawned on me afterwards ... this is taken from the service manual .. so the 0.022 would work out to 0.00811 or 0.008 and 0.030 works out to .0118 or .011
on the feeler gauge :)

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My 2004 EXL has 184k miles and it has a very slight vibration at idle. It otherwise drives fine. I owned the car brand new and I know that valve clearance has never been adjusted before.

For those who have done the valve adjustment, what are signs that an adjustment is needed? I am sort of conflicted: one voice is that an adjustment is probably needed after 17years and 184k miles; another voice is don't fix unless it's broken: the car runs smoothly and the vibration at idle is so slight that it can hardly be felt. I am itchy to take on it myself, but am intimidated that something may get broken in the process of taking apart and reassembling.

Thoughts?
 

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Agreed ..it dawned on me afterwards ... this is taken from the service manual .. so the 0.022 would work out to 0.00811 or 0.008 and 0.030 works out to .0118 or .011
on the feeler gauge :)

View attachment 138303
The offset feeler gauges work best, especially for the exhaust valves. You can have this metric offset gauge by Jan 13th from Amazon for $8.19.
Amazon.com: ABN Universal Standard SAE and Metric Offset Valve Feeler Gauge 16-Piece Blade Tool for Measuring Gap Width/Thickness: Automotive

Not offset but more sizes and you can bend them to work $7.99
Amazon.com: Hotop 32 Blades Steel Feeler Gauge Dual Marked Metric and Imperial Gap Measuring Tool: Industrial & Scientific
 

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I am itchy to take on it myself, but am intimidated that something may get broken in the process of taking apart and reassembling.

Thoughts?
can you turn a wrench, read instructions and take your time/ patience? I wouldn't worry about anything breaking unless you feel the need to over-torque the bolts during re-assembly. First 2 steps are Remove intake manifold then the cylinder head (valve) covers. After that its just turning over the crank pulley to align the numbers in the front cam sight hole. The service manual states checking the cylinders in this order: 1, 4, 2, 5, 3, 6.
I plan on doing the valve adjustment during spark plug replacement while also replacing all associated gaskets for the manifold and covers
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Can I strip a nut? ✅
Can I forget connecting a wire? ✅
Can I short a wire? ✅
😂 😂

What I was really asking was: is there any good sign to justify the investment of the work (6-8 hrs for a noob like me) with the projected return?

A couple months ago I cleaned the throttle body and instantly got a CEL that freaked me out. Luckily It disappeared after driving for about 3 miles and never returned.
 

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My 2004 EXL has 184k miles and it has a very slight vibration at idle. It otherwise drives fine. I owned the car brand new and I know that valve clearance has never been adjusted before.

For those who have done the valve adjustment, what are signs that an adjustment is needed? I am sort of conflicted: one voice is that an adjustment is probably needed after 17years and 184k miles; another voice is don't fix unless it's broken: the car runs smoothly and the vibration at idle is so slight that it can hardly be felt. I am itchy to take on it myself, but am intimidated that something may get broken in the process of taking apart and reassembling.

Thoughts?
At 184k miles, you would be wise to adjust the valves. The danger in ignoring a rough idle lies in the possibility of burning exhaust valves. With that many miles, the exhaust valve clearances tend to become too tight, meaning that the valves themselves are held open longer, and spend less time on the seats, heating the valves up even more. If the clearance goes down to near zero, then the valve can start to leak when closed, leading to a burnt spot that can grow quickly and ruin that valve. Now you need a top end rebuild.

The rough idle could also be clogged EGR passages or worn spark plugs. When you do the valve adjustment, that's a perfect time to take care of these items as well.
 
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