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How often does a valve adjustment and spark plugs replacement need to be performed on a 2004?
 

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I'd never say a valve adjustment isn't needed. I will say that many are done without the need.
It would be important to know what kind of spark plugs the previous owner installed. If they were Original Equipment (OE) which is NGK Laser Platinum.
 

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IMO, A better replacement for either of these 2 would be NGK Ruthenium HX.
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The previous owner had this service done at 116,000 miles. The vehicle now has 180K.
You have about 64k miles since the valve adjustment and new spark plugs. My opinion is that the valve clearance adjustment done at 116k should be good for the life of the car. The significant issue with Honda valve adjustment is due to exhaust valve seats compressing into the cylinder head casting, due to high exhaust heat and constant pounding from valve action. When your valves were adjusted at 116k, this issue was corrected. The degree of future valve seat compression should be minimal. The intake valves run cooler, and should not change all that much.

As for the spark plugs, if they are running smooth, there is probably no real issue. If you wish to change them, please feel free. Just make sure to purchase genuine plugs. There are fakes out there. Why change your good running genuine plugs for fakes?
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Maintenance Minder (from 2006 model year on, IIRC) now basically says inspect them and replace if they are noisy. Since you've already had it done at 116k miles, you should be OK for at least that long again, and most likely much longer if ever, unless you start hearing them ever get noisy again.

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2008 Honda Pilot EX-L 2013 Honda Pilot EX-L
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It seems that most people don't get the valves adjusted until the second timing belt service.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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It seems that most people don't get the valves adjusted until the second timing belt service.
That's what I'm holding out for. Or If and when they get noisy.
 

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That's what I'm holding out for. Or If and when they get noisy.
To tight doesn't equal noise though. Normally intakes are loose and exhaust are tight. Tight equals burnt valves and or lose of compression. Loose effectively changes your camshaft profile and slams the valves closed harder. Keeping the valves in clearance will help keep your motor running like new.
 

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Mine never made noise at all. But my idle got very rough, especially right after starting. That didn't start happening until about 175,000 miles -- and then it got progressively worse until 192,000, at which point it began stalling if I didn't start moving immediately after cold starts. I just had them adjusted and the difference is crazy. Still waiting to see if my fuel economy is improved. I was averaging about 18.5-19.0 mpg before, mostly highway.
 

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OK, so hopefully I can make it to my 2nd timing belt swap, at which point I'll do the valves, noise or no noise. She's running super smooth for the time being.
 

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2008 Piot SE FWD, 2015 Pilot LX 4WD. 2005 GSX-R1000
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To tight doesn't equal noise though. Normally intakes are loose and exhaust are tight. Tight equals burnt valves and or lose of compression. Loose effectively changes your camshaft profile and slams the valves closed harder. Keeping the valves in clearance will help keep your motor running like new.
Why is it that one side would get looser, and one tighter.
I would think they both would get slightly tighter as the valve seat wore in?
I realize other things could make them looser too, but why one side tighter, one looser?
 

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Why is it that one side would get looser, and one tighter.
I would think they both would get slightly tighter as the valve seat wore in?
I realize other things could make them looser too, but why one side tighter, one looser?
Loose generally comes from camshaft wear, and tight from valve seat recession. Probably multiple other factors that stack to affect it too.
 
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