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I got the urge to upgrade the stock speakers on my 2011 Honda Pilot EX with the 7 speaker system.

Spent several hours on Crutchfield.com figuring out what would and might not work.
Watched a couple of Youtube videos on how to remove the door panels (essential). It is not hard but you do need the plastic tools to do it.

Paid my son-in-law to do the job. I supervised.

I picked the MTX Thunder 65 2 way 6.5" speakers with pivoting silk dome tweers for the front doors ($99), and the $139 Focal RCX-165 2 way speakers with inverted tweeters for the rear doors.

Other accessories included: 2 sets of Boom Mat 6-1/2" Speaker Baffles, 2 sets of American International HSB524 Speaker Mounting Brackets (critical for the job!!) and 2 sets of Metra 72-7800 Speaker Wiring Harness for the speakers (also critical for the installation). Crutchfield kindly supplies the mounting brackets and wiring harness adapters free with the speakers, which is a great deal. And you will need them.

I bought sound deadening material to line the doors, only to find out that the doors already have sound deadening material lining them. Oh well.

I have not yet replaced the so-called subwoofer that is in the right rear panel, but I did purchase an 8" subwoofer on Amazon, to do this as a phase 2 improvement. For that speaker replacement, I picked the MB Quart DS1-204 Discus Shallow Mount Subwoofer (Black) – 8 Inch Subwoofer, 400 Watt, for $59.99 on Amazon. There is no special bracket needed for that but I did have to buy another set of the Metra 72-7800 Speaker Wiring Harness for this future project. This wiring adapter makes the install a breeze. And someone in the comments in Amazon did post about installing these in his Ridgeline and included photos.

I am doing the same with this post. A picture is worth a thousands words.

The American International Speaker mounting brackets supplied by Crutchfield, or sold separately on Amazon, along with the plug-n-play Metra wiring harness adapters make this job a snap. In fact, getting the door panel off is the only hard part. Installing the speakers is not hard.

The speaker mounting bracket replaces the one used by Honda to mount their OEM cheapo speakers. Man, are they real junk. They have a tiny little magnet and a vinyl speaker cone. They are so cheap, I tossed them directly into the trash, rather than resell them on eBay. The mounting brackets, like the Honda OEM brackets, have two clips on the bottom back that hook into the door frame. There is a single hole in the top of the bracket that a threaded screw goes through to attach the mounting bracket to the door frame itself. The speakers then screw into the plastic mounting bracket.

The original speakers measure out close to 4 ohm, so make sure your speakers do, too. Also, as the guy at Crutchfield says, look for a sensitivity of 90+ dB, as the Honda head unit, made by Clarion I understand, puts out about 14 watts per channel into these 4 ohm standard OEM speakers.

But, when you drop in the new speakers you will be amazed at the difference. No more muddy midrange and lack of clarity. You wont have to turn it up full blast to hear the bass or drums. It will all be like new.

The rear subwoofer is apparently a 2 ohm speaker, which is why I picked the MB Quart DS1-204. It can be wired for 2 ohm operation.

I have not used my subwoofer at all. Too muddy. Set it to -5 since I bought the car, but with the new speakers in place, I am now using the OEM subwoofer, and looking forward to ditching it with the rest of the OEM junk speakers.

One tip: Make sure you have a tight connection on the plug-in terminals of the Metra wiring harness BEFORE you reinstall the door panel. What I am saying is to test the speaker after mounting it in the bracket, as the first time we had a loose connection and had to take the door back apart again.

Use coffee cup with a magnet for the OEM screws so you don't lose them, is another good time. Take your time and go slow. The first one is the hardest.

There are other posts that mention reusing the OEM plastic speaker mounting brackets. You can do that if you like, but the new ones work great, and they are cheap. when installing the speakers in the rear seat doors, some of the tabs on the plastic mounting bracket had to be snapped off, so the new speaker fits in the bracket. This is normal. Just don't break off the bottom two mounting hooks, those are essential to the installation.

When we got it all done, I wished I had not bought the MTX Thunder 65s. They are very nice speakers but too bright for me. I wish I had spent a little more and bought two sets of the Focal speakers listed above, as they are beyond outstanding, and have that punchy midrange I was looking for, and never had with the OEM.

Now, if you like bright clear sound, then you may love the MTX Thunders, but I found I had to dial the treble back to -3 after installing them. I may even return them eventually, they are just too bright for my ears.

There are several speakers that fit the Honda Pilot listed on the Crutchfield site, so you have lots of choices.

We didn't bother to replace the two tweeters built into the dash. Apparently there is no perfect fit for that, but I would welcome suggestions from others on a good replacement tweeter.

Not sure I need it given the clarity of the MTX Thunder 65s which I mounted in the front doors.

There are 3 pics of the OEM Honda speakers, to show you what is in your car now. Junk, junk, junk. Tiny magnets.

Next pics are of the new speakers or the installation of them. The Focal speakers were installed in the rear doors and we had to trim the Boom Mat Baffle cups to get a proper fit.
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Good stuff!
A few thoughts.
About being too bright - are factory tweeters still connected? I would pop them out of the dash, disconnect the speaker, secure the connector with a zip tie so it doesn't rattle around, and pop 'em back in. See if that takes your highs down a notch.
Another thing: tweeters generally need a lot less power than woofers, and your 60W MTX woofers are woefully underpowered right now. If you put in a proper amp, it should balance out your MTX's, reinforcing the mids.

Also, the factory audio 'bass/mid/treble' is a rather crude arrangement. A good option for your system would be:
AudioControl LCQ-1 - it can take speaker level input from your OEM head front/rear/sub, convert them to line level, take it through an 11-band EQ (5 on sub, 6 on mid/highs, separate for front/rear) and it also provides amp remote trigger via signal sensing.
A 5-channel amp such as SoundStream Nano PN5.640D, Rockford Fosgate R2-750X5 or MTX XThunder800.5 to properly drive the new door speakers and that 400W sub. Warning - you might need to upgrade your speaker wires. I think OEM wiring is like 22AWG, you need at least 18AWG to properly feed 60W into 4 Ohms.
 

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Good stuff!
A few thoughts.
About being too bright - are factory tweeters still connected? I would pop them out of the dash, disconnect the speaker, secure the connector with a zip tie so it doesn't rattle around, and pop 'em back in. See if that takes your highs down a notch.
Another thing: tweeters generally need a lot less power than woofers, and your 60W MTX woofers are woefully underpowered right now. If you put in a proper amp, it should balance out your MTX's, reinforcing the mids.

Also, the factory audio 'bass/mid/treble' is a rather crude arrangement. A good option for your system would be:
AudioControl LCQ-1 - it can take speaker level input from your OEM head front/rear/sub, convert them to line level, take it through an 11-band EQ (5 on sub, 6 on mid/highs, separate for front/rear) and it also provides amp remote trigger via signal sensing.
A 5-channel amp such as SoundStream Nano PN5.640D, Rockford Fosgate R2-750X5 or MTX XThunder800.5 to properly drive the new door speakers and that 400W sub. Warning - you might need to upgrade your speaker wires. I think OEM wiring is like 22AWG, you need at least 18AWG to properly feed 60W into 4 Ohms.
Dang, OP's solution sounded like it avoided having to re-do wiring and adding an amp... those things are like two steps more than I wanted to do to upgrade my Pilot's sound system... oh well... guess mumble rap it is lol
 

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Well yeah, cause he's still amping everything from the OEM head. Which, being on a 20A fuse, got about 280 Watts RMS theoretical output limit. In practice, it is more like 20W per door and 50W for the sub.
The OEM speakers are so bad that if you drop in decent 6.5" 2-ways in their place, your sound should go up a few notches. Go for lower-powered ones (25-30W rating)
You could also try for a smaller powered sub like
It is recommended to run dedicated wiring, but frankly, at 125W, it should be possible to run it off the rear accessory socket. Just one thing - if you unplug wires from OEM sub and stick them into something beefier, your ANC might go onto overdrive - you will need to disconnect ANC mikes.
 
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