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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Just for fun I tried the paperclip in the OBD port to see what the transmission trouble code is saying. I'm getting a P0780 from my phone code scanner, the blinking D indicates a code 45 (mechanical problem in hydraulic system). The CEL light blinks 7 long times (70?), and the VTM light gives me 2 codes: 22 (right front wheel sensor?) and 77 (defective PCM?)

The troubleshooting section on code P0780 says to replace shift solenoid A (which I did a few weeks ago) and then to replace clutch pressure valves A/B, which is the one part I haven't replaced yet, only cleaned the fouled screens. So I've ordered one, as a last-ditch effort to try to save this thing, or at least get it to the dealer.

But what about the blinking codes for the VTM light? I wonder if they're just ghost errors caused by the other errors, or if there's actually something wrong with the VTM system.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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But what about the blinking codes for the VTM light? I wonder if they're just ghost errors caused by the other errors, or if there's actually something wrong with the VTM system.
Usually the former.

Here's hoping your Hail Mary pass turns out to be a game winner.

 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
For anyone curious, I ordered a genuine OEM clutch pressure valve A/B unit for $250 and just installed it. My Pilot has been parked for the past 8 days while waiting for this valve to arrive, so I swapped it out, put the battery back in and took it for a drive. Like usual, it shifts smooth and gentle for about 5 minutes, but then it starts flaring going into 3rd, clunking when downshifting, and probably would have stopped going into 3rd if I'd kept driving, but I stayed really close to home for this test drive.

So it seems like replacing solenoid valves is not the solution to my problem. I think that's everything external that I can do, everything else would require yanking the transmission. I'm half-inclined to do a few drain-and-fills with Honda DW-1 just to see if getting rid of the Maxlife ATF improves it a little. I've read a few reviews from folks to had Honda transmissions start slipping after awhile on Maxlife and things improved when they went back to DW-1. I can get a case of 12 quarts for $100 so that might be my last gamble on this vehicle.
 

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For anyone curious, I ordered a genuine OEM clutch pressure valve A/B unit for $250 and just installed it. My Pilot has been parked for the past 8 days while waiting for this valve to arrive, so I swapped it out, put the battery back in and took it for a drive. Like usual, it shifts smooth and gentle for about 5 minutes, but then it starts flaring going into 3rd, clunking when downshifting, and probably would have stopped going into 3rd if I'd kept driving, but I stayed really close to home for this test drive.

So it seems like replacing solenoid valves is not the solution to my problem. I think that's everything external that I can do, everything else would require yanking the transmission. I'm half-inclined to do a few drain-and-fills with Honda DW-1 just to see if getting rid of the Maxlife ATF improves it a little. I've read a few reviews from folks to had Honda transmissions start slipping after awhile on Maxlife and things improved when they went back to DW-1. I can get a case of 12 quarts for $100 so that might be my last gamble on this vehicle.
Idemitsu H plus is the equivalent to DW-1 with a viscosity index of 258.
I hope another fluid works for you.
 
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I was hoping you’d be posting good news that your Pilot is back up and running.🙁 You’ve got nothing to lose, well except for the extra $100, replacing the tranny fluid. I’m rooting for you and your Pilot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
I was hoping you’d be posting good news that your Pilot is back up and running.🙁 You’ve got nothing to lose, well except for the extra $100, replacing the tranny fluid. I’m rooting for you and your Pilot.
Me too, I was really hoping my test drive last night was going to go smoothly. Hearing and feeling the transmission slipping badly even after throwing $500 worth of parts at it is a real punch in the gut. I really do like the Pilot and wish I could keep it. Maybe I'll get lucky and the different ATF will help, but I think it's a long shot.
 

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For anyone curious, I ordered a genuine OEM clutch pressure valve A/B unit for $250 and just installed it. My Pilot has been parked for the past 8 days while waiting for this valve to arrive, so I swapped it out, put the battery back in and took it for a drive. Like usual, it shifts smooth and gentle for about 5 minutes, but then it starts flaring going into 3rd, clunking when downshifting, and probably would have stopped going into 3rd if I'd kept driving, but I stayed really close to home for this test drive.

So it seems like replacing solenoid valves is not the solution to my problem. I think that's everything external that I can do, everything else would require yanking the transmission. I'm half-inclined to do a few drain-and-fills with Honda DW-1 just to see if getting rid of the Maxlife ATF improves it a little. I've read a few reviews from folks to had Honda transmissions start slipping after awhile on Maxlife and things improved when they went back to DW-1. I can get a case of 12 quarts for $100 so that might be my last gamble on this vehicle.
Have you seen any metal fragments stuck to the ATF Drainplug magnet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Have you seen any metal fragments stuck to the ATF Drainplug magnet?
Nope, no large metal fragments, just a very small amount of fine black metal powder. I just did 2 drain-and-fills with Honda DW-1 as part of my transition away from Maxlife. So far, I haven't experienced any slipping or clunking. I'll do another drain and fill tomorrow, but I'm cautiously optimistic that maybe this will help me get a little more life out of the pilot, or at least get a few more dollars for it when I sell it.
 

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Hope your antimatter (DW-1) experiment succeeds. :)
 

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Nope, no large metal fragments, just a very small amount of fine black metal powder. I just did 2 drain-and-fills with Honda DW-1 as part of my transition away from Maxlife. So far, I haven't experienced any slipping or clunking. I'll do another drain and fill tomorrow, but I'm cautiously optimistic that maybe this will help me get a little more life out of the pilot, or at least get a few more dollars for it when I sell it.
How long had u been using VML? Or after how many miles did u start noticing issues?
 

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You have going in your favor that some on this forum reported sharper more abrupt shifts with VML compared to OEM fluid. My fingers are crossed 🤞 hoping a dose or three of DW-1 gets your Pilot’s transmission back to a working state. Keep us posted.
 

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You have going in your favor that some on this forum reported sharper more abrupt shifts with VML compared to OEM fluid. My fingers are crossed 🤞 hoping a dose or three of DW-1 gets your Pilot’s transmission back to a working state. Keep us posted.
Yeah, I'm about 5k miles with 100% VML. Not particularly impressed (or pleased) with how the transmission is behaving. But also have no interest in doing more drain and fills for a while. So I'll live with it and hope it's not causing damage (I don't think it is).
 

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I hope the switch back to DW-1 helps Andy's situation too. That particular year model had the low ATF pressure problem. A higher viscosity ATF may fix that problem.
 
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I hope the switch back to DW-1 helps Andy's situation too. That particular year model had the low ATF pressure problem. A higher viscosity ATF may fix that problem.
How about the 2005?
30 mins ago I completed my 2nd D&F (120miles after 1st D&F VML) and took for a 16 mile spin - felt fine. 224,810 miles on the clock
 

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Yeah, I'm about 5k miles with 100% VML. Not particularly impressed (or pleased) with how the transmission is behaving. But also have no interest in doing more drain and fills for a while. So I'll live with it and hope it's not causing damage (I don't think it is).
What differences are you noticing? Or is it behaving as before with no improvements?
 
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