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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
I like to know how is better to change the transm. oil (4q)... when the engine and transm. are cold or when are hot? (Pilot 2011 EX)
Actually the car is not driven for 3 months. So, I need to make a trip before changing the oil or its OK like that?
Thanks
 

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I prefer to change it when "warm". I change mine when I change the oil, and I like a short drive just before changing to warm up the oil to get it to flow well, and to get as much of the settled particulate into suspension, so as much as possible comes out during the drain.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
good point, but my car is in a very hot area. So even when is cold is like little warm. I have the impression that is the first time when the oil will be changed, so I
will try to do a complete change. First time I will do it at cold, some driving and the second at warm. At 90000milles its time to do it. I have it for 2 years and I take my time to "know it".
Anyway, I don't use it to much for now… only in vacation, but its time to do some "update" … Thanks for your input.
 

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good point, but my car is in a very hot area. So even when is cold is like little warm. I have the impression that is the first time when the oil will be changed, so I
will try to do a complete change. First time I will do it at cold, some driving and the second at warm. At 90000milles its time to do it. I have it for 2 years and I take my time to "know it".
Anyway, I don't use it to much for now… only in vacation, but its time to do some "update" … Thanks for your input.
The Honda service manual calls for the car to be run until up to normal operating temperature before changing the ATF fluid. (pg 14-209) There is no user serviceable transmission filter that can be easily changed. Now if you want to drop the engine and disconnect the tranny, you can change the filter.

If you've not done it before, verify you can break free the fill port located on the top of the tranny back on the driver side located on top near the fire wall. Hate to drain it out then struggle to refill through the dip stick. Iused a large breaker bar, a couple 12" extensions and I believe a 17mm socket to free mine up. Reuse the crush washer on the fill bolt, oh and pull toward you when breaking that fill bolt free. If you push standing in front and it gives, you will make contact with the hood hinge and it doesn't feel good. An extra long funnel will get down to the fill hole.

May want to hit the transfer case if it is AWD. Standard gear oil on that one and you will need a hose on the bottle to fill it. While you are at it, and if AWD, the rear diff is fairly simple. Drop the spare, and loosen the fill bolt first, then remove the drain plug. If you don't the oil will go down the control arms and out by the wheels. You will need a fluid pump to get it refilled.

Easy couple hours and save yourself a bunch of money. Probably around 50USD in fluids.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I read already the repair manual. Yes you need to run the engine before but like that you will take out less oil… is not a problem but is not yet done… i will see.
About the filter… I never said that I will change the filter. I know that I need to remove the transmission but really… somebody do that? I doubt… I don't look for
perfection. Shure that at that millage I will like to do that to have a complete job but… Somebody really wait to have the maintenance light open before changing the
TA oil? The owner manual say that. I doubt again. But whit the possible problems is better to do it. I think that the color say when to change it... you what that means.
But, again, you need to have some technical know how. The general opinion in forum say to do it. Mileage? Everybody's choice.
 

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Use a torque wrench when tightening the drain bolts so that you don’t overdo it and rip the threads out of the port. Don’t forget to purchase a new crush washer for each port. And make sure you can loosen the fill port before draining the tranny (and transfer case and rear differential).
 

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Use a torque wrench when tightening the drain bolts so that you don’t overdo it and rip the threads out of the port. Don’t forget to purchase a new crush washer for each port. And make sure you can loosen the fill port before draining the tranny (and transfer case and rear differential).
I won't argue that using new crush washers is a very good idea. That said, I reuse the fill port washer multiple times, this doesn't really hold a seal or have any issue with leaking, and I never have any issues over the past 5 years and 6 transmission fluid swaps. I always try to use a new one on the drain however.
 

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I read already the repair manual. Yes you need to run the engine before but like that you will take out less oil… is not a problem but is not yet done… i will see.
About the filter… I never said that I will change the filter. I know that I need to remove the transmission but really… somebody do that? I doubt… I don't look for
perfection. Shure that at that millage I will like to do that to have a complete job but… Somebody really wait to have the maintenance light open before changing the
TA oil? The owner manual say that. I doubt again. But whit the possible problems is better to do it. I think that the color say when to change it... you what that means.
But, again, you need to have some technical know how. The general opinion in forum say to do it. Mileage? Everybody's choice.
I added the comment in about the filter due to what may be left inside the transmission if it is done cold. Probably minimal. I do not know of anyone who has changed that filter. I sure as heck didn't do it. That being said, I would love to see what one looks like after 250K vs one that is new. I did five ATF changes on my Pilot over it's time with me and my only issue with the transmission was a pressure sensor going out. No issues changing fluids more frequently than what the MM calls for other than costing you a bit more but it is a great way to ensure a longer life for those components. Hopefully if you are on top of the changes, you don't have too drastic a change in color and odor in the fluid when you do change it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes I already read about the fill plug "problems" to strip. My car was a lease return so I am sure that no fluids was changed aside the engine oil. I am prepared with extension and a long bar for that plug. The same for the drain plug. I buy already 2 washers " if is needed".
Thanks to the other guys who post on the forum the steps for this job I am prepared to do
it. This is the first job to do in vacation. And the Muzzler (already buy it from Verbatim) and
the Valve Purge Solenoid and the PCV valve and the Heater Blend Door Actuator driver
side and a lot of beer... LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #12
And yes John you are perfectly right, more often... better, but if is not your car... its only a lease you don't give a dam about that... its the warranty who cover everything. The problem is all the time after/or for the new owner when no more warranty.
 

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I've found that a fine malty beverage helps, especially as you watch fluids drain out of your ride. Sad but true on the leases. Big sell by the dealer when I bought my Ridgeline this spring. Don't do anything for 3yrs and just turn it back in. Run the crap out of it and walk away. Sounds like a fun start to your vacation. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Right John… I am more like a bourbon guy but I still want to do the job right specially when I come there at 8.30pm and the wife want everything "NOW".
Now the question of the day: 2 years ago when I buy the car I change the oil… the dash say that the life of oil is 60%; the owner manual say one time a year...
So, your opinion? I drive the car in this period maybe 1000 milles… to be lazy owner or to be TLC owner?
 

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This cool weather makes me want a nice single malt scotch and a cigar, both don't mix with car work. Just starting to get in to bourbons myself. Usually if I tell the wife it will take an hour, I am out there cursing three hours later and making a mess. I now tell her oil changes will take 2hrs, finish in 30 minutes and enjoy that cigar.

For me, 60% and 1K in that period, I still change the oil and filter. At a minimum once a year if I'm not driving it that much. Other fluids I would push out to probably 5yrs or when the MM pops on the change. Maybe less if I'm bored and looking to tinker around a bit. Tire rotation would be at every 5000 miles. In this scenario I would be concerned with rubber perishing and seals starting to leak due to minimal usage. Air and cabin filters, change as needed. Checking both for occupants. Had mice that loved to get in and nest on my cabin air filter on my 2011. Coming up on your first timing belt service as well. Check for leaks around the timing belt tensioner and seepage from the water pump. My original tensioner was bad at 104K. Water pump was still good at 196K but got swapped out with the thermostat. One last one, flush out your PS fluid. Amazing how much new fluid improves the steering.
 

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One last one, flush out your PS fluid. Amazing how much new fluid improves the steering.
What kind of PS fluid do you use? Does it absolutely have to be OEM, like the VTM-4 fluid, or do you use a good quality aftermarket brand, like you can for ATF or brake fluid?
 

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I used Honda when I did mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sometime you need to "acquire some courage" to do the work. So a shot of Bourbon help.
Because the car is in Dominican Rep. everything you say is true. My big question/problem is to found a REAL garage there to do the timing belt and the water pomp.
Work in progress. I will buy the parts from Honda dealer in Montreal and the replacement will be done there. One job at the time. For now: the TA oil and what I already mentioned above + the engine oil change. About the fluids, I go only with the owner manual... don't buy surrogate replacements... you found a ton at Canadian Tire but I don't trust them.
Do the job properly and you have peace of mind. The exception is when the Honda change the requirements... like TA oil from ATF-Z1 to ATF-DW1...
And anyway next year is the retiring time and the time will stop being a problem.
 

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Congrats on making it out the other side. I’ll raise a glass to you this weekend!
 
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