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Well, the way I've done it on other cars is to first drain the pan and refill as Honda suggests. Then disconnect the radiator's return line to the tranny, start the engine and pump out about 2 quarts, stop, refill 2 quarts, then repeat the pump/refill 2 quart process until the total system capacity is flushed out. This process gets the old fluid out of the torque converter without having to go thru the multiple drain/refill/drive sequences. And you don't run the tranny out of fluid in the process.

I know it is not what Honda specifically recommends, but I was just curious if anyone has taken that approach on a Pilot.
 

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sfdude said:
Most transmissions can pump about 3GPM through the cooler. It is almost impossible to fill the trans at this rate
You use two buckets, one to drain into, and a second to pull fresh fruid from. Works very well. And this was the method many shops used for quite a few years (albeit a quite a while ago).

I've done it, but not on a Pilot. Not hard, but a high potential for a large mess if you are not careful. Also, it takes two people: one to monitor the buckets, another to run the engine and shift out of N/D/P.

BTW, some new cars/truck are recommending a 100K change interval on the ATF. So I think the 4x refill may be a bit of overkill, considering the quality of lubricants today.
 

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Threadhead said:

You use two buckets, one to drain into, and a second to pull fresh fruid from. Works very well. And this was the method many shops used for quite a few years (albeit a quite a while ago).

I've done it, but not on a Pilot. Not hard, but a high potential for a large mess if you are not careful. Also, it takes two people: one to monitor the buckets, another to run the engine and shift out of N/D/P.

BTW, some new cars/truck are recommending a 100K change interval on the ATF. So I think the 4x refill may be a bit of overkill, considering the quality of lubricants today.
You are making the assumption that the coller retun line has suction. I would NOT assume that.
 

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Changing the fluid the way you mentioned will work fine. in fact, you can let it run for 20-30 seconds with no problem.

The 3-4 time drain/fill/drive cycle is slightly more effective. This allows the accumulators, valves, and pistons to stroke, and will do a slightly more thorough flush.

Chad
 

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Quote:"BTW, some new cars/truck are recommending a 100K change interval on the ATF. So I think the 4x refill may be a bit of overkill, considering the quality of lubricants today."

The Pilot trans is not bullet proof and needs all the help it can get. Maybe 4x refill is overkill but ATF needs changing more often than most other makes.
 

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Re: dip stick re-fill

e2e said:
You might find it easier to refill through the ATF filler hole.
I am about to change the transmission fluid. Should I run the engine warm before I change the fluid?
 

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Re: Re: dip stick re-fill

il38694 said:


I am about to change the transmission fluid. Should I run the engine warm before I change the fluid?
It will drain faster, and you will get most of it out. Try not to let it warm up too much so you don't burn yourself with the fluid. Just drive around the block, that should do it.
 

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http://www.chicagolandoil.com/transmission_fluid.htm
AMSOIL Synthetic ATF is the only Honda Z1 certified alternative with the highest operating temperature range.

As another poster stated, I think all the fuss about using Honda ATF or not boils down to the ratio of friction modifiers used in Honda ATF. I am going to try Amsoil next time for the higher temp protection.
 

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Re: Re: Re: dip stick re-fill

Sunday Rider said:


It will drain faster, and you will get most of it out. Try not to let it warm up too much so you don't burn yourself with the fluid. Just drive around the block, that should do it.
I Learn that lesson too well.
 

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StudentPilot said:
http://www.chicagolandoil.com/transmission_fluid.htm
AMSOIL Synthetic ATF is the only Honda Z1 certified alternative with the highest operating temperature range.

As another poster stated, I think all the fuss about using Honda ATF or not boils down to the ratio of friction modifiers used in Honda ATF. I am going to try Amsoil next time for the higher temp protection.
I don't think AMSOIL is Honda Z1 certified.
There has been discussion on the CR-V forum about its use causing poor shifting and shuttering.
 

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I JUST READ THIS THREAD.....AND I WANT TO THANK EVERYONE WHO POSTED THE INFORMATION AND THE PHOTOS.....

I HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT ALL OF THE FLUID CHANGES FOR THE PILOT.....

WHEN MOST OF YOU ARE CHANGING THE TRANSMISSION FLUID.....ARE YOU ALSO CHANGING THE FLUID IN THE TRANSFER CASE AND THE REAR END AT THE SAME TIME?....

DOES THE TRANSFER CASE USE THE SAME FLUID AS THE TRANSMISSION?....AND HOW MUCH FLUID DOES IT HOLD?....

SAME QUESTION FOR THE REAR-END.....HOW MUCH FLUID DOES IT HOLD?....

ALSO.....FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO ARE GETTING MORE THAN 3.2 QUARTS WHEN YOU DRAIN THE TRANSMISSION.....DO ANY OF YOU HAVE THE TRANSMISSION COOLER INSTALLED?....(THIS MAY ACCOUNT FOR THE EXTRA FLUID)....

I WILL DO A SEARCH.....BUT.....IS THERE A THREAD FOR CHANGING THE BRAKE AND POWER STEERING FLUIDS LISTED ON HERE?....

THANKS.....
 

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I would like to add my 2 cents....I did my DW-1 ATF change yesterday. Honda Pilot 2011 exl (4x4). After I drain it I could tell that there was more than 4 qts of used atf in the pan, it actually measured 4.25 qts

I went by the book and poured exactly 3.6 qts. Started the car, waited until the fan came on, turned off , did measure the Atf and it did not reach the lower HOT dot in the stick. Poured a little more and it was a little closer but always under the lower dot. I poured the remaining ATF to complete 4 qts and finally I got over the lower dot and between the lower and upper dots.

What happened there??? At first I thought the dealership overfilled last time they didi the ATF change but it was the quantity needed to get the level.
 

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I also see 4 quarts drained when the manual says 3 and change. I do other service while the tranny and engine oil drain, (tire rotation, rear diff, air filter, etc).
How did you perform your rear differential replacement? Any instructions available?
 

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If you are talking about changing the fluid.....It is simple.....

Make sure that the vehicle is "level".....And the rearend is clean where the drain and fill plugs are.....

Drain the rearend fluid.....Clean and re-install the drain plug.....

Remove the fill plug.....Now.....This part is very important.....

You will need a small pump (sold at most Auto Parts Stores and Wal-Mart).....Make sure that you use a "new" pump.....Do not use a pump that you already have.....or you have used for any other fluid.....No matter how clean you think it is.....it will be a problem if you use it on the Pilot rearend.....

Pump the fluid into the rearend until it just starts to drip out of the fill hole.....Let it level off at the bottom of the fill hole.....Then re-install the fill plug.....

The rearend will take almost a whole gallon of fluid.....You should have about 1/4 to 1/8 gallon left after you fill the rearend.....

Put everything to the side.....Drive the Pilot or if you have all four wheels off of the ground.....You can run it on the lift or stands (but you must engage the VTM-4 in order for the rear wheels to turn while on the lift or stands).....Drive it or run it on the lift for about 5 minutes.....Shut it off.....Let things settle a couple of minutes.....Then re-check the fluid.....Add if needed.....

Now.....take that "new" pump.....seal it in a large ziploc bag.....And tape the bag to the gallon of left over fluid.....Only use that pump for the Pilot rearend fluid.....

You're Done!....
 

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There's some fellow around here cough @Tahoefever cough whose signature includes the witty adage, “When all else fails reach out to 1-800 YOUTUBE” 🤪

 

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Always remove fill plugs first. If you cannot get them out, no point in draining.
 
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