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All of you who change your own Pilot's trans fluid, you know that it's easier than changing the motor oil. Making it even easier is NAPA's all metal flexible transmission fluid funnel. It's a bit pricey at about $48 but it's the perfect length and the end is tapered to fit the filler hole perfectly. Once you put it in place it stays there until you're done. Previously I used two funnels to get into the filler hole but when I saw this funnel at NAPA it was love at first sight. It is the perfect funnel for this job so buy once, cry once. I plan on keeping my 2014 Pilot for at least ten more years so good investment.
There is no filter required for this fluid change so it's basically a drain and fill unless you want to remove the motor or transmission to get to the actual filter.
And yes, I have had fun chasing the fill plug washer around as it plays pachinko all the way down to the driveway (hopefully). From my adventures with that I have learned to keep a spare around (lazy cheat). When putting the fill plug back in, I will use a piece of scotch tape to keep the washer on the fill plug until I can screw it in a few threads by hand and then I remove the tape.
As far as access from the top, I'm 6'-3" and I can't see or reach over the fan shroud to where the top fill plug is. To fix this I simply stand on a milk crate.
Hope this was helpful for some of the first timers. As always, YMMV.

Tools Needed:

NAPA transmission fluid funnel part number: 720-1071.
Breaker bar, 20" 3/8" extension, 3/8" ratchet and 17mm socket for top fill plug.
Standard 3/8" ratchet for transmission drain plug underneath (no socket needed)..
3.8 qts of Honda DW-1.
 

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I used this $3 Walmart funnel and a piece of 1/2" ID vinyl tube I had laying around clamped to the funnel. Re-filled tranny with 1 gallon of TF thru the dipstick tube. The "fill hole" looks like a bear to access. Worked perfect.
 

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I used the fill port the first time I changed the ATF and vowed to never use it again. It was a pain to remove the plug every time to top off and it took me 30 min to find the damn washer after it fell into the abyss known as the engine bay. After some trial-and-error, I found it's easiest for me to fill thru the dipstick hole using the following setup: Insert an open Miximizer syringe into the dipstick tube and then put a generic long ATF funnel into the syringe opening. Just gotta slowly pour in the ATF so nothing overflows but it works great. Best thing is it only cost a few bucks for the syringe and funnel at Wally World.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I used this $3 Walmart funnel and a piece of 1/2" ID vinyl tube I had laying around clamped to the funnel. Re-filled tranny with 1 gallon of TF thru the dipstick tube. The "fill hole" looks like a bear to access. Worked perfect.
That looks perfect. I have a nice collection of funnels that I got from Walmart, Goodwill and various places. Each one has a unique purpose but they all take up space. Maybe if I'd stop buying tools I'd have more space....:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
On the 2012-15 the filter is located between the engine and transmission. So it's a just a drain and fill.
 

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I use a filler that screws onto the ATF bottle, has a plastic hose that fits nicely into the fill port. They are a few dollars at WalMart.

The fill plug torque is surprising the first time it came out. For plugs into aluminum as the fill plug is, I coat the threads plus the sealing faces of the washer with PTFE pipe sealing paste (Oakey at Home Depot, Permatex at the parts store), and reduce the install torque spec by 20%, The paste glues the washer to either the bolt of the top of the gearbox, so i usually crack the bolt loose plus a couple turns, then lift the washer into full contact with the bolt before unscrewing it the rest of the way. I still keep a couple spare washers in the spares drawer JIC. Same process on the drain bolt BTW, although finding a dropped drain washer is a little more straightforward. Be sure to open the fill port or at least loosen it before you go drain any fluid. Your escape is filling via the dipstick tube, but that's usually a little slower and messier than using the fill port.

Thanks to the warnings from forum members the first time, I was ready with 1/2"-drive extensions and a long-handled ratchet for that first removal. Still, it broke free with a surprising 'crack!'. Since then, everything has been OK.
 
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All of you who change your own Pilot's trans fluid, you know that it's easier than changing the motor oil. Making it even easier is NAPA's all metal flexible transmission fluid funnel. It's a bit pricey at about $48 but it's the perfect length and the end is tapered to fit the filler hole perfectly. Once you put it in place it stays there until you're done. Previously I used two funnels to get into the filler hole but when I saw this funnel at NAPA it was love at first sight. It is the perfect funnel for this job so buy once, cry once. I plan on keeping my 2014 Pilot for at least ten more years so good investment.
There is no filter required for this fluid change so it's basically a drain and fill unless you want to remove the motor or transmission to get to the actual filter.
And yes, I have had fun chasing the fill plug washer around as it plays pachinko all the way down to the driveway (hopefully). From my adventures with that I have learned to keep a spare around (lazy cheat). When putting the fill plug back in, I will use a piece of scotch tape to keep the washer on the fill plug until I can screw it in a few threads by hand and then I remove the tape.
As far as access from the top, I'm 6'-3" and I can't see or reach over the fan shroud to where the top fill plug is. To fix this I simply stand on a milk crate.
Hope this was helpful for some of the first timers. As always, YMMV.

Tools Needed:

NAPA transmission fluid funnel part number: 720-1071.
Breaker bar, 20" 3/8" extension, 3/8" ratchet and 17mm socket for top fill plug.
Standard 3/8" ratchet for transmission drain plug underneath (no socket needed)..
3.8 qts of Honda DW-1.
Nice funnel.
Hmm, $3.99+$2.99 vs $48
El Cheapo says he will keep the $41 difference and use 2 funnels. What's a quart of OEM DW-1 cost these days? Heared the parts dept went up 10% across the board.
 

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Nice funnel.
Hmm, $3.99+$2.99 vs $48
El Cheapo says he will keep the $41 difference and use 2 funnels. What's a quart of OEM DW-1 cost these days? Heared the parts dept went up 10% across the board.
I paid $8+ for DW-1 about 6 weeks ago. Used 4 ozs. after the cooler install.
 

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I paid $8+ for DW-1 about 6 weeks ago. Used 4 ozs. after the cooler install.
$8x4=$32
For his 5-speed Honda transmissions, El Cheapo will buy Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF at Wal-Mart for $18 and pocket the $14. 🤑
 
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$8x4=$32
For his 5-speed Honda transmissions, El Cheapo will buy Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF at Wal-Mart for $18 and pocket the $14. 🤑
I bought 1 qt of DW-1 just so I could add a little TF immediately after my tranny cooler install about 6 weeks ago. Couple of weeks, or so ago, I did a D&F re-filling with 1 gal. of VML. Will do another D&F with VML shortly. I can't swear to it and have no solid proof, but it seems like TFTs are a few degrees cooler after the D&F. 🤷‍♂️
 

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I bought 1 qt of DW-1 just so I could add a little TF immediately after my tranny cooler install about 6 weeks ago. Couple of weeks, or so ago, I did a D&F re-filling with 1 gal. of VML. Will do another D&F with VML shortly.
Your in a 3rd Gen, correct?
So your 2/3 DW-1 , 1/3 ML?
How's the shift quality?
 

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Your in a 3rd Gen, correct?
So your 2/3 DW-1 , 1/3 ML?
How's the shift quality?
Negative......2017 G2 Ridgeline. Don't have a clue regarding ? #2......drained 1 gallon, re-filled with 1 gallon VML. I observe zero, zip, nada difference in shift quality.
 

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As @mclasser said, use a long funnel attached to a syringe in the dipstick tube. Never mess with the fill plug and it's dumb location. The funnel holds a full quart at a time so dump the whole quart in and wait a minute or so for it all to go in. Works perfect, no mess and no fussing.

138926
 

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Negative......2017 G2 Ridgeline. Don't have a clue regarding ? #2......drained 1 gallon, re-filled with 1 gallon VML. I observe zero, zip, nada difference in shift quality.
I ask because after I did a 3 x with ML, my shifts were sharper.
 
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On a tranny side note, I just added the Gear Position codes in the ScanGauge (XGauge) just for the heck of it. I noticed when coming to a stop, the tranny downshifts thru the gears 6, 5, 4, etc. but skips 2nd......downshifts 3 to 1. 🤷‍♂️
 

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All of you who change your own Pilot's trans fluid, you know that it's easier than changing the motor oil. Making it even easier is NAPA's all metal flexible transmission fluid funnel. It's a bit pricey at about $48 but it's the perfect length and the end is tapered to fit the filler hole perfectly. Once you put it in place it stays there until you're done. Previously I used two funnels to get into the filler hole but when I saw this funnel at NAPA it was love at first sight. It is the perfect funnel for this job so buy once, cry once. I plan on keeping my 2014 Pilot for at least ten more years so good investment.
There is no filter required for this fluid change so it's basically a drain and fill unless you want to remove the motor or transmission to get to the actual filter.
And yes, I have had fun chasing the fill plug washer around as it plays pachinko all the way down to the driveway (hopefully). From my adventures with that I have learned to keep a spare around (lazy cheat). When putting the fill plug back in, I will use a piece of scotch tape to keep the washer on the fill plug until I can screw it in a few threads by hand and then I remove the tape.
As far as access from the top, I'm 6'-3" and I can't see or reach over the fan shroud to where the top fill plug is. To fix this I simply stand on a milk crate.
Hope this was helpful for some of the first timers. As always, YMMV.

Tools Needed:

NAPA transmission fluid funnel part number: 720-1071.
Breaker bar, 20" 3/8" extension, 3/8" ratchet and 17mm socket for top fill plug.
Standard 3/8" ratchet for transmission drain plug underneath (no socket needed)..
3.8 qts of Honda DW-1.

Thanks for the write up! Since only about 1/3 of the total fluid come out at a drain cycle, what about starting the engine (still in park) with the drain bolt out, and let the internal pump continue to 'purge' the transmission? You would get more fluid out of the circuit when doing this, and as long as you replaced the same about of fluid that came out, it seems like a better way to do it.

Thoughts for the forum on this method?
 
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