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Discussion Starter #1
Planning to do a drain and fill and I can’t get the darn fill bolt lose. Any tips? I’m not too eager to spray something like WD40 to loosen it because I don’t want it to get into the transmission. If anyone can help that would be great! Thanks!
 

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The bolt is torqued at a ridiculous amount of foot pounds for some reason. Just crazy for a bolt that's not actually doing anything other than plugging a hole. You will need a breaker bar to get it loose or use a cheater pipe that slips over your ratchet handle.
 

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It took a 1/2” drive 18” breaker bar to loosen that bolt on my Pilot. That bolt was on freaking tight. Watch your knuckles when it breaks free. Filling through this port is much more enjoyable compared to the dipstick port.
 

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As others note, boils down to these two options, along with their respective pros & cons.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks everyone! I was able to get it loose, I used multiple extensions.
A side note, I went to the Honda dealership and asked for 4 qts of DW
-1. They rang me up and after I paid he handed me a crush washer. I looked at the invoice and I was charged $6 for that darn thing. Last time I did a drain and fill I didn’t replace that. Gah that made me mad.
 

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See that beautiful potted plant in the corner of your dealership's waiting area? Gotta pay for it somehow.
 

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I just bought two qts of rear diff. fluid at my local Honda dealer (bought our 2019 Pilot at a different dealer)...... $19 total for two quarts and they threw in the two crush washers for free!
 

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Thanks everyone! I was able to get it loose, I used multiple extensions.
A side note, I went to the Honda dealership and asked for 4 qts of DW
-1. They rang me up and after I paid he handed me a crush washer. I looked at the invoice and I was charged $6 for that darn thing. Last time I did a drain and fill I didn’t replace that. Gah that made me mad.
Save yourself some $ next time. Get you some Valvoline MaxLife ATF ($18 per gal at Wal-Mart). You can buy crush washers 10 or 20 packs on Amazon.
 

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A side note, I went to the Honda dealership and asked for 4 qts of DW-1. They rang me up and after I paid he handed me a crush washer. I looked at the invoice and I was charged $6 for that darn thing. Last time I did a drain and fill I didn’t replace that. Gah that made me mad.
For $6, at the dealer, you should have received crush washers for both the drain and fill bolts.
1989-2012 Honda Washer, Sealing (24MM) 90441-PK4-000 | Majestic Honda Automotive Parts
1990-2020 Honda Washer, Drain Plug (18MM) 90471-PX4-000 | Majestic Honda Automotive Parts
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Alright...thank you everyone for your help! Got the bolt loose and found a funnel long enough to reach it. The fluid was very clean and there wasn't anything on the plug magnet.
 

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The bolt is torqued at a ridiculous amount of foot pounds for some reason. Just crazy for a bolt that's not actually doing anything other than plugging a hole. You will need a breaker bar to get it loose or use a cheater pipe that slips over your ratchet handle.
The fill plug is generally not over-torqued. The problem is dissimilar metals and the size of the plug. I torque mine to the exact spec, and after 15,000 miles, it is TIGHT as hell every single time.
 

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The fill plug is generally not over-torqued. The problem is dissimilar metals and the size of the plug. I torque mine to the exact spec, and after 15,000 miles, it is TIGHT as hell every single time.
Yes, I don't torque it anymore just because of this (just snug). The only reason why they might want it so tight is for fear of water going in that way. Maybe?
 

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They don't want it "so tight". The factory torque spec is only 33 ft lbs, which is less than the drain bolt. The spec is designed to keep the fastener in place, and "crush" the washer enough to make a seal. I don't care if you put 10lbs on it, or 33lbs, it is tight as hell coming off after 15k miles. The only thing I haven't tried, is putting some anti-seize on it, simply because I didn't want any risk of contamination of the fluid, and once you get used to it, popping it loose isnt that big of a deal.
 

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I always have to use my breaker bar to loosen the fill plug. The only time it was a pain was the first time because I was not expecting it. Now, I just grab the 1/2 breaker bar and long extension each time
 

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I also suggest you use an impact wrench socket. I broke my regular socket removing the transmission fill bolt The first time.
 

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Planning to do a drain and fill and I can’t get the darn fill bolt lose. Any tips? I’m not too eager to spray something like WD40 to loosen it because I don’t want it to get into the transmission. If anyone can help that would be great! Thanks!
Try my video link on YouTube.
 

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Try my video link on YouTube.
Nice, but you left us with a cliffhanger before actually breaking the bolt free. Unless that part got censored by YouTube for profane language? :ROFLMAO:
 
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