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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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So many different flavors of wrong.

Where to start?
  1. Throttle body. Before yanking it out, for the symptoms he describes, start by looking at the air intake tube for cracks. After that, look at replacing your PCV valve, then cleaning you EGR ports, passages and valve, perhaps replacing that.
  2. Low beams? Yeah, duh, check if the filaments are burned out, but the multifunction switch circuitry shorting and giving off a "funky" burning smell? Well dude, that might be from hotboxing just before you shot the video.
  3. Dome light. The A1 Auto parts cannon huckster suggests you replace the base (for $80 https://www.amazon.com/Honda-34404-SDA-A21-Genuine-Base/dp/B00BFDHBX ) instead of what the real problem is, the microswitches (for $10 with free LED bulbs thrown in Amazon.com: Durable 924-798 Dome Lamp Switch Compatible with 2006 Honda CR-V Odyssey Accord Pilot Ridgeline Dodge Ram 1500 Map Light Switch Replace 34404-SDA-A21 34404-SDA-A22D3(Updated Switch+Free Bulbs): Industrial & Scientific)
  4. Water on your floorboards. First, it costs nothing to make sure your two A/C drains aren't clogged, which is more current, but even though he suggests sealing up those grommets, and yes you should while you're in there, he fails to mention the equally if not more important fix of sealing up the welded seam there, which is at least as much of the cause of the leak.
  5. Lower control arm. Of course you should keep an eye on your LCA bushings and give them and all your suspension bushings and boots a prophylactic re-plasticizing spritz of AT-205 once a year or so, but the clunking sound at low speeds he talks about will almost surely be cured by simply replacing the front sway bar bushings for a couple of bucks each rather than shelling out for two new LCAs, which 1A just happens to sell (for $190), whaddaya know.

I'm almost as out of breath from quickly jotting down all these misdirects as the guy in the video who, through the miracle of editing, rarely seems to draw a breath, so I'll invite fellow Piloteers to list your real Top 5 Problems (and fixes) in this thread.

Thanks to @20Piloteer07 for posting that video and providing us with the opportunity to set the record straight.
 

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Registered
Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
Joined
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9,250 Posts

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Registered
2008 Piot SE FWD, 2015 Pilot LX 4WD. 2005 GSX-R1000
Joined
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2,063 Posts
So many different flavors of wrong.

Where to start?
  1. Throttle body. Before yanking it out, for the symptoms he describes, start by looking at the air intake tube for cracks. After that, look at replacing your PCV valve, then cleaning you EGR ports, passages and valve, perhaps replacing that.
  2. Low beams? Yeah, duh, check if the filaments are burned out, but the multifunction switch circuitry shorting and giving off a "funky" burning smell, well dude, that might be from hotboxing just before you shot the video.
  3. Dome light. The A1 Auto parts cannon huckster suggests you replace the base (for $80 https://www.amazon.com/Honda-34404-SDA-A21-Genuine-Base/dp/B00BFDHBX ) instead of what the real problem is, the microswitches (for $10 with free LED bulbs thrown in Amazon.com: Durable 924-798 Dome Lamp Switch Compatible with 2006 Honda CR-V Odyssey Accord Pilot Ridgeline Dodge Ram 1500 Map Light Switch Replace 34404-SDA-A21 34404-SDA-A22D3(Updated Switch+Free Bulbs): Industrial & Scientific)
  4. Water on your floorboards. First, it costs nothing to make sure your two A/C drains aren't clogged, which is more current, but even though he suggests sealing up those grommets, and yes you should while you're in there, he fails to mention the equally if not more important fix of sealing up the welded seam there, which is at least as much of the cause of the leak.
  5. Lower control arm. Of course you should keep an eye on your LCA bushings and give them and all your suspension bushings and boots a prophylactic re-plasticizing spritz of AT-205 once a year or so, but the clunking sound at low speeds he talks about will almost surely be cured by simply replacing the front sway bar bushings for a couple of bucks each rather than shelling out for two new LCAs, which 1A just happens to sell (for $190), whaddaya know.

I'm almost as out of breath from quickly jotting down all these misdirects as the guy in the video who, through the miracle of editing, rarely seems to draw a breath, so I'll invite fellow Piloteers to list your real Top 5 Problems (and fixes) in this thread.

Thanks to @20Piloteer07 for posting that video and providing us with the opportunity to set the record straight.
Your critique is Nicely done PlPl.
 

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Banned from wife’s 2005 Pilot LX
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3,836 Posts
He didn’t really emphasize to clean all the crud out from the mud flap area while he had easy access to it.

My five areas main areas of concern for the first gen Pilot are:
1) Radiator (mainly for the 2005) failing resulting in a pink milkshake.
2) Side and front motor mounts
3) Compliance (lower control arm) bushings tearing.
4) Door checkers. No fun when a door slams into you leg or ankle. All four of mine failed.
5) Rear blower filter screen. This screen clogging has made manufacturers of the rear blower resistor/transistor module some money. If the mechanic doesn’t fix the root cause of the issue there will be a repeat customer.
 

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He didn’t really emphasize to clean all the crud out from the mud flap area while he had easy access to it.

My five areas main areas of concern for the first gen Pilot are:
1) Radiator (mainly for the 2005) failing resulting in a pink milkshake.
2) Side and front motor mounts
3) Compliance (lower control arm) bushings tearing.
4) Door checkers. No fun when a door slams into you leg or ankle. All four of mine failed.
5) Rear blower filter screen. This screen clogging has made manufacturers of the rear blower resistor/transistor module some money. If the mechanic doesn’t fix the root cause of the issue there will be a repeat customer.
Yours is the first mention or door checkers I've seen. What are they and where are they?
Check your door, Sir?
Please.
Right away, Sir! Yes, it's still there.
Thanks.
 

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Registered
Joined
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2,116 Posts
So many different flavors of wrong.

Where to start?
  1. Throttle body. Before yanking it out, for the symptoms he describes, start by looking at the air intake tube for cracks. After that, look at replacing your PCV valve, then cleaning you EGR ports, passages and valve, perhaps replacing that.
  2. Low beams? Yeah, duh, check if the filaments are burned out, but the multifunction switch circuitry shorting and giving off a "funky" burning smell? Well dude, that might be from hotboxing just before you shot the video.
  3. Dome light. The A1 Auto parts cannon huckster suggests you replace the base (for $80 https://www.amazon.com/Honda-34404-SDA-A21-Genuine-Base/dp/B00BFDHBX ) instead of what the real problem is, the microswitches (for $10 with free LED bulbs thrown in Amazon.com: Durable 924-798 Dome Lamp Switch Compatible with 2006 Honda CR-V Odyssey Accord Pilot Ridgeline Dodge Ram 1500 Map Light Switch Replace 34404-SDA-A21 34404-SDA-A22D3(Updated Switch+Free Bulbs): Industrial & Scientific)
  4. Water on your floorboards. First, it costs nothing to make sure your two A/C drains aren't clogged, which is more current, but even though he suggests sealing up those grommets, and yes you should while you're in there, he fails to mention the equally if not more important fix of sealing up the welded seam there, which is at least as much of the cause of the leak.
  5. Lower control arm. Of course you should keep an eye on your LCA bushings and give them and all your suspension bushings and boots a prophylactic re-plasticizing spritz of AT-205 once a year or so, but the clunking sound at low speeds he talks about will almost surely be cured by simply replacing the front sway bar bushings for a couple of bucks each rather than shelling out for two new LCAs, which 1A just happens to sell (for $190), whaddaya know.

I'm almost as out of breath from quickly jotting down all these misdirects as the guy in the video who, through the miracle of editing, rarely seems to draw a breath, so I'll invite fellow Piloteers to list your real Top 5 Problems (and fixes) in this thread.

Thanks to @20Piloteer07 for posting that video and providing us with the opportunity to set the record straight.
Yeah, it struck me as a bit too auto-parts-sales-guy-recommendation to just replace the whole dome light assembly, when a switch was all it needed. I'm surprised he didn't suggest we replace the headlight assemblies instead of just bulbs.

I don't have a gen1 but Multiple sudden dash lights ... test the battery, clean/tighten/protect battery terminals, check/clean/tighten/protect all ground cables/connections.

Rusty rear sub chassis. Check and regularly clean and fluid film it? Weld in reinforcements as necessary.
 

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361 Posts
my top 5

1. subframe rust
2. left rear quarter rust
3. rear bumper rust (I suspect mine is mostly gone)
4. bolts seized in the left lower control arm at the axle/hub
5. leather seats are deteriorating faster than I can tape them.

I have completed all the normal maintenance on my 200K car over the year - timing belt, suspension, control arms etc, no major hick ups to really complain about.

On retrospective, I would have installed better CV joints and better quality starter.
 

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Registered
Banned from wife’s 2005 Pilot LX
Joined
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3,836 Posts
Yours is the first mention or door checkers I've seen. What are they and where are they?
Check your door, Sir?
Please.
Right away, Sir! Yes, it's still there.
Thanks.
It’s the mechanism which keeps the doors open when you’re parked on an incline. It really hurts when they fail. And don’t replace with a Dorman part; spend the extra $10 and go with OEM.
 

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2,116 Posts
It’s the mechanism which keeps the doors open when you’re parked on an incline. It really hurts when they fail. And don’t replace with a Dorman part; spend the extra $10 and go with OEM.
Ah, thanks ... never realized I had such a thing here in the land of flatness.
 

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2,585 Posts
No problems on mine. Still on stock rotors, water pump, engine and transmission. Radio and RES works like a charm. Things replaced? Just the usual TB change, front and rear shocks, and resealed the oil filter pump. Now at 234,000 miles.
 

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2007 Honda Pilot EX 4WD (J35A9)
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96 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No problems on mine. Still on stock rotors, water pump, engine and transmission. Radio and RES works like a charm. Things replaced? Just the usual TB change, front and rear shocks, and resealed the oil filter pump. Now at 234,000 miles.
Same rotors? Thats amazing. I must be on my third or fourth.
 

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2007 Honda Pilot EX 4WD (J35A9)
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96 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sifting through here, also shows a different set of issues than I've experienced. I'm at 155K.


For me, my larger issues have been:

1) Radiator replacement at 80k
2) Catalytic converter went (but still while under warranty)
3) Oil consumption at about 3/4 of a quart to 6K miles.
 

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Registered
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140 Posts
So many different flavors of wrong.

Where to start?
  1. Throttle body. Before yanking it out, for the symptoms he describes, start by looking at the air intake tube for cracks. After that, look at replacing your PCV valve, then cleaning you EGR ports, passages and valve, perhaps replacing that.
  2. Low beams? Yeah, duh, check if the filaments are burned out, but the multifunction switch circuitry shorting and giving off a "funky" burning smell? Well dude, that might be from hotboxing just before you shot the video.
  3. Dome light. The A1 Auto parts cannon huckster suggests you replace the base (for $80 https://www.amazon.com/Honda-34404-SDA-A21-Genuine-Base/dp/B00BFDHBX ) instead of what the real problem is, the microswitches (for $10 with free LED bulbs thrown in Amazon.com: Durable 924-798 Dome Lamp Switch Compatible with 2006 Honda CR-V Odyssey Accord Pilot Ridgeline Dodge Ram 1500 Map Light Switch Replace 34404-SDA-A21 34404-SDA-A22D3(Updated Switch+Free Bulbs): Industrial & Scientific)
  4. Water on your floorboards. First, it costs nothing to make sure your two A/C drains aren't clogged, which is more current, but even though he suggests sealing up those grommets, and yes you should while you're in there, he fails to mention the equally if not more important fix of sealing up the welded seam there, which is at least as much of the cause of the leak.
  5. Lower control arm. Of course you should keep an eye on your LCA bushings and give them and all your suspension bushings and boots a prophylactic re-plasticizing spritz of AT-205 once a year or so, but the clunking sound at low speeds he talks about will almost surely be cured by simply replacing the front sway bar bushings for a couple of bucks each rather than shelling out for two new LCAs, which 1A just happens to sell (for $190), whaddaya know.

I'm almost as out of breath from quickly jotting down all these misdirects as the guy in the video who, through the miracle of editing, rarely seems to draw a breath, so I'll invite fellow Piloteers to list your real Top 5 Problems (and fixes) in this thread.

Thanks to @20Piloteer07 for posting that video and providing us with the opportunity to set the record straight.
Replaced engine at 209,000 miles. Headgasket at 216,000 miles. Both Cats at about 245,000 miles.
Otherwise trouble free since purchased with 172,000 miles on the clock.
 

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2005 Pilot EXL
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418 Posts
For me:
1. Water Intrusion from passenger body seam and grommets/wiring at same fender and clogged mudflaps on driver’s side 12/2019
2. ATF connection to Radiator FAIL- thankful wasn’t Pink Milkshake fail! Replaced Rad & Hoses 213k miles 10/2019
3. Leather Seats tears - been going on since 2015
4. Cloth roof lining had to be replaced- sagging-came unglued? 2015
5. New brakes and master cylinder-2012 (probably considered maintenance item) so listing an alternate #6
6. Same cracks in suspension bushings- not causing issues yet
 

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Lol! Rust! water intrusion! I loved that 2003 Pilot EX! Of course, I never had those problems. I live in Southern California. That car still had a lot of life in it with 230k miles in it. Interior was thrashed from the intense UV exposure - leather was cracking, plastic pieces were brittle, headlight covers cloudy, heavy wear and tear of the suspension system. That video contains a lot of issues I never had. With my new 2019 3rd generation Pilot, I will never know those issues...of course, I need to know what to do with the old NIB snow chains that will not fit on the new car...lol.
 

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Oh wow!
Clean your throttle body and push gunk down into places it shouldn't be and ya, you'll throw a code and have to call 1A for a new one. Lol 🤑
 
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