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2014 Honda Pilot EX-L 80k miles. I was washing the car today and I noticed tiny rust spots around the car. I take care of my car and I polish and wax it once a year and I wash it myself. Does anyone know how to get rid of these spots?
Thanks.

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2016 CRV Touring AWD, 2005 Pilot RIP.
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You or a body shop need to get rid of the rust completely wherever it appears, the prime, top coat and clear.
not easy to do well.
 

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You can buy a dedicated iron remover for around 20 bucks.

I used the meguiars wheel cleaner $12 which has an iron remover in it. It smells like a hair salon and turns purple on contact with the rust/iron. I let it sit a few minutes then washed off and rinsed well. Didnt notice any paint damage. I waxed after to prevent any further rust.

 

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Or use touch-up paint on a regular and Sisyphean basis.

Or learn to love your two-tone Taffeta White and Sunset Orange Pilot.
 

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You can buy a dedicated iron remover for around 20 bucks.

I used the meguiars wheel cleaner $12 which has an iron remover in it. It smells like a hair salon and turns purple on contact with the rust/iron. I let it sit a few minutes then washed off and rinsed well. Didnt notice any paint damage. I waxed after to prevent any further rust.

This... you need a full iron remover/decontamination bath. Follow up with a clay bar, a good polish and quality sealant to help prevent those particles from embedding in the paint again for a while. Living in NYC there is a TON of industrial fallout, especially if you park near any of the rail or shipping/boat terminals.
 

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Make sure these are actually rust spots before you panic. The Great State of Oregon uses a winter road deicer slurry that generates brown splatter spots that look a lot like what you show in your picture. Even with the extra care and religious paint sealing, they still take a little extra effort to remove during washing. Maybe you live in a winter-weather state that does something similar?

Our Pilot gets an annual spring claybar cleaning with Dawn, followed by paint touchup, detail polish and full paint sealant. That gets the winter deposits and crud off, and seals the paint again. The paint sealant gets renewed in the fall before winter weather sets in, so we at least start the winter with full protection. I added running boards just after purchase, and they offer a bit of protection against the tire sand & gravel splash. I've given serious thought to adding PPF (Paint Protective Film) to the doors below the trim line, but haven't followed up on that.
 

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For decades, I have used a bit of Soft Scrub kitchen cleaner, which has mild amount of bleach in it, and a soft rag to rub off those pin head sized rust spots. Works amazing. I usually do it during a hand wash of the cars so the chemicals in the SS don't stay on paint long. I tried the claybar liquid spray recently but it was more work than using the SS.
 

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The Soft Scrub and Barkeepers Friend cleansers are still mild abrasives abrasives that do a number on the paint even though they state they are no-scratch. I think that refers to porcelain sinks rather than car paint. Meanwhile, the detailers claybar floats on a film of something, and grabs stuff that stands proud of the paint surface. No scratches when used correctly. I make a thick foamy solution of Dawn for the task, and let it take off and emulsify residues found along the way by the clay. The foam is easily thick enough to lubricate the surface and avoid scratches from debris particles carried in the clay. Sponge wash and rinse first of course, to get the normal surface stuff off before the clay. I use the vendor-suggested detail spray for what it's designed for.
 

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The Soft Scrub and Barkeepers Friend cleansers are still mild abrasives abrasives that do a number on the paint even though they state they are no-scratch. I think that refers to porcelain sinks rather than car paint. Meanwhile, the detailers claybar floats on a film of something, and grabs stuff that stands proud of the paint surface. No scratches when used correctly. I make a thick foamy solution of Dawn for the task, and let it take off and emulsify residues found along the way by the clay. The foam is easily thick enough to lubricate the surface and avoid scratches from debris particles carried in the clay. Sponge wash and rinse first of course, to get the normal surface stuff off before the clay. I use the vendor-suggested detail spray for what it's designed for.
Yup I am a firm believer in the dawn as well. Of note, the Dawn will likely strip off any wax or sealant on the paint at the same time but it does a great job lifting dirt and other contaminants. IMO, you MUST protect the paint with wax or sealant after a dawn wash.
 

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Egg zacked lee. The Dawn and claybar are the second step in a more-stages prep and seal/wax. Wash with a little Dawn, then clay with the thick suds, then any paint chips or scrapes get repaired. Then polish as needed, followed immediately by a favorite sealant or wax.
 
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Egg zacked lee. The Dawn and claybar are the second step in a more-stages prep and seal/wax. Wash with a little Dawn, then clay with the thick suds, then any paint chips or scrapes get repaired. Then polish as needed, followed immediately by a favorite sealant or wax.
I like throwing an IPA or panel prep spray wipedown after the polish just to get the panels extra squeaky clean before putting the sealant on. Some polishes, like the Turtle Wax hybrid ceramic solutions polish, actually have sealant in them and recommend not wiping down before applying sealant. So as always, RTFL (read the f-ing label).
 
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