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Start all over again, you'll have to reset the tension plunger as well. Did you save the tensioner grenade pin? Move the rear cam clockwise to align the mark. Engine has clockwise rotation. Go counter clockwise when routing the belt. Start at the crankshaft around the pulley around the front cam, then water pump, rear cam, then tensioner. Pull pin, then rotate engine via the crank shaft two time clockwise, check all timing marks. Rear cam has bad habit of moving when routing belt.

Watch this video.

 

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Based on other videos and posts I have researched, I am assuming that since the mark is less than 90 degrees off, I can remove the belt, rotate the back cam counter clockwise back to the correct position, then replace the idler belt and tensioner, then and rotate the crank twice to see if the marks match up. If so, then I am good, if not, then I remove the belt and IMO, rotate the rear cam clockwise to the correct position and reset the tensioner, reinstall the belt and try again. Does this sound right to you?
Hi, if your a little bit out of time on the rear you can nudge it back into lining up the marks. But, don't leave the same belt especially if you've never changed it at the 105K interval (IIRC the interval might be 108K) or don't know the timing belt history. Either way, don't just reset the timing and reuse (leave) the old belt because if it breaks your redoing the job. Also these are interference engines. Here's a plan, make sure all the marks are aligned, turn the rear cam with a wrench, using the old belt to sync the shafts and turn the engine a couple times, to ensure the marks are aligned, then check the compression to make sure no bent valves. If compression checks out get an ASIN timing belt kit what has the crank and cam seals, with a water pump, and both pulleys, and tensioner, change everything so you don't have to go in there again or have part failure leading to replacement heads.
 
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