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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,

I decided to attempt to replace the timing belt and water pump on my 2006 Honda Pilot EX 3.5L on my own as I figure if the engine is bad, I could not harm it any further :).

Background, I noticed one day that my engine started hesitating on the road. After some research I also found that the noises my engine were making seemed to be diagnosed as tensioner and idler pulleys that might need replacement.

I immediately stopped driving the car at that time and did not want to cause major issues and have had it in the garage ever since. Now that I have time, I am following instructions via a Youtube video I found from 1A auto titled "How to Replace Timing Belt with Water Pump 05-12 Honda Pilot"

I got just past the step where I loosened the crank bolt and removed the crank cover ready to line up the timing marks. I have turned the crank clockwise various times and each time, the timing marks on the front cam line up to either the 1 or 5 position each rotation with the crank mark lining up as well. However, when I look at the rear cam, the mark is always either at about the 1 o'clock position when the front cam is at the 1 position, or at about 8 o'clock when at the 5 position.

According to the instructions, all marks should be TDC lining up with the timing mark on the back plate behind the cam wheel.

Is there a way to manually set this after removing the belt or am I going about this the wrong way. Not sure where to go from here so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help.

For reference, below are several photos showing the positions of the cam marks per rotation. The position is very consistent each time I rotate the crank bolt clockwise 360 degrees alternating between the 1 and 5 mark per rotation.

Crank Marker Alignment
Automotive tire Gear Motor vehicle Bicycle part Rim


Front Cam 1 Position
Brown Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread

Rear Cam 1 Position
Crankset Automotive tire Gear Bicycle part Bicycle chain

Front Cam 5 Position
Tire Wheel Bicycle tire Motor vehicle Automotive tire

Rear Cam 5 Position
Automotive tire Locking hubs Wheel Vehicle brake Motor vehicle
 

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Start all over again, you'll have to reset the tension plunger as well. Did you save the tensioner grenade pin? Move the rear cam clockwise to align the mark. Engine has clockwise rotation. Go counter clockwise when routing the belt. Start at the crankshaft around the pulley around the front cam, then water pump, rear cam, then tensioner. Pull pin, then rotate engine via the crank shaft two time clockwise, check all timing marks. Rear cam has bad habit of moving when routing belt.

Watch this video.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your response.

I have not removed the original belt yet. So all the parts are still in place. These are the positions before removing the belt. Tensioner, idler etc are all still attached. I am hesitant to remove them until I am certain I should do so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Based on other videos and posts I have researched, I am assuming that since the mark is less than 90 degrees off, I can remove the belt, rotate the back cam counter clockwise back to the correct position, then replace the idler belt and tensioner, then and rotate the crank twice to see if the marks match up. If so, then I am good, if not, then I remove the belt and IMO, rotate the rear cam clockwise to the correct position and reset the tensioner, reinstall the belt and try again. Does this sound right to you?
 

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Based on other videos and posts I have researched, I am assuming that since the mark is less than 90 degrees off, I can remove the belt, rotate the back cam counter clockwise back to the correct position, then replace the idler belt and tensioner, then and rotate the crank twice to see if the marks match up. If so, then I am good, if not, then I remove the belt and IMO, rotate the rear cam clockwise to the correct position and reset the tensioner, reinstall the belt and try again. Does this sound right to you?
Hi, if your a little bit out of time on the rear you can nudge it back into lining up the marks. But, don't leave the same belt especially if you've never changed it at the 105K interval (IIRC the interval might be 108K) or don't know the timing belt history. Either way, don't just reset the timing and reuse (leave) the old belt because if it breaks your redoing the job. Also these are interference engines. Here's a plan, make sure all the marks are aligned, turn the rear cam with a wrench, using the old belt to sync the shafts and turn the engine a couple times, to ensure the marks are aligned, then check the compression to make sure no bent valves. If compression checks out get an ASIN timing belt kit what has the crank and cam seals, with a water pump, and both pulleys, and tensioner, change everything so you don't have to go in there again or have part failure leading to replacement heads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi, if your a little bit out of time on the rear you can nudge it back into lining up the marks. But, don't leave the same belt especially if you've never changed it at the 105K interval (IIRC the interval might be 108K) or don't know the timing belt history. Either way, don't just reset the timing and reuse (leave) the old belt because if it breaks your redoing the job. Also these are interference engines. Here's a plan, make sure all the marks are aligned, turn the rear cam with a wrench, using the old belt to sync the shafts and turn the engine a couple times, to ensure the marks are aligned, then check the compression to make sure no bent valves. If compression checks out get an ASIN timing belt kit what has the crank and cam seals, with a water pump, and both pulleys, and tensioner, change everything so you don't have to go in there again or have part failure leading to replacement heads.
Sorry, I didn't mention that I already purchased the Water Pump, Belt, tensioner and idler pulleys to replace the old worn out parts.

Thanks so much for the help, I am going to try this out. I feel pretty confident in these steps and will follow your advice.
 
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