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How many miles is the longest anyone has went with their 2006 Pilot before changing timing belt?
 

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I heard an 2006 Honda Odyssey went 189k on the original belt. Are you pushing it? That was likely a while back. Time matters.
 
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2020 Honda Passport Touring AWD Metallic Steel
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A quick search for 2006 pilot ruined engine should give you an answer. Every one of those owners will tell you that their timing belt worked great, right up to the moment it didn't any longer. They can probably give you an idea of what a new engine costs as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just bought a 2006 Pilot yesterday with 133k and asked him if the belt was done yet & was told no, so I'm guessing it would be a good idea to get it done!
 

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I just bought a 2006 Pilot yesterday with 133k and asked him if the belt was done yet & was told no, so I'm guessing it would be a good idea to get it done!
Oh wow, Yes, don't drive it.
Do you DIY?
 

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Most people use the Aisin TKH-001 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump

belt, pump, tensioner, idler, water pump.

The trick is to get the crankshaft pulley bolt loose - about 1000 ft-lbs the first time coming out. The other key is making sure the timing marks are dead on, the rear cam is easy to get off one tooth which causes cold start issues
 

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I just bought a 2006 Pilot yesterday with 133k and asked him if the belt was done yet & was told no, so I'm guessing it would be a good idea to get it done!
These guys above (fivermillions, Nailgrease) are right on. You should do the timing belt/water pump service as soon as possible. I think that you can still drive your Pilot for a while until you have the service done. Just realize that you are rolling the dice every day. IMHO, you could push it for 1000 miles, but you are getting risky if you just keep driving. Of course, if the belt breaks tomorrow, my opinion is worthless.

Just plan to do the service ASAP. If you are up for it, DIY. Otherwise, find a shop that you like, and schedule the work. Make sure that they use a good parts kit. The Aisin kit mentioned above is first class, many forum members here like it. Ask your shop what they are using.

And welcome to the Forum!
 

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These guys above (fivermillions, Nailgrease) are right on.
I'd like to think my post drives home the message as well. :D


And, yes, ask for the Aisin kit.
 

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You could push it, but don't. Even if you pay someone else to do it, it beats buying a new engine. If you find an independent Honda mechanic, expect to pay $800+ and if you go to a dealer expect to pay upwards of $1,200. Then you won't have to worry about it for another 100k miles and honestly that's the most expensive service you'll ever have to do on your Pilot.
 

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Based on time, your 2006 is due for its second timing belt replacement.
Especially if you drive in extreme temperatures and/or harsh conditions, as per the owner's manual.

Timing Belt

The timing belt should be replaced
according to the maintenance
message shown on the information
display. Replaced the belt at 60,000
miles (100,000 km) if you regularly
drive your vehicle in one or more of
these conditions:

In very high temperatures
(over 110°F, 43°C).

In very low temperatures
(under 20°F, 29°C).

Frequently tow a trailer.


(p. 245)
 

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So what's the recommended way to break this bolt loose?
I've never used the Leslie socket, though people claim it works using an impact.
Lisle® 77080 - 19mm Harmonic Balancer Socket
I would think you would still need the crankshaft pully tool/holder also with this method.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Honda-Acura-Crank-Pulley-Removal-Tool/589712235?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101006586
I've always used the jack stand method. With multiple 1/2 in drive extentions and cheater pipe borrowed from my Pittsburg floor jack that has a removable handle (aluminium pipe).
Push down not pull up like this guy first did.
 

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What Nail Grease said. For most people a breaker bar and a crank holding tool are the best option. I have use by 3/4" impact without the holding tool but those require a lot of air and most people don't have one.
 

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If I may also add ..,
For the jack stand method, I recommend using impact grade socket and extentions. I've twisted off several cheap made extensions over the years. Even one Craftsman. The last time I did this job, The Harbor Freight Pittsburgh 1/2 impact extensions worked.
 

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All I see in the jack stand method is a ton of potential energy just begging to turn into kinetic energy... quality breaker bars, extensions and sockets are a must for that method.

Also, that Lisle socket gives me socket envy!

I have a pretty big 1/2" impact gun, if I decide to undertake this myself I will probably turn the pressure up on my compressor and see if my gun can take it off before doing anything else. Save myself a lot of time if it won't work.
 

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All I see in the jack stand method is a ton of potential energy just begging to turn into kinetic energy... quality breaker bars, extensions and sockets are a must for that method.

Also, that Lisle socket gives me socket envy!

I have a pretty big 1/2" impact gun, if I decide to undertake this myself I will probably turn the pressure up on my compressor and see if my gun can take it off before doing anything else. Save myself a lot of time if it won't work.
I tried several impacts with no success. Was to cheap to fork out $29.95 for a Leslie 19mm. I'll get one next time. The price is half that now. The Crankshaft Pulley tool/holder I can rent for free from O'Reilly's. I like free. 👍😁
 
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My TB was changed already, so will it be easier to break that bolt loose since it's not factory-tight?
My 2nd go around on my 2012 Crosstour was just as bad. It seems they just get tighter cause I know I didn't re-torque to 181Lb.
 
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