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Its not just the Interior anymore ... bumpers are what ..plastic also ? and other items :)
Better than Toyota, they are starting to make rear hatches out of plastic!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Talking about Plastic ..This just happened today.....drunk driver testing out one of those storm poles ...

139162
 
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Looking at this kit for the 2nd gen Pilot .

Thoughts ?

View attachment 139121
Its a good kit. Just did ours this past weekend using it. All high quality parts and I purchased from Rock Auto too. Just make sure you order and replace the one time use bolt for the t-belt idler tensioner. It comes with red loctite on it and I read some stories of it backing out if you don’t get that just perfect (use a torque wrench). Be prepared to cuss the idiot who came up the idea of putting the electrical box on top of the side engine mount and then putting the bolt underneath it all. Also if you don’t have the drive belt tensioner tool you may want to buy one... my old method of using a wrench was less than fun. The instructions for the drive belt show a hydraulic tensioner but ours had a standard spring type. Just be aware that the Honda instructions are pretty poor in the shop manual. When you pull the water pump expect A LOT of coolant to come out even after draining the radiator. I’ve done a good number of tbelts and this was the biggest flood I’ve had.

Our original tbelt tensioner was leaking but wasn’t visible externally yet. Pretty disappointing for 65k miles and 7.5 years old, but glad I replaced it due to age and didn’t wait any longer. Especially sad because on my 2JZ I’ve reused tensioners and never had one leak.
 

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Its a good kit. Just did ours this past weekend using it. All high quality parts and I purchased from Rock Auto too. Just make sure you order and replace the one time use bolt for the t-belt idler tensioner. It comes with red loctite on it and I read some stories of it backing out if you don’t get that just perfect (use a torque wrench). Be prepared to cuss the idiot who came up the idea of putting the electrical box on top of the side engine mount and then putting the bolt underneath it all. Also if you don’t have the drive belt tensioner tool you may want to buy one... my old method of using a wrench was less than fun. The instructions for the drive belt show a hydraulic tensioner but ours had a standard spring type. Just be aware that the Honda instructions are pretty poor in the shop manual. When you pull the water pump expect A LOT of coolant to come out even after draining the radiator. I’ve done a good number of tbelts and this was the biggest flood I’ve had.

Our original tbelt tensioner was leaking but wasn’t visible externally yet. Pretty disappointing for 65k miles and 7.5 years old, but glad I replaced it due to age and didn’t wait any longer. Especially sad because on my 2JZ I’ve reused tensioners and never had one leak.
The Bolt I never thought of i will add that to my order .. I'm used to the wrench way for the Belt tensioner ..flash backs from those GM days ... Thanks for the great info :) like others here many thanks to all :)
 
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... When you pull the water pump expect A LOT of coolant to come out even after draining the radiator. I’ve done a good number of tbelts and this was the biggest flood I’ve had.
...
There's a block galley drain on the rear of the engine as installed, a handy place to put a drain hose and a simple bolt valve. It will drain the coolant in the block to below the pump, and save the mess when the pump comes loose.

For those playing along at home, draining the radiator via the plug at the bottom gets coolant that's above the lower radiator hose connection in the block. Find the little block drain on the rear of the block, accessible through the rights side wheelhouse, to get the rest out. This is important for coolant changes as well as reducing the mess when changing the water pump. Honda made it pretty easy, but not that obvious unfortunately.
 

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There's a block galley drain on the rear of the engine as installed, a handy place to put a drain hose and a simple bolt valve. It will drain the coolant in the block to below the pump, and save the mess when the pump comes loose.

For those playing along at home, draining the radiator via the plug at the bottom gets coolant that's above the lower radiator hose connection in the block. Find the little block drain on the rear of the block, accessible through the rights side wheelhouse, to get the rest out. This is important for coolant changes as well as reducing the mess when changing the water pump. Honda made it pretty easy, but not that obvious unfortunately.
Thanks, I should have looked for a block drain. Will do that if there is ever a next time. :)
 

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Our original tbelt tensioner was leaking
Although a hydraulic timing belt tensioner now seems to be the norm, since stories abound of them failing, why not use a good old dependable spring-loaded tensioner?

One member was going to try one and post updates, but he hasn't yet. Does a spring-loaded timing belt tensioner even exist for Pilots?

Post if you have 200k miles on your 2003-2008 Pilot
 

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Although a hydraulic timing belt tensioner now seems to be the norm, since stories abound of them failing, why not use a good old dependable spring-loaded tensioner?

One member was going to try one and post updates, but he hasn't yet. Does a spring-loaded timing belt tensioner even exist for Pilots?

Post if you have 200k miles on your 2003-2008 Pilot
Im not aware of any spring based tensioners for the Pilot and I’m not confident enough in my engineering skill to try to create something on my own. What’s odd is that hydraulic tensioners are typically VERY reliable and I’ve never seen or heard of them leaking on other cars. I’ve seen them reused plenty of other car models and even reused them myself. Even after 10 years on my Lexus the one I reused still wasn’t leaking. Just odd that we see so many of them.
 

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Gearing up to do the timing belt on mine soon. I actually ordered a kit off Amazon I thought looked too good to be true. Lots of comments that it was fake stuff. I got it in and looked everything over really well. If it is counterfeit, they did an outstanding job. It was $140 for everything including the cam seals and serpentine belt. I sat on it too long and was outside of the return window. I decided after reading through this thread and seeing the Aisin stuff for only $170 and substantially more good reviews on there...that I wanted to try and reach out to them and return. I just could not take the risk with so many saying the timing belt broke within 10k and cost them tons in engine repairs.

I contacted Amazon through chat and they agreed to allow me to return it. The expected refund was showing less (around $122) and the rep said they would also credit me back $25 to make up the difference. Seems there are quite a few of those low cost kits that are suspect. I saw a couple other that said OEM that were around $315 or so. But since on here and on Amazon there is so much good feedback on the Aisin....going to go ahead and get that kit. It does not come with the serpentine belt so currently looking at the recommended Bando one. It also does not come with the cam seals...but most youtube videos said not to bother if it is not leaking.

This is the fake kit (do not buy!): Amazon.com: Timing Belt Kit & Water Pump Replacement for H-onda/Acura Accord Odyssey V6 OEM: Car Electronics

Here is the Aisin I am ordering: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EEYTRE

And Bando belt: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMCNJC

I also purchased the crank tool and socket: Amazon.com: BETOOLL 50mm Crankshaft Crank Pulley Wrench Holder Tool Removal Holding Spanner kit for Honda and Acura Engines: Automotive

I have already two jugs of pre-mixed coolant. Just waiting on a good opportunity to do it. My wife works a lot of weekends and I have to knock it out on a Saturday when she is home to keep the kids. Also it has been brutally hot and a lot of garage tinkering and projects seem to slip in lieu of enjoying the nice cool A/C!
 
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Buying from Amazon is not an issue if the seller is reputable. I have bought many OEM parts for my truck through them and they were not fake. I failed to look at the lack of feedback on these and how few reviews existed. The packaging was suspect and so correcting that goofup now.
 
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Buying from Amazon is not an issue if the seller is reputable. I have bought many OEM parts for my truck through them and they were not fake. I failed to look at the lack of feedback on these and how few reviews existed. The packaging was suspect and so correcting that goofup now.
I've bought an Aisin kit off Amazon before. It's got almost 12k miles on it in one of my Crosstours with no issues. The last 1 I bought was from RockAuto. With the 5% off discount code, they edged out Amazon by a few bucks.
There was mass hysteria not long ago over fake NGK Laser Iridium plugs off Amazon and/or EBay. The same time I bought my Aisin kit from Amazon, I ordered a set of plugs too. I can't remember how much cheaper, but it was significant. So I had these fears that I had bought fake plugs. So I went and pulled each plug and took photos. My plugs were an authentic import, made in Japan instead of the U.S.
But yes, the fake plugs exist. And if you were a victim of this fraud, it won't take long for your engine to start running badly.
 

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Same was happening with AC Delco plugs. Seems even fake ones had gotten through to RockAuto and local parts stores. I like to deal with stores that I can return things to easily without restocking fees etc.
 
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Same was happening with AC Delco plugs. Seems even fake ones had gotten through to RockAuto and local parts stores. I like to deal with stores that I can return things to easily without restocking fees etc.
Yes, RockAuto customer service is really bad. But they have saved me a small fortune.
 

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You’ll also probably want these plastic clips after they all break coming off. I swear I’ve never seen so many break on such a “young” car. Normally I expect the 2nd or 3rd belt to be the one where all the plastics break.



I got the crank pulley off with an IR 2135Ti and this Lisle socket. Didn’t even put up a fight. :)

 

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You’ll also probably want these plastic clips after they all break coming off. I swear I’ve never seen so many break on such a “young” car. Normally I expect the 2nd or 3rd belt to be the one where all the plastics break.



I got the crank pulley off with an IR 2135Ti and this Lisle socket. Didn’t even put up a fight. :)

Man I gotta try the Lisle socket. I'm still doing the Jack Stand method with extentions and cheater pipe.
 
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