I've read the timing belt sticky, and watched Youtube videos on timing belt replacements. l figure if I can resurrect an MG Midget that was unused for 18 years, put a new clutch in it, and rebuild the front suspension, a timing belt shouldn't be too bad. I've got another 20,000 miles to go before I have to worry about it, still debating on whether to farm it out. Then again, I helped my dad pull the engine on an '88 Pontiac 6000 to replace the Iron Duke's infamous plastic camshaft gear that committed hari kari.
I gather the Lisle heavy mass impact socket is the favorite for removing the crank pulley bolt. I won't try the starter bump since my '15 will keep cranking if I don't turn the key off quickly enough. Don't know if my CH air impact wrench will take it off, but I suppose I could dial up the air pressure a bit if it doesn't work. Plan B would probably be use the crank holder (which I'll need anyway to put the bolt on), my longest breaker bar, and possibly heat the bolt with the propane torch to help persuade it.
Is it necessary to replace the idler pulley and tensioner bolts? I know the idler bolt needs some Loctite, but I seem to read mixed opinions on replacing the bolts. I suppose if they're not expensive I'll just get them from the dealer, but I'm curious if dealers usually replace them.
Any idea why the torque specs for the crank bolt changed? Was a fixed number for older model years, but now is a lower number plus an angle. Wouldn't the older torque spec work if I have a calibrated 250 lb-ft torque wrench?
I take it genuine Aisin kits or parts from the dealer are the way to go for the belt, tensioner, and water pump. I'm just nervous about a) getting that crank pulley bolt off, and b) hoping I don't get a defective belt, tensioner, or water pump, or having a catastrophic failure before the next time it's due.