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You may want to tighten the bolt with a torque wrench, and for that you'll need the holder. Hammering on the bolt with the same impact used to remove it risks over-stretching the bolt, and means you'll need an even bigger impact to get the bolt out next time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
What is the "Sport" designation? I've never heard that before....:unsure:
i don’t know but it says Sport on the title. It got all the goodies like leather seat, Navigation, USB ports etc.

The previous owner saved the sticker, here a photo of it.

147701
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
When I Googled “Sport”. It said included additional package like Nav, USB, Subwoofer. and tow package etc. This pilot got it all so I guess that what it meant EX-L Sport
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
You may want to tighten the bolt with a torque wrench, and for that you'll need the holder. Hammering on the bolt with the same impact used to remove it risks over-stretching the bolt, and means you'll need an even bigger impact to get the bolt out next time.
My local auto part shop have both high lbs ft torque wrench and holder to loan out for free since I am a regular customer there.

I am thinking of buying this 3/8 drive torque for the smaller bolts. I have a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench but the shaft is very long and I am not sure that I’ll have room to torque bolts from underneath with the front end on the jack stands using my wrench.

Even I am concerned if I am going to be able to torque the crank pulley with the loaner wrench since it’s a long shaft one too but it goes up to 250 lbs ft

 

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Crank Pulley - 19mm @ 47ft lbs then 60 degree turn

The second Crank Pulley spec I found is 181ft lbs

My torque wrench only goes up to 150ft lbs so I will have to get a loaner on this one.
47ft/lbs + 60 degree is the correct spec per the Service Manual. I did it without a holder tool by torquing to 47ft/lbs by hand then marking the bolt and pulley for 60 degrees and getting the 60 degrees with an impact. Seemed to work well enough for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
47ft/lbs + 60 degree is the correct spec per the Service Manual. I did it without a holder tool by torquing to 47ft/lbs by hand then marking the bolt and pulley for 60 degrees and getting the 60 degrees with an impact. Seemed to work well enough for me.
Interesting and thank for the tip. I might just do it this way.
 

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I did my timing belt today. I spent the extra money to be sure i got legit parts. I've read about a lot of Chinese knock offs that don't last. Everything I got was new and Honda OEM.
 

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I know my battery impact won’t do the job for this so I will probably have to borrow one.

Do you know at least how many pound rating impact I will need for this task?
My IR 231c would not work it has 600 ft lbs. I had to borrow a cordless Milwaukee that has 1400 ft lbs. It came off with no problem. I was using the "special tool" heavy walled 19mm socket. I split a regular 19mm socket trying to do it with a pry bar. So, to answer your question it will need to be over 600 ft lbs. 1400 ft lbs will definitely do the job.
 

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I did my timing belt today. I spent the extra money to be sure i got legit parts. I've read about a lot of Chinese knock offs that don't last. Everything I got was new and Honda OEM.
If you want to know your not buying counterfeit parts, buy from your local dealership or online from trusted parts dept operating out of a dealership.
Or
Just buy an Aisin Kit from RockAuto, or if you want to pay $100 more for this kit, a Napa dealer carries it.
FYI
The Aisin kit contains OEM supplier parts.
I'll take that Mitsuboshi timing belt over Honda's Gates/Unitta any day.
 

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If you want to know your not buying counterfeit parts, buy from your local dealership or online from trusted parts dept operating out of a dealership.
Or
Just buy an Aisin Kit from RockAuto, or if you want to pay $100 more for this kit, a Napa dealer carries it.
FYI
The Aisin kit contains OEM supplier parts.
I'll take that Mitsuboshi timing belt over Honda's Gates/Unitta any day.
TY. I read reviews. Happy with my purchase.
 

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TY. I read reviews. Happy with my purchase.
Glad your satisfied with your $433 purchase.
Not to be critical of APSG. I am in no way implying that the good folks at Hanlon Auto Service Center would sell anything but the best parts they can get. They look like good guys that have been earning a living the right way for a very long time.
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On buying the smaller torque wrench for the other bolts --

My 3/8-drive snap-on clicker has a scale range to 150 lbs/ft, so not enough "turn-down" available to use reliably with 6mm bolts (typ 10mm heads) that get less than 10 lbs/ft. The 8mm bolts/nuts (typ 13mm hex) usually spec at about 16lbs/ft so are pretty much the smallest I'd use that 3/8-drive on. If you have a Harbor Freight store nearby, they sell a 1/4"-drive lbs/inch clicker that will do well for those smaller bolts. Multiply the lbs/ft torque spec by 12 to get the equivalent lbs/inch setting for the smaller wrench. Your favorite POLAPS (plain old local auto parts store) may have one of those to loan, but... loaning out a torque wrench is a lot like loaning out your girlfriend -- No telling what happened to it just by looking.
 

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On buying the smaller torque wrench for the other bolts --

My 3/8-drive snap-on clicker has a scale range to 150 lbs/ft, so not enough "turn-down" available to use reliably with 6mm bolts (typ 10mm heads) that get less than 10 lbs/ft. The 8mm bolts/nuts (typ 13mm hex) usually spec at about 16lbs/ft so are pretty much the smallest I'd use that 3/8-drive on. If you have a Harbor Freight store nearby, they sell a 1/4"-drive lbs/inch clicker that will do well for those smaller bolts. Multiply the lbs/ft torque spec by 12 to get the equivalent lbs/inch setting for the smaller wrench. Your favorite POLAPS (plain old local auto parts store) may have one of those to loan, but... loaning out a torque wrench is a lot like loaning out your girlfriend -- No telling what happened to it just by looking.
Torque wrenches are like Lays Potato Chips.........You can't have just one.
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I am humbled....
 
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