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Glorificatus Oleum Mutante
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Alright, so, after much delay, I'm finally working towards replacing the timing belt. There's just one thing I'm paranoid about and would appreciate feedback from anyone who has worked with this kit. Is it normal to see the internal "fabric" of the new timing belt from the side? As you go down the belt it appears and disappears into the rubber. :eek:

View attachment 153883
Normal
View attachment 153884

For a belt that has 171K miles, its looks are certainly deceiving... Or I'm just clueless. Do those white marks on the belt (that are perpendicular to its length) indicate anything?
Sign of wear.
 

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That new belt is fine as long as it's from a genuine Aisan kit.
Even better if it's from a genuine Aisin kit. :p

Sometimes, it makes it easier to spot a non-genuine article if it contains little spelling misteaks.:)

 

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That new belt is fine as long as it's from a genuine Aisan kit.
Even better if it's from a genuine Aisin kit. :p

Sometimes, it makes it easier to spot a non-genuine article if it contains little spelling misteaks.:)

This is the belt that should be in the kit.
Can be bought separately...
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the only thing I used the "special" crank pulley holder socket for was during the reinstallation torque of the crank pulley bolt.

install is re-torque to 48 ft/lb THEN torque an ADDITIONAL 60 degrees
follow the factory service manual and you'll be fine
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
So, in terms of progress, I've got the crankshaft bolt out (ended up using 2 impacts, I bought a Dewalt DCF899 thinking I would need it, but seemed like my Porter Cable cordless impact with the Lislie socket loosened it just fine). I also got all timing covers off.

Although, there's one thing I am a bit perplexed on. Upon taking the crankshaft bolt out, I noticed that the end of the bolt is "wet" and has a smell, I'm assuming motor oil? I also noticed the bolt hole being wet. I know that people advise lubricating the end of the crankshaft bolt with oil before re-torquing, but is it like this from the factory? Could this be a sign of a leak?

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It's a blind hole with no way for oil to get the bolt. If there was oil on it, it was put on to provide lubrication while it was being torqued to specification.
 

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Glorificatus Oleum Mutante
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You have oil leaking, but it isn't crankshaft pulley bolt related.
 

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I'm guessing the grease/oil on the casing around the timing cover is an indicator of an oil leak?
It's engine oil with dust. Could be the front main seal. After the timing covers come off, it may tell a little more as to where it's from. Have you replaced the PCV valve?
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
It's engine oil with dust. Could be the front main seal. After the timing covers come off, it may tell a little more as to where it's from. Have you replaced the PCV valve?
As far as I'm aware, no, the PCV valve has never been replaced.
 

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PCV is an easy and cheap minor repair that can make a big difference in crankcase pressures.
maybe consider running a high mileage oil through to help rejuvenate old seals. mobil 1 has one of the best additive packages for slowing down and possibly stopping certain oil leaks in their HM formulated synthetic oil
 

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PCV is an easy and cheap minor repair that can make a big difference in crankcase pressures.
maybe consider running a high mileage oil through to help rejuvenate old seals. mobil 1 has one of the best additive packages for slowing down and possibly stopping certain oil leaks in their HM formulated synthetic oil
Not knocking high milage oil, but if it is high milage (150k+) and the plan is to keep it running for another 100k, I'd reseal the oil pan and oil pump, replacing the oil hole gasket, oil filter housing gasket, front main seal and cam seals. If you dont want to go that far at least the oil filter housing gasket, main seal and cam seals while the crankshaft pulley is off. Especially if there is oil under the timing covers. Can always use the poor boy method to remove cam sprockets, lol.
 

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Can always use the poor boy method to remove cam sprockets, lol.
Pour boy method is to pour in a bottle of ATP AT-205 Re-Seal and drive for 50 miles. :) Problem solved, most of the time.

(Only hard part is to find some in stock these days.)
 

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Pour boy method is to pour in a bottle of ATP AT-205 Re-Seal and drive for 50 miles. :) Problem solved, most of the time.

(Only hard part is to find some in stock these days.)
That AT stuff isn't exactly cheap. If your DIYing the timing belt water pump job, it'd be cheaper to buy the gaskets and seals for a long term fix. I consider my labor as free.
¯\(ツ)
 
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And worth every penny?
Call us crazy, but some of us enjoy it, especially today with the cooler weather. 😁👍🏻
 
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