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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone I’m going to be doing the timing belt and water pump on my 2005 Pilot I bought the Honda kit, my question is do they sell a tool to hold the cam gears in place? I’m nervous putting the belt on that the rear cam gear is going to jump and move. If the cam does jump what direction can I turn the cam gear without causing any valve damage clockwise or counterclockwise or does it matter?? I’ve done some reading and watched some videos but seem to get some mixed results any help would be absolutely amazing thank you very much!!!
Oh also does anyone have the factory torque specs for the pulleys and whatnot thanks!
 

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You do not need the tool if you follow the process. Once the crank and cams are aligned, there is no jump. Just do not turn either once the belt is off and it will be hunky-dory.
For a good video watch the 1A parts girl change the belt, but take her instructions with a grain of salt as her choice of tools is odd from my perspective.
Find and read my write-up on doing the TB and remember: never turn the crank by the bolt, ever! Only turn by the pulley with the key in place.
Also, I did not remove the plugs as I am a lazy f__k. That made turning the cranck slower and harder, but it might contribute to the stability of the cams.

For torque specs look no further than in the FSM. It's downloadable from the sticky thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks can I was watching some videos where people put a wrench on the front cam gear and turned it clockwise slightly so I wasn’t sure I watched that lady’s from a1a several times and she makes it look simple, if a camshaft does end up moving by accident what direction am I able to safely turn it to line it back up??
 

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I suggest only watching the videos where they show belt being put on the pulleys, not the ones that just cut to the belt on. That will let you know what you need to do to install the belt, which may involve moving the pulley slightly. used a boxed end wrench, no ratchets.
 

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If the camshaft moves only a couple teeth, then turning it back in either direction is fine. The rotation direction is suggested to follow the normal rotation of the engine only when you are going further than 1-2 teeth. If you time everything perfectly before releasing the tensioner pressure, then it should not move at all.
 

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If the camshaft moves only a couple teeth, then turning it back in either direction is fine. The rotation direction is suggested to follow the normal rotation of the engine only when you are going further than 1-2 teeth. If you time everything perfectly before releasing the tensioner pressure, then it should not move at all.
If a cam shifts, it's going to move at most a quarter turn. Just reset it back to position by that quarter turn. Don't rotate all the way around to reset, or you will probably bend some valves.
I recommend the Aisin parts kit for this job. Includes belt, new tensioner, new idler pulleys, and new water pump. Also includes a useful instruction sheet with torque specs.
I also suggest that you review videos on removing the crank pulley nut. This can be a real challenge, depending on your tool and skill set.
 

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One tip for you. Get one of those white or brightly colored sharpies.
Before you remove the old belt, transfer on to the belt every timing mark.
then remove the old belt.
Now put the new belt and old belt on top of each other and transfer the marks on to the new belt.
install new belt.
I am sure because you are being so careful, that you'll do the job right first time.
 

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the tricky cam to align is the rear cam gear. After installing the new belt and tensioner, rotate the system and check the alignment marks (note I have the spark plugs out during this and install new ones). One tooth off will cause cold temperature start problems (my experience).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well everyone just a update on how it went the rear cam wouldn’t line up perfectly putting the new belt back on I tried and tried and it was off by like half a tooth so I moved the cam gear slightly to the right and bam it spun instantly to 2 o’clock after lots of frustration I was able to line all three up by hand and it seems to be running good crosses fingers it’s been 3 days now I torqued everything to specs, it it was bad do you think I would know by now?? Thanks for everyone’s help you guys are so awesome it’s great to be in a good forum again!
 

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Oh, boy, should have just left it there and slipped the belt on. Then it would have lined up w/o spinning.
Yes, you would have known by now. If it fires right up, runs w/o any sort of vibration, and your gas mileage has not changed, then you are good.
 
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