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I don’t recall what I paid but it was closer to $200 something or less for the impact wrench (tool only) as I’m already invested in M12+M18 power tools.
I've got 2 Dewalt XR5 20v batteries. They may have a decent impact.
 

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Home Depot has the 2767, with two batteries, charger and case, on sale for $449 through today.
Keep going ⬇
 

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Home Depot has the 2767, with two batteries, charger and case, on sale for $449 through today.
I don’t recall what I paid but it was closer to $200 something or less for the impact wrench (tool only) as I’m already invested in M12+M18 power tools.
How about this one from Dewalt? Since I got the batteries.
135397
 

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That could work. Try it with the Lisle socket.
I guess maybe we should ask if anyone else has been successful with one. I don't have a timing belt job to do right now.
 

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I guess maybe we should ask if anyone else has been successful with one. I don't have a timing belt job to do right now.
I’ve done 2 Honda/Acura timing belts jobs with my Bosch 1/2 in high torque impact with the Lisle Harmonic Balancer Socket. Gets it off the first time without any problems.


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For many, the $500+ cost of the wrench plus the kit of sockets and the Aisin parts will be a major portion of the cost of having the whole job done at an independent shop or even the dealer when it's on special. So while us tool-a-holics don't hesitate to find projects solely as an excuse to buy cool tools like these, Pete the Pilot Owner won't have much luck justifying the purchase just for this job.

And that tool-a-holic thing? I can quit anytime I want. ..., yep, anytime I want.
 
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How about this one from Dewalt? Since I got the batteries
Keep in mind these big impact wrenches are heavy, bulky and limited use. I use the big impact wrenches installing my Jeep lift as it saves time & effort with big bolts on the track bar, control arms, drag link, etc. Both Dewalt & Milwaukee have smaller impact wrenches which can have wider use in the type of car projects you have done.
 

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Keep in mind these big impact wrenches are heavy, bulky and limited use. I use the big impact wrenches installing my Jeep lift as it saves time & effort with big bolts on the track bar, control arms, drag link, etc. Both Dewalt & Milwaukee have smaller impact wrenches which can have wider use in the type of car projects you have done.
I could use the big one if it really can bust a pully bolt or CV axle nut etc.
This Milwaukee 3/8 rachet is what I've been using under the hood. Our 2nd one. Wore out the 1st.
135408
 
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I could use the big one if it really can bust a pully bolt or CV axle nut etc.
This Milwaukee 3/8 rachet is what I've been using under the hood. Our 2nd one. Wore out the 1st. View attachment 135408
Didn’t think much of cordless ratchets until I tried one. Speeded the installation and removal of repetitive bolts or nuts and functions like a ratchet when you have to break them loose (y)
 

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I've just used a very large 6 foot pipe and a breaker bar on my IS300. I haven't done the Pilot yet, but I can't see why this with a pulley holder wouldn't get it done.

What I use is similar to this:

 

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I've just used a very large 6 foot pipe and a breaker bar on my IS300. I haven't done the Pilot yet, but I can't see why this with a pulley holder wouldn't get it done
Sometimes using a cheater bar and some muscle can get the job done too.
 

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I've just used a very large 6 foot pipe and a breaker bar on my IS300. I haven't done the Pilot yet, but I can't see why this with a pulley holder wouldn't get it done.

What I use is similar to this:

The removable 3' 7 handle on my 3 ton Pittsburgh floor jack has been an un-planned cheater bar on many occasions. They should advertise it as such. Would be a great selling point.
 
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I kept a small collection of 1/2"-drive "breaker bars", where the square head or the pivot pin had mysteriously given way when a few extra feet of handle as used. They were reminders about using the right too for the job. Plus a lot of flex before something actually moved when I did have success. A couple ended up with handles that looked like a pretzel after a job. Changing to the 3/4"-drive stuff stepped everything up a big notch. I lived on 1/4- and 3/8-drive tools for a long time, working on interesting European cars exclusively. I had to buy 1/2" drive when American cars came into the family, a virus first imported with girlfriends. A few large fasteners on the German toys finally forced me to adopt a limited set of 3/4-drive tools, such things as axle nuts and crank bolts with torque specs in the 350 lbs/ft range. You can't get a 1/2"-drive torque wrench with that capacity, so the choice was made for me. Now it's sockets and deep sockets, a few extensions, ratchet, flex handle (breaker bar), a handy adapter for the 6'-long demolition bar as a handle, and a couple (!) torque wrenches; the first one "only" went to 300 lbs/ft, so another with even larger capacity just showed up one day.

In general, it's a very rare day when something bigger than 3/8-drive comes out of a tool cabinet. Do I need a 900-1200 lbs/ft battery-electric impact gun? Not so far. There are several timing belt candidates in the fleet, each on its own seven-year belt replacement schedule. One will never see an impact gun touch anything on it, the others aren't as sensitive to tool use but with only a couple fasteners like axle nuts and crank bolts, not enough to justify a new $$$ power tool when existing manual tools easily get the job done.
 

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I kept a small collection of 1/2"-drive "breaker bars", where the square head or the pivot pin had mysteriously given way when a few extra feet of handle as used. They were reminders about using the right too for the job. Plus a lot of flex before something actually moved when I did have success. A couple ended up with handles that looked like a pretzel after a job. Changing to the 3/4"-drive stuff stepped everything up a big notch. I lived on 1/4- and 3/8-drive tools for a long time, working on interesting European cars exclusively. I had to buy 1/2" drive when American cars came into the family, a virus first imported with girlfriends. A few large fasteners on the German toys finally forced me to adopt a limited set of 3/4-drive tools, such things as axle nuts and crank bolts with torque specs in the 350 lbs/ft range. You can't get a 1/2"-drive torque wrench with that capacity, so the choice was made for me. Now it's sockets and deep sockets, a few extensions, ratchet, flex handle (breaker bar), a handy adapter for the 6'-long demolition bar as a handle, and a couple (!) torque wrenches; the first one "only" went to 300 lbs/ft, so another with even larger capacity just showed up one day.

In general, it's a very rare day when something bigger than 3/8-drive comes out of a tool cabinet. Do I need a 900-1200 lbs/ft battery-electric impact gun? Not so far. There are several timing belt candidates in the fleet, each on its own seven-year belt replacement schedule. One will never see an impact gun touch anything on it, the others aren't as sensitive to tool use but with only a couple fasteners like axle nuts and crank bolts, not enough to justify a new $$$ power tool when existing manual tools easily get the job done.
I'm for the right tool for the right job. But there is a large amount of gushing pride that comes when that pully bolt pops doing it the manly way with pieced together crap. :p
 

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Does your parts store have this socket from Lisle available for loan?
On one of the SMA videos, with an impact wrench, it made quick work of removing the bolt.
77080 19mm Harmonic Balancer Socket

Lisle heavy-duty socket on the left, compared to a standard socket:


I use
Does your parts store have this socket from Lisle available for loan?
On one of the SMA videos, with an impact wrench, it made quick work of removing the bolt.
77080 19mm Harmonic Balancer Socket

Lisle heavy-duty socket on the left, compared to a standard socket:

This is the way to go. I put one of these on my Kobalt air gun rated @1,000lbs of torque and it removed the bolt lin about 20 seconds. When you remove the motor mount, take the horizontal bolt that joins the two halves out of the middle. For the half of the mount on the subframe, only remove the two bolts closest to the engine. Just loosen the 3rd bolt and the rest of the mount should swing out of the way. The half left on the mount needs to be removed entirely. Good luck!
 
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