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Just FYI using oem parts for this
Thanks
I was just curious on your stating that your using oem parts? Are you buying each part individually from Honda? RockAuto sells the Aisin kit (TKH002). It is well established that Aisin makes the water pump for Honda. The rest of the kit also contains parts from Honda part makers. The price will be significantly less.
135275
 

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Actually, Aisin does not make the water pump for these engines. The Honda water pump is made by YNA. However, Aisin makes water pumps for older Honda vehicles and other manufacturers like Toyota and does make many of the other parts on Honda and other Japanese cars.

Aisin is owned by Toyota (IIRC) and is high quality stuff, every bit as good as the YNA that comes originally on Honda. Everything else in the kit is the same as the Honda parts, though. Aisin is all I use and have never had a comeback or failure. Can't say that for Gates, Dayco and the other brands. I've seen those water pumps leak. Never seen a YNA or Aisin pump leak.
 

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Actually, Aisin does not make the water pump for these engines. The Honda water pump is made by YNA. However, Aisin makes water pumps for older Honda vehicles and other manufacturers like Toyota and does make many of the other parts on Honda and other Japanese cars.

Aisin is owned by Toyota (IIRC) and is high quality stuff, every bit as good as the YNA that comes originally on Honda. Everything else in the kit is the same as the Honda parts, though. Aisin is all I use and have never had a comeback or failure. Can't say that for Gates, Dayco and the other brands. I've seen those water pumps leak. Never seen a YNA or Aisin pump leak.
Ok, guess those old Honda's with Aisin water pumps shows my age. Lol
Thanks for the clarification.
Same here, I've always used Aisin on many vehicles with no issues.
 

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Dude! Thanks! Live the rock. Didn’t realize they had this kit, cheaper than scamazon too
Don't forget to use the 5% off discount code for RockAuto. You may know that already.
 
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Our parts store let's you check out special tools with a deposit (48 hours). I checked out this tool. View attachment 135235 Working on a 2012 Crosstour with a Honda V6. Breaking the pully bolt was still quite a challenge. Using all 1/2 drive extensions, jack stand and a 3 foot cheater pipe, I twisted cheap extentions like butter. I went to Harbor Freight and bought impact grade. These I did not twist off but even with a large breaker bar and cheater pipe and my 199 1/2 pounds it wouldn't budge. I had the front bumper cover off since I had just finished up working on the front end. My son saw me struggling. He simply shortened the extension just enough to get past the pully. The car was jacked up just high enough for the breaker bar to clear the floor. He sat down on the floor row boat style with his feet on the wheel and he hulked it. I was impressed and he could brag. The simple explanation is the short extension didn't flex and he was able to break it loose.
Or you can rent a 3/4 air gun to take pulley bolt off
 

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Or you can rent a 3/4 air gun to take pulley bolt off
How much air pressure do you need to operate that? I might need a bigger compressor. Not to mention the right size hose and connection.
 

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Our parts store let's you check out special tools with a deposit (48 hours). I checked out this tool. View attachment 135235 Working on a 2012 Crosstour with a Honda V6. Breaking the pully bolt was still quite a challenge. Using all 1/2 drive extensions, jack stand and a 3 foot cheater pipe, I twisted cheap extentions like butter. I went to Harbor Freight and bought impact grade. These I did not twist off but even with a large breaker bar and cheater pipe and my 199 1/2 pounds it wouldn't budge. I had the front bumper cover off since I had just finished up working on the front end. My son saw me struggling. He simply shortened the extension just enough to get past the pully. The car was jacked up just high enough for the breaker bar to clear the floor. He sat down on the floor row boat style with his feet on the wheel and he hulked it. I was impressed and he could brag. The simple explanation is the short extension didn't flex and he was able to break it loose.
I bought one of these and it didn't work at all; used a large impact wrench for about 1/2Hr. and didn't loosen the bolt was to loose/small in the hex. Ended up buying a 1-1/2" hex bushing, 1-1/2" tee and a 1-1/2" x 10" nipple. Ground the bushing hex down to fit very snuggly in the crankshaft pulley hex; welded the bushing to the tee and used the nipple with support to keep the "tool" in place and used the socket with extension and (elevated car) supported it on the floor. Used the starter to (short/quick turn) turn engine, did it twice and the bolt loosened.
 

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It's a very bad idea to do the starter bump method on these. The starter is computer controlled and will stay engaged until the engine starts or for some period of time like 5-10 seconds. You do risk damage to the starter, the flexplate, or even the crankshaft.

Attempting to hold the harmonic balancer with the tool does work but you really need 3/4" drive tools because even 1/2" drive tools will flex too much and either break or hit you in the face.

Heat can damage the balancer. On some vehicles the crank sensor is behind the balancer, as well. I don't think that's the case on the 2012 but it is on older models.

The best way is with that Milwaukee 2767 pictured above along with the Lisle crankshaft bolt socket. Spins it off like it's nothing. That's the setup I use after spending way too much time on way too many cars trying to get that bolt off.
Disconnect all the computer controls, connect the starter directly and voila, that's the only way I got it loose took only two "jerks" with the starter. Although, I bought one of the standard tools for this job at Amazon and it didn't work at all using a large impact wrench for about 1/2Hr. and didn't loosen the bolt was to loose/small in the hex. Ended up buying a 1-1/2" hex bushing, 1-1/2" tee and a 1-1/2" x 10" nipple. Ground the bushing hex down to fit very snuggly in the crankshaft pulley hex; welded the bushing to the tee and used the nipple with support to keep the "tool" in place and used the socket with extension and (elevated car) supported it on the floor. Used the starter to (short/quick turn) turn engine, did it twice and the bolt loosened.
 

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I bought one of these and it didn't work at all; used a large impact wrench for about 1/2Hr. and didn't loosen the bolt was to loose/small in the hex. Ended up buying a 1-1/2" hex bushing, 1-1/2" tee and a 1-1/2" x 10" nipple. Ground the bushing hex down to fit very snuggly in the crankshaft pulley hex; welded the bushing to the tee and used the nipple with support to keep the "tool" in place and used the socket with extension and (elevated car) supported it on the floor. Used the starter to (short/quick turn) turn engine, did it twice and the bolt loosened.
The crank pully removal tool can be tricky to keep in place. I have on occasion had someone to hold it in place for me until you get preasure on it. Of course, with a 1/2 rachet, you have to get it in a bind against lower control arm or CV axle etc. It has work for me every time.
 

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1 anyone have the service data for this job on a 2012? 2 any tips for the crank bolt or any other things to be aware of so I can prepare before I start the job. Just FYI using oem parts for this
Thanks
Impact wrenches do not work to remove the crank bolt. The 1/2" drive extension is too flexible, it acts like a torque limiting extension used when tightening wheel nuts.

I've had better luck with 3/4 drive impact, but doubt you have that. I'd suggest a 3/4" breaker bar with a cheater extension on it. My 1/2 breaker bar need a 6ft piece of pipe to crack the crank bolt free.

I'd advise you watch a few YouTube if you have not done this. It is easy to screw up the timing mark alignment. That will trash your engine as its an interference design.

Roll the engine over by hand several times to check for interference by engaging starter. Check that all timing marks end up back where they should.

Never had a problem with anything else. Probably done this 5 times on various Hondoo's.

Replace the serpentine and its tensioner and TB tensioner while you are in there.
 

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Just did mine with the Asin kit from Rock Auto. Great parts. Thanks to YouTube for all the videos that walked me through it. I bought the pull holder and socket from Amazon and the Asin kit from Rock Auto.
To remove the bolt I tried my Craftsman impact wrench, then I used my neighbors IG impact gun and his Milwaukee 1/2” I pact gun. No lunch using my small Rigid air compressor. He brought over his service truck with an air compressor and used his IG impact gun and it came loose in like 6 seconds. The trick was the has 150psi of air on his system; I only have 125psi.
good luck
 

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FWIW... I added a separate port on my compressor with a big (1/2") hose just for the 3/4" impact. I used it a couple times on other big projects, but on those there really isn't room for that huge impact gun for crank bolts. Instead, I found a 3/4" socket adapter that lets me slide a 6' demolition bar through the eye. It works out to a little over 1000 lbs/ft with me hanging on it, more dynamic torque if I bounce on it. I have yet to pull a Honda crank bolt, but this setup makes short work of similar crank bolts in the other cars in the fleet. Axle bolts typically have even greater torque specs, and it doesn't strain a bit on those. Fig Newton reminds us that a longer lever can move the earth. We are 'only' looking at the crank bolt.

Know also that you can rent these tools at any decent rental place. Add the 3/4" torque wrench to the ticket so you can put it back together correctly.
 

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I was absolutely surprised to see no one jumping on the 3/4” impact train to begin with.

this gun is the most affordable 3/4” tool ive seen and has proven to me that it works time after time on stubborn bolts.
I would like to see this in acton. I'd be more apt to buy this because of its portability. Will it really break a pully bolt loose that's ridiculously torqued and cooked on for 100k+ miles?
 

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Real tool reviews tested the Milwaukee M18 2763 Fuel High Torque 1/2” on a Honda crank bolt
135392

? o_O
Umm, no. $545
I'm not paying that to remove a random crank pully bolt.
 
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