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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1 anyone have the service data for this job on a 2012? 2 any tips for the crank bolt or any other things to be aware of so I can prepare before I start the job. Just FYI using oem parts for this
Thanks
 

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1 anyone have the service data for this job on a 2012? 2 any tips for the crank bolt or any other things to be aware of so I can prepare before I start the job. Just FYI using oem parts for this
Thanks
I have a 2012 and recently did the complete timing belt, waterpump, pullies. The crankshaft bolt was a huge pain. My impact wouldn't break it free. I ended up buying a bunch of extensions so I could use a 5 foot pipe on a breaker bar and heated the bolt. The motor mount was also challenging. I tried to work from in the wheel well, but soo realized I needed to remove the whole mount. So I would suggest removing the mount from the top. Let me know if you have any other questions.
 

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1 anyone have the service data for this job on a 2012? 2 any tips for the crank bolt or any other things to be aware of so I can prepare before I start the job. Just FYI using oem parts for this
Thanks
Just look up timing belt water pump 2012 Honda V6 on YouTube. Watch several to get an idea.
 

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Just a couple of tips. First on, I would agree with 12hondapilotshadetree. I would recommend that you do it all at once, timing belt, water pump, idler pulleys, belt tensioner along with the serpentine belt, tensioner and seals. There is no reason to do just the timing belt only to have to go back in a few months later for a water pump, leaking seals etc.

Second, If you have a" rent a lift" garage in your area, take the vehicle there and rent a bay. It is so much easier to do when you can get where ever you need with out lying on cold concrete.
 

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Our parts store let's you check out special tools with a deposit (48 hours). I checked out this tool.
135235
Working on a 2012 Crosstour with a Honda V6. Breaking the pully bolt was still quite a challenge. Using all 1/2 drive extensions, jack stand and a 3 foot cheater pipe, I twisted cheap extentions like butter. I went to Harbor Freight and bought impact grade. These I did not twist off but even with a large breaker bar and cheater pipe and my 199 1/2 pounds it wouldn't budge. I had the front bumper cover off since I had just finished up working on the front end. My son saw me struggling. He simply shortened the extension just enough to get past the pully. The car was jacked up just high enough for the breaker bar to clear the floor. He sat down on the floor row boat style with his feet on the wheel and he hulked it. I was impressed and he could brag. The simple explanation is the short extension didn't flex and he was able to break it loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I suppose since it’ll be jacked up as a resort I could lower the vehicle on the breaker bar for weight and leverage eh?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
FWIW for those that used heat...would the heat pose a possibility of damage to the harmonic balancer itself?
 

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FWIW for those that used heat...would the heat pose a possibility of damage to the harmonic balancer itself?
The answer is yes, if you used to much heat. You could hurt the bolt too, if you use to much.
 

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I suppose since it’ll be jacked up as a resort I could lower the vehicle on the breaker bar for weight and leverage eh?
Hmmm.... Possibly with both front tires removed?
 

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I've seen Ford videos of people turning the engine over with the ignition disconnected in order to break the bolt free.
Yes,
It's just the fear of damaging the starter or flywheel. Lots of people have done it that way. I don't know of anyone that has ever regretted it. The starter was certainty not designed to withstand the impact of such force. But it has.
 

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Our parts store let's you check out special tools with a deposit (48 hours).
Does your parts store have this socket from Lisle available for loan?
On one of the SMA videos, with an impact wrench, it made quick work of removing the bolt.
77080 19mm Harmonic Balancer Socket

Lisle heavy-duty socket on the left, compared to a standard socket:

 

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I had both the Harmonic bolt socket with a Rigid 18v 1/2" impact with supposed 620ft/lbs of torque and the crank pulley tool with an 18" extension and a 5ft breaker bar and still could not get the crank bolt off. Ended up using the assistance of the starter to get the bolt off. Make sure to pull the fuel pump fuse. Only need to crank it for less than half a second.
 

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I had both the Harmonic bolt socket with a Rigid 18v 1/2" impact with supposed 620ft/lbs of torque and the crank pulley tool with an 18" extension and a 5ft breaker bar and still could not get the crank bolt off. Ended up using the assistance of the starter to get the bolt off. Make sure to pull the fuel pump fuse. Only need to crank it for less than half a second.
It's relatively easy to pull your front bumper cover. That would allow you to sit on the floor row boat style and HulK it towards you. I'd do that before I stress my starter. But that's just me. You already have the wheel liner off it's just a matter of pressing the tabs down under the headlights with a screwdriver so you don't break them. They pop loose easily.
 

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It's a very bad idea to do the starter bump method on these. The starter is computer controlled and will stay engaged until the engine starts or for some period of time like 5-10 seconds. You do risk damage to the starter, the flexplate, or even the crankshaft.

Attempting to hold the harmonic balancer with the tool does work but you really need 3/4" drive tools because even 1/2" drive tools will flex too much and either break or hit you in the face.

Heat can damage the balancer. On some vehicles the crank sensor is behind the balancer, as well. I don't think that's the case on the 2012 but it is on older models.

The best way is with that Milwaukee 2767 pictured above along with the Lisle crankshaft bolt socket. Spins it off like it's nothing. That's the setup I use after spending way too much time on way too many cars trying to get that bolt off.
 

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It's a very bad idea to do the starter bump method on these. The starter is computer controlled and will stay engaged until the engine starts or for some period of time like 5-10 seconds. You do risk damage to the starter, the flexplate, or even the crankshaft.

Attempting to hold the harmonic balancer with the tool does work but you really need 3/4" drive tools because even 1/2" drive tools will flex too much and either break or hit you in the face.

Heat can damage the balancer. On some vehicles the crank sensor is behind the balancer, as well. I don't think that's the case on the 2012 but it is on older models.

The best way is with that Milwaukee 2767 pictured above along with the Lisle crankshaft bolt socket. Spins it off like it's nothing. That's the setup I use after spending way too much time on way too many cars trying to get that bolt off.
Yes.
My plan is next time to have 3/4 stuff. No Flexing.
 

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Yes.
My plan is next time to have 3/4 stuff. No Flexing.
Oh, it still flexes. Just not as much. I broke my 19mm impact socket (1/2" drive with a 3/4-1/2 reducer) using the 3/4" tools. By the time you buy all the 3/4 drive tools you'll need, with extensions and a breaker bar, you can pick up that beast of an impact, Milwaukee 2767 and the Lisle socket.
 
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