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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced both inner and outer tie rods this week, and had two questions:

1. I pulled off the inner tie rod boot, and there was some type of oil in the boot, and leaked onto the floor a little. I guessing it was power steering fluid. Is that normal? It was coated in the boot.

2. So I didn't straighten the steering wheel before replacing, which probably would have been a good idea. But, I did count the turns for the outer tie rods, as some videos suggest on Youtube. The steering wheel was a little off center before I replaced them. However, when I was finished, the car was driving straight with the steering wheel off center by a quarter turn. I took it to the shop and they said they may need to pull off the steering wheel if there isn't enough adjustment. My question is, if I left the steering wheel at the same turn, and installed the outer tie rod as the same number of turns as the previous one, why would the wheel be off so much, or need to be removed to be adjusted correctly? Basically, I attempted to remove and replace exactly as the car had been with the old parts. . . .Only thing I can think of, is I miscounted, or didn't turn the tie rod enough/too much. . .I understand what the shop is saying, but don't see the logic behind why that may be the case
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So one last question: I got the car back, and the number of threads showing on the tie rod is drastically shorter than what was on there before. There is only 3/4 threads showing on inner tie rod, where before, there was like 2 inches. Is that going to be a problem in the future for adjustment as they wear out? It's like 8 threads showing.
 

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You replaced inner and outer tie rods--sounds good. Then you had a shop reset the steering toe-in and recenter your steering wheel. Good idea. Now you are concerned about the adjustment done by the shop to your outer tie rod. If the car drives straight, with the wheel centered, then don't worry. They had to adjust the sleeve to make up for where you set the inner tie rod. If it works right, don't worry, be happy. The toe in doesn't need to be reset due to wear. You're done with that.

If you had a little PS fluid inside the boot, then just keep an eye on that area from time to time. If the leak gets worse, then you are looking at a new rack and pinion assembly. If your rack starts to drip on the driveway, and you keep having to top up the PS fluid, it's time for a new rack $$.
 

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Thank you, that is what I gathered. The fluid is definately not supposed to be in the boot, as the honda service manual has that as a symptom of a failing piston seal, which indeed requires a new rack. Does anyone have experience with the Lucas Power Steering leak stop as a long term solution?
 

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Thank you, that is what I gathered. The fluid is definately not supposed to be in the boot, as the honda service manual has that as a symptom of a failing piston seal, which indeed requires a new rack. Does anyone have experience with the Lucas Power Steering leak stop as a long term solution?
I wanted to backtrack a little from my previous post. After thinking about it, I realize that your shop could have reset your steering off center, if they did in fact pull the steering wheel and reset it. Try this: jack up the front of your Pilot, using a good hydraulic jack under the center front jacking point. With the tires just off the ground, and the wheels straight ahead and the steering wheel centered, check how much rotation is required of the steering wheel from center to full left lock. Then do the same check from center to full right lock. The steering wheel rotation should match, either side of center. If there is a significant difference from left to right, the straight ahead position is not truly centered on the steering rack, and you could have problems with excessive steering in one direction, or limited steering in the other direction.
Regarding Lucas PS leak stop, I have no recommendations either way. I know Hondas are fussy about the PS fluid.
 
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