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Slight tangent... Do the radiators have a history of shorter service life? If so, what's the common failure mode, excluding accident damage? Is it coolant related?
One could say it's coolant if not replaced (inside out)(Dexcool experience in this thread). But more often, I'd say failure would come from the outside in because of the corrosive elements eatting up the aluminum. Wash your radiator with fresh water from time to time.
 

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One could say it's coolant if not replaced (inside out)(Dexcool experience in this thread). But more often, I'd say failure would come from the outside in because of the corrosive elements eatting up the aluminum. Wash your radiator with fresh water from time to time.
Don't forget to use this stuff:

 

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Don't forget to use this stuff:

I've never used a product like this because I've never stuck a water hose (tap water) in my radiator. In other words, don't contaminate your system. Change your coolant out every 5 years or so (or with TB WP job) and you should be fine. Flush thoroughly with distilled water and add green Prestone concentrate. 😁
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L👀ky what I found on Wally World .com, even cheaper than the Peak tester. A must have to stay brand loyal.
 

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I add redline water wetter after the flush. Supposed to help with cooling efficiency
I've been monitoring my temps. So far so good this summer. It's hot, but not as hot as we've seen in past years.
 

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I added water wetter a few years back to a 5.7L Tundra......ScanGauge showed zero, zip, nada change in coolant temp.
I'm not one for snake oil, but hey, if you got a problem, and as a last resort......, I guess...., so.
 
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I just no longer think a little bottle of pink liquid will rectify a problem, especially after seeing zero, zip, nada results in an perfectly clean/properly functioning cooling system.........but hey, their advertising got me hook, line, and sinker. 🤦‍♂️ Fool me once, but not.........
 

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I've used water wetter in race cars to improve heat transfer around hot spots in the engine. Will it cause the coolant to be colder than the thermostat set temp? No. WW lowers the surface tension in the water (or coolant...) to keep steam bubbles smaller when there's a local spot hot enough to boil the coolant to vapor even briefly. Vapor doesn't carry heat well, so the hot spots continue to grow and the heat migrates to another part of the engine. Reduce the load even briefly or change coolant flow, and things can settle down. Few races include full load 100% of the time. But having a sudden increase in coolant volume can cause pressure relief (coolant loss) and a death spiral in cooling system performance.

In road cars, it can be a patch to help hide poor system performance. Got a car that's boiling over or even just overheating with internal issues? Thermostat is all the way open and coolant temps are still dangerously high? It might help. For the rest of us, it doesn't do anything.

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One of the toys was having a symptom of high coolant temp in 95º ambients and 80+ MPH with AC running. Gauge slowly moves up. Slow down a bit and the gauge drops. I was in denial about the stuck thermostat for a long time. Did a normal-service coolant change, added 2 Water Wetters (4 gal system). The gauge reading dropped about 10º in the same conditions. So it does help when the performance is otherwise marginal. Changing the thermostat instantly solved the symptom by the way. I was in stubborn-and-stupid mode, and serviced everything else on the way to a $20 fix.
 
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