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Made in Canada. Got to be good stuff.
I didn't know they had coolant trees in Canada. Wonder how much fresh coolant sap you have to boil to get one gallon of concentrated coolant?
And herein we find the root of the controversy. How much boiling is needed to evaporate the water to get the "right" concentration. The boiling temperature goes up progressively as the concentration increases.

Then, and here's the truly amazing irony, you then add back the same amount of distilled water that you boiled out to make the concentrate. Doesn't this curl and scrunch your eyebrows into double question marks?? 🙄
 

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And herein we find the root of the controversy. How much boiling is needed to evaporate the water to get the "right" concentration. The boiling temperature goes up progressively as the concentration increases.

Then, and here's the truly amazing irony, you then add back the same amount of distilled water that you boiled out to make the concentrate. Doesn't this curl and scrunch your eyebrows into double question marks?? 🙄
🤔 Hmm, so what's that mean if you have a 60/40 mix?
 

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I didn't know they had coolant trees in Canada. Wonder how much fresh coolant sap you have to boil to get one gallon of concentrated coolant?
I would think a product made to go through the harsh winters of Canada would be overkill for most of us?
 
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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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I actually got that at Canadian Tire a few months ago. Haven't had to use it yet.






I didn't know they had coolant trees in Canada. Wonder how much fresh coolant sap you have to boil to get one gallon of concentrated coolant?
First of all, use the correct terminology. Up here they're called antifreeze trees.


Second, you're a little late. We're already well past power steering fluid season.

152435





For Antifreeze season, you have to tap the trees in the early summer, when the moss on the trees is at its greenest.

152436




Of course, you'll recognize that that's the North American Green variety.



I believe the Asian Blue variety comes from virgin forests in northwestern Hokkaido and the two small adjacent islands, though I hear connoisseurs give high marks to an unrefined, unblended ersatz moonshine version from the Blue Ridge Mountains of Appalachia.

152437
 

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And herein we find the root of the controversy. How much boiling is needed to evaporate the water to get the "right" concentration. The boiling temperature goes up progressively as the concentration increases.

Then, and here's the truly amazing irony, you then add back the same amount of distilled water that you boiled out to make the concentrate. Doesn't this curl and scrunch your eyebrows into double question marks?? 🙄
If it's Canadian NOTHING scrunches my eyebrows.
 

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'Blue' has been discontinued and replaced with 'Blue I' for Acura, Honda and Subaru, and 'Blue II' for Infiniti, Nissan, Mazda and Mitsubishi.
OEM Blue I - The Easy Match Antifreeze / Coolant for Your Vehicle
OEM Blue II - The Easy Match Antifreeze / Coolant for Your Vehicle
 

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On a serious note --

Over the life of several of the other toys, recommendations for coolant have changed or maybe "refined" as more life damage has been recorded. A couple of them got green when new, then an almost-clear called G05, and then a series of different blue coolants that changed more often than I changed the coolant in the cars. The most-current for the aluminum-engined German cars is G48. Point being, the coolant we pick today may not be as correct tomorrow, especially if it's a dart-board selection among aftermarket offerings based on ad copy and color.

As much as I like to save a dollar, the two- to four-year change intervals in the flock here are long enough for me to save up enough to at least put Honda coolant in the Pilot.



Although, especially with the exchange rate as it is, that Canadian sap sauce is looking pretty attractive right now...🤔
 

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On a serious note --

Over the life of several of the other toys, recommendations for coolant have changed or maybe "refined" as more life damage has been recorded. A couple of them got green when new, then an almost-clear called G05, and then a series of different blue coolants that changed more often than I changed the coolant in the cars. The most-current for the aluminum-engined German cars is G48. Point being, the coolant we pick today may not be as correct tomorrow, especially if it's a dart-board selection among aftermarket offerings based on ad copy and color.

As much as I like to save a dollar, the two- to four-year change intervals in the flock here are long enough for me to save up enough to at least put Honda coolant in the Pilot.



Although, especially with the exchange rate as it is, that Canadian sap sauce is looking pretty attractive right now...🤔
But, But Dr Bob, I've been running Prestone Multi-Vehicle Concentrate mixed with grocery store distilled water for a very long time now, logging thousands of miles, and even throwing a water pump out on display to prove there is no whammies using this coolant in a Honda vehicle. Now admittedly, I did use another 3 gallons of distilled, flushing out the old blue stuff on the initial switch over. There was still old blue coolant stuck in the heater core and my OCD couldn't overcome the fact, but now, it feels good to be set free. 🤠
No ball and chain.
 
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But, But Dr Bob, I've been running Prestone Multi-Vehicle Concentrate mixed with grocery store distilled water for a very long time now, logging thousands of miles, and even throwing a water pump out on display to prove there is no whammies using this coolant in a Honda vehicle. Now admittedly, I did use another 3 gallons of distilled, flushing out the old blue stuff on the initial switch over. There was still old blue coolant stuck in the heater core and my OCD couldn't overcome the fact, but now, it feels good to be set free. 🤠
No ball and chain.
Using a gallon or two of Honda blue coolant once every 7-years/105K-miles constitutes a "ball and chain"?

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Was gonna change coolant today but then I saw this and am gonna wait. Ordered it from home depot for $25. It seems like sorcery but I'm gonna try it.
There a bunch of youtube videos on it.
 

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Be sure to check coolant level (motor COLD) after several heat/cool cycles/several days, by removing the radiator cap. Coolant level (motor COLD) should be up in the neck of the radiator.
 

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I don't worry about burping the system. I just fill radiator, squeezing the top hose to push any air out there (very gently, can push coolant out if not careful). Then fill the radiator bottle to max. After a hot and cold cycle, the air escapes, the radiator pulls in the coolant from the bottle. May add a few more ounces to max line, on the bottle when it's cool.
¯\(ツ)
 
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Only if you have a rad cap functioning at 100%. Best way to tell is to look under the rad cap, motor COLD of course.
 
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Be sure to check coolant level (motor COLD) after several heat/cool cycles/several days, by removing the radiator cap. Coolant level (motor COLD) should be up in the neck of the radiator.
In other words, properly burped.
 

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More like how to tell if the system has properly/completely burped. It never hurts from time to time to check coolant level in the radiator (motor COLD). The recovery bottle should be observed each time the hood is raised. Raise those hoods at least once a week and have a look.
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The system will burp itself -if- the heater is running and coolant is circulating through the heater cores. The risky beast is the rear heater core, a high spot where air will gather given a chance. Set the temps to full-hot and A/C off during coolant refill, rev the engine a little while the radiator cap is still off but after the engine is warm (telltale: cooling fans run), and any air bubbles should work their way to to the top of the radiator and out.

The recovery bottle should eventually receive any remaining air from the system after a few full-temp run cycles. Air would be at the top of the radiator and get pushed out to the bottle on hot shutdown. Then as the engine cools and the coolant cools with it, liquid from the bottle is drawn back in to make up the space. In my experience though, it's still best to do as much "burping" as you can before you put the radiator cap back on following initial coolant fill and engine warm-up.

I have enough pieces to make one of those vacuum-fill gizmos, but haven't yet seen the need on the Honda. Just performed its second cooling system drain-rinse-fill, and so far no evidence that there are any bubbles left. The telltale for air in the rear is low heat back there, and some possible mild rumbling noises from the back of that console section. None of those symptoms so far.

With two full gallons of coolant, the cold liquid level in the reservoir is about 3/4" above the max line. I figure the reservoir is the safest place to store the few ounces of coolant that the 1.9-something gallon rated system capacity won't swallow.
 

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I thought engine coolant flowed to/thru the heater core(s) the moment the engine is started, regardless of HVAC setting, no?
 
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