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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am about to install the VCM Tuner II on a 2011 Pilot EX as an upgrade from one of the
generic resistor disablers that I had installed in 2017.

The downside of the VCM Tuner II is the parasitic drain when the car is off.
The tuner manual claims the drain to be 20 mA initially, and 8.5-9.5 mA in the sleep mode.
I realize that it’s not that much, but I would still prefer to get rid off that if possible.

As far as I can tell, this has not been covered searching the Piloteers, OdyClub or Ridgeline forums.
But I may be wrong. Most threads I’ve found deal with tapping into the inside fuse box
to wire a dash cam or a radar detector. I haven’t found anything about tapping into
the smaller of the two fuse boxes under the hood.

Instead of connecting directly to the battery, I would like to tap into a fuse that is on only when the engine is running.
The closest to the tuner location is the “secondary” fuse box adjacent to the passenger side of the battery. In the first picture you can see the red plastic cover of the positive pole of the battery right next to the fuse box.

From looking at the images, tapping into which (if any) fuse would make the most sense in your opinion?

Thanks for any ideas.

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I am about to install the VCM Tuner II on a 2011 Pilot EX as an upgrade from one of the
generic resistor disablers that I had installed in 2017.

The downside of the VCM Tuner II is the parasitic drain when the car is off.
The tuner manual claims the drain to be 20 mA initially, and 8.5-9.5 mA in the sleep mode.
I realize that it’s not that much, but I would still prefer to get rid off that if possible.

As far as I can tell, this has not been covered searching the Piloteers, OdyClub or Ridgeline forums.
But I may be wrong. Most threads I’ve found deal with tapping into the inside fuse box
to wire a dash cam or a radar detector. I haven’t found anything about tapping into
the smaller of the two fuse boxes under the hood.

Instead of connecting directly to the battery, I would like to tap into a fuse that is on only when the engine is running.
The closest to the tuner location is the “secondary” fuse box adjacent to the passenger side of the battery. In the first picture you can see the red plastic cover of the positive pole of the battery right next to the fuse box.

From looking at the images, tapping into which (if any) fuse would make the most sense in your opinion?

Thanks for any ideas.

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I just found your post and realize my response is 3 months after you made it, but may I ask what you ended up doing? I am debating the very same approach for my '16 Pilot with a VCMTuner 2. I was considering the rear ACC fuse (probably your #18) in the engine box as I never use that 12V socket outlet anyway, assuming of course that it is switched off once the engine was shut off. My concern with this approach is routing the fuse tap wire out of the fuse box which is essentially designed to be sealed from the elements (water, dirt, etc) inside the engine bay. I used a fuse tap for the dash camera inside the passenger compartment fuse box, but for the life of me I see no easy way to get a wire thru the firewall for a VCMTuner. That's why I have an interest in doing the same thing you are.
 

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I used a fuse tap for the dash camera inside the passenger compartment fuse box, but for the life of me I see no easy way to get a wire thru the firewall for a VCMTuner
Are there no rubber grommets along the firewall?
 

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Are there no rubber grommets along the firewall?
None that I've been able to find. And I've looked and looked. I even pulled the glove box to see what was available on the passenger side, as Honda's parts diagram show a couple of grommets in that area, but they are awol on my car. I did go thru a floor grommet under the driver's floor mat for the illuminated running boards accessory wiring and might just put the Pilot back up on ramps to see how accessible that grommet is from the engine bay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
For now, I hooked up the VCMTuner 2 directly to the battery, and I've been monitoring the the state of charge. Doesn't seem to drain the battery much, certainly not overnight, and if I don't drive for more than 2 days, I tend to hook up the trickle charger. So that may be all I need to do.

Looking at the firewall I found a relatively large rubber plug with bunch of cables on the driver's side, tight and nicely sealed. It made me feel like I don't want to mess with that. Didn't see more than that, but not saying there is not a hidden passage or a grommet there somewhere.

Should I decide to pursue the original idea, one of the accessory sockets you mentioned, or even one of the empty slots may work. Will see. So far so good just running it off the battery.
 

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For now, I hooked up the VCMTuner 2 directly to the battery, and I've been monitoring the the state of charge. Doesn't seem to drain the battery much, certainly not overnight, and if I don't drive for more than 2 days, I tend to hook up the trickle charger. So that may be all I need to do.
Should I decide to pursue the original idea, one of the accessory sockets you mentioned, or even one of the empty slots may work. Will see. So far so good just running it off the battery.
Hey, thanks for letting me know.

I bought a VCMTuner 2 a few of weeks ago and my battery suddenly needed recharging whenever I put the tester on it. I ended up returning it cause I was afraid it was draining the battery too. In retrospect, I was wrong. With it uninstalled, my battery tester still said the battery needed recharging once again. It looks like it was a coincidence. I got an email back from the company I bought it from after they tested my returned unit, and they said it bench tested at 10mA in sleeping mode, which is per specs. So I pulled the neg. battery cable on my Pilot this week and did a DC current test to see what the basic current amp draw was to begin with, without any added electrical junk connected. My volt meter said it was only 10 mAs. That surprised me. Thats low. Adding another 10 mA's for the VCMTuner isn't going to overload a battery. I've come to the conclusion my battery's age (4 1/2 years) and Honda's infamous dual mode charging system is more responsible for my battery issues than any Tuner battery connection. I may reorder the VCMTuner 2. Still I'm dreaming of a way to power it without going to the battery directly so I don't have to even worry about it. A fuse tap is the best idea I have as it worked great for my dash cam. If I can only figure out how to do that for the Tuner now?? :unsure:
 

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Still I'm dreaming of a way to power it without going to the battery directly so I don't have to even worry about it. A fuse tap is the best idea I have as it worked great for my dash cam. If I can only figure out how to do that for the Tuner now?? :unsure:
Just got to get that one little red wire into the cabin to tap into some juicy switched 12V power source.
 

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Just got to get that one little red wire into the cabin to tap into some juicy switched 12V power source.
Finally figured it out. :)

Instead trying to go through the firewall I ended up poking a small hole thru a wire grommet above the hood latch cable (behind the parking brake) that goes into the driver's side wheel well. Pushed a wire thru the hole. Connected it to a fuse jumper that will go into an un used and switched power circuit (#12 on my car). Then put the rest of the wire inside some split loom and ran it along the hood release cable up to the engine. Hardest part was removing enough of the fender shield/liner for access to grommet behind the front wheel. Broke a few brittle, old fasteners on the fender liner removing it, but it worked out okay in the end. Checked the whole thing with my multi meter once finished. Got power when the engine is on, and most importantly ... no power when the engine is off. I'm a happy camper.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You’re right, that looks safer than drilling into the fuse box in the engine compartment. Thanks for figuring it out, and the photos!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ended up going 2hondas2's route - on Gen 2 fuse 34 is on only with ignition on, key in position-I and II.
I took the front wheel off, was able to remove the splash guard and reuse the clips, although one of them got a bit chewed up.
Greased the tip of the 18G wire, rounded the edges of insulation and fed it through the grommet from the wheel well into the interior.
Got through the grommet with the help of a hemostat to spread it apart a bit. Overall easier than I expected.
Thanks again for the suggestion 2h2!

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