[bugsy123]

All,

I decided to change my rear sway bar links today. What a PITA! By the grace of God, I successfully removed the driver side sway bar link. It was NOT an easy task but I did it.

The passenger side not so much. I used everything from a Sawzall to a cut off wheel. I couldn't get that sucker to budge. Now I'm stuck with flatten metal in the rear that constantly spins when I turn the bolt. I just can't figure it out.

What have you used to get past this nightmare. The nut and the stripped hex head is on the other side. I welcome any and all suggestions.

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[aggrex]

If the sawzall failed to cut the end link off the grinder would be my next choice but take care what you cut and the sparks. Dremel off the nut is a distant third because it’s slow and tedious.

 

[bugsy123]

If the sawzall failed to cut the end link off the grinder would be my next choice but take care what you cut and the sparks. Dremel off the nut is a distant third because it’s slow and tedious. View attachment 161745 View attachment 161746

Thank you for your response. And I have to say that I am jealous of your successful sway bar link removal. I wish mine turned out that way.

The rear passenger sway bar link is fitted somewhat snug. I angled the Sawzall enough to where I was able to cut up to the circles area in the rear portion of the sway bar link. That is the nubby that your seeing in the photo.

Your suggestion for the Dremel might be my only way out of this mess. Good call! But as you pointed out, its going to take me forever. Thanks again!

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[cintocrunch]

If it makes you feel any better, ANY time I mess with sway bar endlinks this is the end result.

 

[Nodacan]

When I replaced mine it ended up looking sort of like yours. I cut off the ball and ground the flange of the "bolt" as close to the sway bar as I could. Also did put that hole in it to start drilling it out, but ended up going with the angle grinder instead..

Eventually was able to use a punch and hammered it out in one piece, the remaining bits of the bolt flange were thin enough to collapse through the hole after a couple blows. Granted this was on the front sway bar of a first gen, but it was still one of the more frustrating things to deal with so the idea is the same.

 

[tinylo]

I can't make out what your problem is from the photo. I know the rear is more difficult because the nut is in a recessed location.

Do you have the nut to turn and you are left with the round stub on the other side (after busting off the link end)? If so, just clamp a vise grip on the stub and turn the nut off. It will be difficult but eventually it will come off. The vise grips will frequently pop off but eventually chew up the nub and grip it.

If you've stripped the nut then you're into a die grinder, drill or cutting torch. If you use a torch beware the axle boot is right there. Cover it with a wet towel.

Good luck

 

[jkkobie]

I actually did mine yesterday. I had to turn the wheel the whole way and use a sawzall with a new blade, then the flat spot thats left, i used a cutoff wheel to lightly grind donwn to the sway bar and then hit it with a punch...Then it came out
I did both this way . if its not cutting, get another blade!

 

[jkkobie]

Also check the online honda parts store for the parts...they were cheaper than napa and advanced auto in my area...I was surprised

 

[bugsy123]

When I replaced mine it ended up looking sort of like yours. I cut off the ball and ground the flange of the "bolt" as close to the sway bar as I could. Also did put that hole in it to start drilling it out, but ended up going with the angle grinder instead..
View attachment 161753

Eventually was able to use a punch and hammered it out in one piece, the remaining bits of the bolt flange were thin enough to collapse through the hole after a couple blows. Granted this was on the front sway bar of a first gen, but it was still one of the more frustrating things to deal with so the idea is the same.
View attachment 161760

Trust me, it looks 10 times as better as mine. I've resulted to a Harbor Freight dremel clone. I'm just going to have to grind until it gives.

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[bugsy123]

I can't make out what your problem is from the photo. I know the rear is more difficult because the nut is in a recessed location.

Do you have the nut to turn and you are left with the round stub on the other side (after busting off the link end)? If so, just clamp a vise grip on the stub and turn the nut off. It will be difficult but eventually it will come off. The vise grips will frequently pop off but eventually chew up the nub and grip it.

If you've stripped the nut then you're into a die grinder, drill or cutting torch. If you use a torch beware the axle boot is right there. Cover it with a wet towel.

Good luck

The nut is a goner. I went at it with a roto zip hoping to get down to the nut but its so recessed, I will not be able to get to it. I'm doing my best to try and grind the portion in the rear down in hopes that it pops out.

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[bugsy123]

I actually did mine yesterday. I had to turn the wheel the whole way and use a sawzall with a new blade, then the flat spot thats left, i used a cutoff wheel to lightly grind donwn to the sway bar and then hit it with a punch...Then it came out
I did both this way . if its not cutting, get another blade!

I will have to grind it down some more and then try your suggestion with the punch. Thank you!

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[bugsy123]

All thank you for all of the advice. I was finally able to remove it with a die grinder. I purchased a die grinder from Harbor Freight and purchased these little guys from Amazon. Took me about 10 mins or so and I was able to get the bolt and screw combination off. Thank God!

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