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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Passenger side front sway bar end link (I think that’s what they’re called) boot is completely torn and causing quite a bit of creaking.
Seem to be relatively easy to replace but I want to go ahead and replace the driver side as well. Any brand recommendations? I really prefer to avoid RockAuto just because I don’t want to pay shipping/wait. Has anyone used Napa or the other parts store brands?
Thanks!
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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But you'll miss out on your Piloteers 5% RA discount. 😟 🤪

I got Moogs there, but you should be able to find them elsewhere as well.

 

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Moog, Mevotech, Delphi. Napa isn't making theirs. Just putting their name on it. It's all imported. The heavier made the better.
 
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Both sides at once is the right call. I went OEM, and replaced all of the bolts involved with OEM at the same time.

This stuff is one place where Honda isn't stupidly expensive. They're more, but it winds up not being much more in absolute dollars.

I also found it difficult to determine which brands were really manufacturers, vs. generics with different logos. Faced with that uncertainty, I bought what I knew.

If you haven't already, you should probably re-do the sway bar bushings while you're in there. If the rubber in the links is gone, the bushings are likely to be, too. They're cheap.

Finally, this is one job where the "one week in advance with a lot of PB Blaster every other day" technique is definitely called for. If you don't have a Sawzall and just plan to cut the old links off, you'll be glad you prepped the bolts.
 

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I can vouch for the Honda OEM ... about $32 each with the nuts. Just replaced mine today. Wished I hit it with the PB Blaster earlier, but worked better with the sawzall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Both sides at once is the right call. I went OEM, and replaced all of the bolts involved with OEM at the same time.

This stuff is one place where Honda isn't stupidly expensive. They're more, but it winds up not being much more in absolute dollars.

I also found it difficult to determine which brands were really manufacturers, vs. generics with different logos. Faced with that uncertainty, I bought what I knew.

If you haven't already, you should probably re-do the sway bar bushings while you're in there. If the rubber in the links is gone, the bushings are likely to be, too. They're cheap.

Finally, this is one job where the "one week in advance with a lot of PB Blaster every other day" technique is definitely called for. If you don't have a Sawzall and just plan to cut the old links off, you'll be glad you prepped the bolts.
I wish my dealer was cheaper. Perhaps I'll see if they can price match Majestic Honda.

I will look into the bushings as well. Thanks!
 

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Both sides at once is the right call. I went OEM, and replaced all of the bolts involved with OEM at the same time.

This stuff is one place where Honda isn't stupidly expensive. They're more, but it winds up not being much more in absolute dollars.

I also found it difficult to determine which brands were really manufacturers, vs. generics with different logos. Faced with that uncertainty, I bought what I knew.

If you haven't already, you should probably re-do the sway bar bushings while you're in there. If the rubber in the links is gone, the bushings are likely to be, too. They're cheap.

Finally, this is one job where the "one week in advance with a lot of PB Blaster every other day" technique is definitely called for. If you don't have a Sawzall and just plan to cut the old links off, you'll be glad you prepped the bolts.
Btw what’s is difficulty rating (1-10) on replacing bushings?
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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If you haven't already, you should probably re-do the sway bar bushings while you're in there. If the rubber in the links is gone, the bushings are likely to be, too. They're cheap.
Yes, good call, specially that you can't really eyeball that they're out of round on the inside.

Tip: get a 14mm offset box wrench or a half moon wrench.

 

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Btw what’s is difficulty rating (1-10) on replacing bushings?
Conceptually, about 0.5

With the exception of one of the bolts, about 1.

That one bolt (driver's side rear, if I recall correctly) is a pain. As plplplpl notes, the right tool helps a lot.

Still, if you have stands and can get underneath the car safely to work, it's a great driveway DIY job.
 

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Conceptually, about 0.5

With the exception of one of the bolts, about 1.

That one bolt (driver's side rear, if I recall correctly) is a pain. As plplplpl notes, the right tool helps a lot.

Still, if you have stands and can get underneath the car safely to work, it's a great driveway DIY job.
My bolts were so rusted tight, I lowered the subframe to get better access with a socket an breaker bar. (I soaked with PB blaster for several days ahead of time).
148536
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hoping to talk the dealership down to matching Majestic, then if not I’ll try the Acura dealer across the street. My backup will be Napa. I’ll update once the new parts are on tomorrow.
 

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Conceptually, about 0.5

With the exception of one of the bolts, about 1.

That one bolt (driver's side rear, if I recall correctly) is a pain. As plplplpl notes, the right tool helps a lot.

Still, if you have stands and can get underneath the car safely to work, it's a great driveway DIY job.
I guess you mean the sway bar bushings? I did see a video on it and it doesn't look too bad. I guess I was meaning the difficulty of the control arm bushings. I saw the Eric the car Guy video on the Element and seemed to a little more than I want to bargain for, especially when I rely on the car as a daily. Is it better to buy the control arm as a whole, and/or not worry about it until is broken/loose?
 

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Hoping to talk the dealership down to matching Majestic, then if not I’ll try the Acura dealer across the street. My backup will be Napa. I’ll update once the new parts are on tomorrow.
Did you try the many online Honda stores? Seems to be way cheaper than the dealer. Some of them are ...(shhh...secret) dealers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Did you try the many online Honda stores? Seems to be way cheaper than the dealer. Some of them are ...(shhh...secret) dealers.
I need to replace the parts tomorrow and don’t want to wait for shipping. So I’m hoping my local dealer will consider price matching.
 

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I need to replace the parts tomorrow and don’t want to wait for shipping. So I’m hoping my local dealer will consider price matching.
If that plan doesn't pan out check out the MOOG problem solver end links as they have a fitting to add grease during routine inspections
 

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If that plan doesn't pan out check out the MOOG problem solver end links as they have a fitting to add grease during routine inspections
You mean real, honest-to-goodness zerks? Golly, I miss those.

Things is, if you've got 'em, then you have to use 'em. The adjustable rear upper control arms I got several years ago were zerk-neglected and then seized up, so I had to remove them and reinstall OEM-like nonadjustable ones. I recently eyeballed the negative camber on my rear wheels again and I didn't like what I saw, so I ordered another set of adjustable Moog ones from RA and will have a go at installing them yet again, and this time I'll try to be a good boy and keep them lubed up on a regular basis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You mean real, honest-to-goodness zerks? Golly, I miss those.

Things is, if you've got 'em, then you have to use 'em. The adjustable rear upper control arms I got several years ago were zerk-neglected and then seized up, so I had to remove them and reinstall OEM-like nonadjustable ones. I recently eyeballed the negative camber on my rear wheels again and I didn't like what I saw, so I ordered another set of adjustable Moog ones from RA and will have a go at installing them yet again, and this time I'll try to be a good boy and keep them lubed up on a regular basis.
Do I need to add grease to these? Never seen this before.


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148573
 
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