Subframe Mount Repair - Hole Location?

Thank you both for the info.

Has anyone done this without dropping the subframe like ETCG does?

I mocked up an @plplpl style bracket from thin steel and was able to get it in place without removing the subframe.

@plplpl With your repair do you think that the load is going through the legs of the bracket into the two flanges or mostly straight from the face to the unibody channel? Unless it is shimmed the load path is probably one or the other. Does that make sense?

Thanks again for your time.

plplplpl said:

I cannot rightfully take the credit for this fix. I was merely passing along information from one whose sandals the thongs of which I am not fit to tie.

Truly I tell you, I trust that he who comes after me will save you.

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Maybe so, but among those born of women no one has risen greater than you.

My brother helped me to fab my repair bracket today. Will take photos of the repair process in a few weeks when I do the install.

My bracket is 1/4'' steel which is what I had on hand. On mine, some of the vertical load will be carried by shear pins match drilled after installation, rather than the flanges in the drawing. Most of the vertical load will simply be carried by the bracket bottom plate in bending and transferred straight to the existing unibody channel.

Bought the hardware. Plan to machine the holes in my bracket this weekend and pull the 3rd row. I hear that getting those bolts (3rd row) out might be a problem on my rusty Pilot. Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks for all the help.

W

royalbiggster said:

Watch the video above. He had to use heat from above to get it out.

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Thanks, I'm actually referring to the bolts that attach the 3rd row seats to the floor.
The subframe bolt was a complete mess. The nut that is inside the unibody channel was completely separated from the unibody and seized to the bolt so that was as simple as sawing the bolt off right above the subframe bushing and pulling that half out the out the top subframe and the headed side of the bolt from the bottom.

Everything went fairly well.

Getting the 3rd row out was easy with impact driver.

I didn't drill the 3 fore/aft holes in the car yet, not sure if I will. It is mostly a redundant load path.

Reach out if you have questions or complaints.

Thanks for the help!

Thanks. I probably will add the other bolts soon.

1/2 in thickness added. I would balance it out on the other side but you know that'd turn into doing another top bearing plate when that bolt broke. It's okay for her to have one slightly longer leg at the old age of 325k, right?

Tips for others:

-Do test fit with thin sheet metal to get size correct and make sure you can install it. 4 in inner width is correct.

-Be careful of rear diff and wheel speed sensor wiring behind unibody channel. Get it out of the way before starting and be mindful when hitting bracket on.

-I installed bracket once to mark clearance hole locations and drilled holes off the car to avoid drilling thick steel by hand.

- The center of the three holes on my bracket is indeed useless. Just wasn't thinking.

z3pilot99_2339 said:

Any of you seen this? https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2022/MC-10209071-0001.pdf
Honda makes a fix. No welding required(that I can tell).

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Cool! Has anyone gotten it done? How much are they charging?

On another note, I am considering sticking 1/2'' of shim on the other side before replacing tires. We'll see about that.