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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All, I did a little bit of searching but didn't find exactly what I was looking for.

I just got around to changing the oil on my Pilot for the first time since Ownership. To my surprise, I found that the previous owner seemed to have stripped the oil pan as I noticed a funky looking (+ wrong size) washer attached to the drain bolt. After wrapping up the oil change, I wanted to try my luck with the same bolt, but without over tightening to make things worse. Lo and behold, small and slow drops were forming at the drain bolt. I went down there and tried slowly tightening more, but it just kept spinning. There was no hope, the pan was stripped bad.

Looked online to find that it is a very common issue with [especially Honda] aluminum oil pans. I tried the suggested Oversize 14x1.5 bolt, and after bolting that down, I also noticed drops starting to form.

Then I decided to bite the bullet and tap a new bigger thread. I bought this guy https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V0R7LVI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tapped new threads, drained about 4 qts of good oil just to drain out any metal shavings, installed new drain bolt that was included and guess what? Still leaking oil from the bolt. WTF?!

The only thing I can think of is that I didn't tighten the bolt down tight enough, but obviously I don't want to RE-strip the pan again. But at the same time, I feel like it's plenty tight. How is oil finding it's way out?

My thoughts are to put teflon tape on the bolt, as well as a rubber washer instead of the copper washer included to make a better seal. Also thinking about a silicone sealer at the bolt head, but I feel like that's a little overboard. Do those sound reasonable?

What sucks is this is already the second round of perfectly good oil I poured in the engine (I didn't want to reuse the first round because of left behind metal shavings), and I don't have the luxury of constantly buying new oil till the stupid bolt stops leaking.

Sorry for the long post, but I figure someone on here has to have been through what I'm going through.
 

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Have you tried torquing it to the right specs ? I believe it’s 40 N-m or 30 lbs-ft.


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Have you tried torquing it to the right specs ? I believe it’s 40 N-m or 30 lbs-ft.


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I haven't torqued it down, but I hand tightened it pretty snug. I do need to torque it down and hopefully that does it.

I just read some other reviews from the tap kit on amazon, and it looks like a couple reviews mentioned that it also leaked. One person used teflon tape and it fixed the problem. I think I'd go that route first as it looks the easiest, before I start looking at other cert kits, oil pans, or drain valves although they are all good options!

I'm so done with this.. Who woulda though a simple oil change can be such a nightmare!
 

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One person used teflon tape and it fixed the problem. I think I'd go that route first as it looks the easiest, before I start looking at other cert kits, oil pans, or drain valves although they are all good options!

I'm so done with this..
Teflon tape has always been a part of my successful plumbing work. Who knows, it might work in your case if you're just looking to be done with it pronto. Just be careful none goes up and gets loose in the oil pan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Teflon tape has always been a part of my successful plumbing work. Who knows, it might work in your case if you're just looking to be done with it pronto. Just be careful none goes up and gets loose in the oil pan.
Yeah definitely, I plan on taping maybe 4-5 threads on the head side of the bolt, I don't want to risk any getting into the oil.
 

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On these drain plugs they are meant to seal between the head of the plug and the pan. Where the gasket is. It is leaking either because the pan itself is cracked or the hole is not perpendicular to the sealing surface (the flat area where the washer goes). The teflon tape will probably work if it is not to big of a leak but that will be a pain to mess with every time you do an oil change.

Assuming you don't want to replace the pan and it is not leaking too bad you could try:
Use some type of washer that will compress rather than a solid metal one on the drain plug. A solid metal washer will not conform to the irregularity if the hole is not perpendicular. I have had good luck with this method if it is a small leak.
You could spot face the surface that the sealing surface on the pan (this assumes you have the stuff to do that).
If the teflon tape works, I would buy a Fumoto valve and install it, after cleaning the drain hole really well, with some kind of sealant (I guess teflon tape would work). That way all you have to do it open the valve to change the oil and not take out the plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
On these drain plugs they are meant to seal between the head of the plug and the pan. Where the gasket is. It is leaking either because the pan itself is cracked or the hole is not perpendicular to the sealing surface (the flat area where the washer goes). The teflon tape will probably work if it is not to big of a leak but that will be a pain to mess with every time you do an oil change.

Assuming you don't want to replace the pan and it is not leaking too bad you could try:
Use some type of washer that will compress rather than a solid metal one on the drain plug. A solid metal washer will not conform to the irregularity if the hole is not perpendicular. I have had good luck with this method if it is a small leak.
You could spot face the surface that the sealing surface on the pan (this assumes you have the stuff to do that).
If the teflon tape works, I would buy a Fumoto valve and install it, after cleaning the drain hole really well, with some kind of sealant (I guess teflon tape would work). That way all you have to do it open the valve to change the oil and not take out the plug.
Thanks for that! I was also concerned that my oil pan is cracked somehow, but i'm hoping that the aluminum would have stripped before having cracked.

After looking at the Fumoto valve site, I couldn't find anything with a 15mmx1.5 thread pattern, since I now upsized from 14x1.5 to 15x1.5. Unless it is advertised as a different unit of size that I don't understand?
 

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Thanks for that! I was also concerned that my oil pan is cracked somehow, but i'm hoping that the aluminum would have stripped before having cracked.

After looking at the Fumoto valve site, I couldn't find anything with a 15mmx1.5 thread pattern, since I now upsized from 14x1.5 to 15x1.5. Unless it is advertised as a different unit of size that I don't understand?
Not sure that 15mmX1.5 is a standard used size. They do have a 16mmX1.5 valve. That would mean taping up to 16mm's. That's why I suggested the new pan and the valve. A combination that is known to work. Hope you get this problem resolved. It's frustrating I know.
 

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Your local auto parts store probably has a case with oil plug sealing washers for everything ever made.

A 2.2L Chrysler I once had, had a similar seepage problem.The original washer was a thick nylon washer, an aluminum and rubber washer for a GM car solved the problem.
 

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I've used a rubber expansion oil plug in the past. As you tighten the bolt, the rubber expands sealing the hole. A quick search showed napa has them. That should buy you time to get a used pan and relocate a bung for a fumoto.
 

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Well you could replace the oil pan and install one of these before you do.
I ended up buying and using one of these set to 30 ft-lbs. I got it for other reasons, but it seems to work ok, and fit into the area ok, with a 3/8 drive on the oil bolt of my Honda's. So far haven't had any go backs on drips. Normally, i just torque it snug but since I had this....But that valve looks pretty neat. Haven't seen that before.
 

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I concur with others that you should use a Fumoto or something that allows you to not remove the drain plug anymore.

One thing to consider is a helicoil. Used this on my sister's Civic AT drain plug that stripped and it worked fine. I've also used the rubber expanding plugs with luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I ended up using the teflon tape and a rubber/metal washer and it did the trick! I may consider keeping it in there and using a vacuum/pump like others have mentioned.

The bolt ended up looking like this before throwing it back on. (I didn't use the permatex though)

137391


137392
 

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Hate to be a party pooper, but you didn't fix the problem. You just shoved it down the road a few days or weeks. Petroleum products will destroy that white plumbers tape you put on there and the leak will be back. You have to buy the expensive stuff, ie: the Yellow plumbers tape. It is for working with gas substances and oil substances. .
137403


There is also a pink that is nothing more than a thicker version of the white for larger pipes and green, specifically for using with oxygen.
 

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Yellow plumbers tape. It is for working with gas substances and oil substances.
Hot dang, ya learn sumpin' new every day. ¡Gracias, my neighbor to the south! Last month is was air fryers. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hate to be a party pooper, but you didn't fix the problem. You just shoved it down the road a few days or weeks. Petroleum products will destroy that white plumbers tape you put on there and the leak will be back. You have to buy the expensive stuff, ie: the Yellow plumbers tape. It is for working with gas substances and oil substances. . View attachment 137403

There is also a pink that is nothing more than a thicker version of the white for larger pipes and green, specifically for using with oxygen.
Thanks for that! I think currently it was a combination of the plumbers tape, and the rubber/metal washer that helped stop the leak. I've been keeping an eye for any dripping oil and so far so good. But if I have to go the same route, I'll be sure to pick up the yellow tape. Thanks!
 
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