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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I have a 2011 pilot with ~93K on the clock, but this problem has been going on for a couple years. Basically, there is a significant steering wheel shake when:
a) accelerating past ~50 mph but NOT when coasting and
b) when braking.

New tires and a tire rotation have not resolved the issue. I also replaced the front brake rotors thinking they may be warped, but issue persists. I've read it may be a CV joint or CV axle issue?
I also came across this post regarding a warranty extension due to a faulty lower arm bushing, but I have never noticed leaking oil or residue (granted I bought the car at 66K miles in mid-2016).

Any insights would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I would really lean towards the compliance bushings needing to be replaced.

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There's 2 bushings but the compliance bushing is the big one that goes bad on these.

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Sounds like this is the same bushing that is indicated in the link I included in the original post.
Yes it is. Have you taken a good look at them? Look for cracks in them.

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Hello all,

I have a 2011 pilot with ~93K on the clock, but this problem has been going on for a couple years. Basically, there is a significant steering wheel shake when:
a) accelerating past ~50 mph but NOT when coasting and
b) when braking.

New tires and a tire rotation have not resolved the issue. I also replaced the front brake rotors thinking they may be warped, but issue persists. I've read it may be a CV joint or CV axle issue?
I also came across this post regarding a warranty extension due to a faulty lower arm bushing, but I have never noticed leaking oil or residue (granted I bought the car at 66K miles in mid-2016).

Any insights would be greatly appreciated.



Non Honda OEM axles will also cause vibrations. I would use OEM axles AND OEM rotors.



Usually vibration when braking is caused by warped rotors or bad axles
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Took the warranty info to the local Honda dealer with me today. They took a look and confirmed that both compliance bushings have tears. The car has 93K on it and purchase date was sometime in 2010, except the warranty only covers up to 7 yrs or 100K, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST. The dealer is now in talks with Honda for a goodwill repair.

As a 2nd owner, I received the car with 66K in mid-2016 (I'm sure the fluids had already leaked out of the bushing by then) and took some time to address the most probable causes of steering shake including brand new tires and replaced front rotors and pads. I feel like I've done my due diligence as a customer (didn't just sit on the problem) and coupled with the fact that Honda obviously recognizes that the original bushings are faulty, I would hope there's a case here for goodwill coverage...
 

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Took the warranty info to the local Honda dealer with me today. They took a look and confirmed that both compliance bushings have tears. The car has 93K on it and purchase date was sometime in 2010, except the warranty only covers up to 7 yrs or 100K, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST. The dealer is now in talks with Honda for a goodwill repair.

As a 2nd owner, I received the car with 66K in mid-2016 (I'm sure the fluids had already leaked out of the bushing by then) and took some time to address the most probable causes of steering shake including brand new tires and replaced front rotors and pads. I feel like I've done my due diligence as a customer (didn't just sit on the problem) and coupled with the fact that Honda obviously recognizes that the original bushings are faulty, I would hope there's a case here for goodwill coverage...
I have 95k on my pilot and am on my 3rd set of bushings. I replaced the last ones myself and it was a pretty simple job. I got them from rockauto with a lifetime warranty for just over $100.

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Discussion Starter #10
Honda got back to me, and they're asking for ~$200 to replace the control arms on both sides and do an alignment. The argument they're making, though, is that the bushings alone are not meant to be replaced - so they're replacing the entire control arms. Yet, Honda themselves sell just the compliance brackets.

$200 isn't crazy for the price of the job they want to do, but it's not the job they have to do.
 

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I think that you should take the deal. 2 new OEM control arms and an alignment? Plus dealer labor? For $200? Take it!
 

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I think the dealer is being more than fair with that price. I would have them do it.

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I have 95k on my pilot and am on my 3rd set of bushings. I replaced the last ones myself and it was a pretty simple job. I got them from rockauto with a lifetime warranty for just over $100.

I had my bushings first replaced around 37K miles, and if I remember correctly I had to pay around $150 total. It wasn't the full price but the dealer offered some 'goodwill' :rolleyes: deal because I was just barely outside the warranty. Not long after that I got a letter from Honda about the issue along with a form to submit for reimbursement which I completed and had ready to mail but forgot about. Fast forward a few years later I got a letter about the seat belt and airbag recalls, and when I picked my car up the service record indicated they also replaced the compliance bushings because they were leaking. This means I'm on my third set of them, and now with just around 95K miles they're leaking again, AND I get the vibrations when braking or accelerating.


Are there any known solutions? I never owned a Honda van or SUV before, however all my Honda cars had the original suspension components last well over 100K miles. If I replace these bushings with OEM Honda parts, are they going to fail again in another 30K miles?
 

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The ones I ordered from RockAuto have so far been fine but I don't have a ton of miles on them. They seemed to be a little more heavy duty than the honda OEM. Here's a pic comparing the two.


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The ones I ordered from RockAuto have so far been fine but I don't have a ton of miles on them. They seemed to be a little more heavy duty than the honda OEM. Here's a pic comparing the two.

Can these be replaced without removing either end of the axles? It looks that way, but all the procedures I'm reading indicate that the inner end of the axle needs to be pulled out of the transmission or the outer end needs to be pulled out of the hub to get enough movement in the control arm to remove the bushing.
 

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Can these be replaced without removing either end of the axles? It looks that way, but all the procedures I'm reading indicate that the inner end of the axle needs to be pulled out of the transmission or the outer end needs to be pulled out of the hub to get enough movement in the control arm to remove the bushing.
Yes you don't need to completely remove the axle. You are able to get enough room by slightly pulling on the axle out of the transmission. Just don't pull it all the way off. Not too hard of a job. Good luck!

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