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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2013 EX-L FWD w/ 136k miles. I just got home yesterday from a day trip, and I noticed that the steering wheel had vibration at 70+ MPH. I just recently did brakes (pads & new rotors), 2 new tires (fronts were shot but rears were good - discount tire put the new ones in the rear), and I did a 4 wheel alignment.. Any guidance here would be appreciated. Thx!
 

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2013 EX-L FWD w/ 136k miles. I just got home yesterday from a day trip, and I noticed that the steering wheel had vibration at 70+ MPH. I just recently did brakes (pads & new rotors), 2 new tires (fronts were shot but rears were good - discount tire put the new ones in the rear), and I did a 4 wheel alignment.. Any guidance here would be appreciated. Thx!
Check your bushings on the lower control arm. Look at some youtube videos on how to tell if the lower control arm bushings are bad. Good Luck
 

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Double-check the balance on the front wheels/tires. Consider rotating the new tires to the front to see if the vibration moves to the rear.

It's not clear from your post whether you did brakes and rotors before or after the new tires were installed, or where the alignment fits e sequence. It's --possible-- to get wheel nuts torque so uneven that there's enough distortion to cause vibrations you describe. It's relatively painless to verify that the lug nuts are torqued evenly correctly, assuming you have a torque wrench handy. Since you did several things at once or at least close together, you get to walk back through your sequence of work to find what you did that was fine before but has vibration after the work done.


FWIW, front steering causes start at out-of-balance and/or out of true tires and wheels. With the front of the car raised, look carefully at the tire tread as you spin the font wheels to make sure the tire is actually round. Look for odd wear patterns too.

Road force balancing may help you identify a damaged or out of round tire if you can;'t see it with the naked eye.

The list continues with CV joint or driveshaft damage that allows a front driveshaft to or CV joint to vibrate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Double-check the balance on the front wheels/tires. Consider rotating the new tires to the front to see if the vibration moves to the rear.

It's not clear from your post whether you did brakes and rotors before or after the new tires were installed, or where the alignment fits e sequence. It's --possible-- to get wheel nuts torque so uneven that there's enough distortion to cause vibrations you describe. It's relatively painless to verify that the lug nuts are torqued evenly correctly, assuming you have a torque wrench handy. Since you did several things at once or at least close together, you get to walk back through your sequence of work to find what you did that was fine before but has vibration after the work done.


FWIW, front steering causes start at out-of-balance and/or out of true tires and wheels. With the front of the car raised, look carefully at the tire tread as you spin the font wheels to make sure the tire is actually round. Look for odd wear patterns too.

Road force balancing may help you identify a damaged or out of round tire if you can;'t see it with the naked eye.

The list continues with CV joint or driveshaft damage that allows a front driveshaft to or CV joint to vibrate.
Thank you. the sequence was brakes, then tires, then alignment...
 

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FYI, my 2012 EX-L with 90k miles has a strong vibration in the steering wheel over 70 mph that no one can figure out. I've had the tires balanced and re-balanced, and road force balanced, and replaced with new ones by discount tire to get the road force balancing down to under 10. I've had front axles replaced and looked at and still no solution. Compliance bushings look ok and were replaced back at 36k under warranty because they were leaking.

I'd be interested to see if you find a solution to your problem, because it's driving me crazy. I'm wondering if I have an out of round wheel that balances ok but causes issues at higher speeds. Or my new axles are just slightly out of balance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
FYI, my 2012 EX-L with 90k miles has a strong vibration in the steering wheel over 70 mph that no one can figure out. I've had the tires balanced and re-balanced, and road force balanced, and replaced with new ones by discount tire to get the road force balancing down to under 10. I've had front axles replaced and looked at and still no solution. Compliance bushings look ok and were replaced back at 36k under warranty because they were leaking.

I'd be interested to see if you find a solution to your problem, because it's driving me crazy. I'm wondering if I have an out of round wheel that balances ok but causes issues at higher speeds. Or my new axles are just slightly out of balance.
I had my compliance bushings done at 60k...possible could need replacement again?
I'm going to start w/ discount tire - have them look at the balancing again. Then see where I'm at.

Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
FYI, my 2012 EX-L with 90k miles has a strong vibration in the steering wheel over 70 mph that no one can figure out. I've had the tires balanced and re-balanced, and road force balanced, and replaced with new ones by discount tire to get the road force balancing down to under 10. I've had front axles replaced and looked at and still no solution. Compliance bushings look ok and were replaced back at 36k under warranty because they were leaking.

I'd be interested to see if you find a solution to your problem, because it's driving me crazy. I'm wondering if I have an out of round wheel that balances ok but causes issues at higher speeds. Or my new axles are just slightly out of balance.
Hello, I wanted to you know I had Discount Tire rebalance all 4 tires over the weekend. They said the tires were in balance, but re-balanced anyway. The tech suggested checking out the suspension - which would be my next step. I will say though that when I drive on the highway the vibration was essentially gone. I'll continue to monitor, but I'm guessing I'll need to do shocks & struts at some point..
 

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2013 EX-L FWD w/ 136k miles. I just got home yesterday from a day trip, and I noticed that the steering wheel had vibration at 70+ MPH. I just recently did brakes (pads & new rotors), 2 new tires (fronts were shot but rears were good - discount tire put the new ones in the rear), and I did a 4 wheel alignment.. Any guidance here would be appreciated. Thx!
There is a TSB on the propeller shaft (aka driveshaft), I had a problem at highway speeds with vibration that could be felt though out the vehicle. Shaft was out of balance and the carrier bearing was shot.
 

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AZScott - Did you ever get this figured out? We have the same thing on our 2013 Touring (2wd) and have had it for a while - it vibrates in the steering wheel between 70 - 80mph. Otherwise it's smooth, though I've lately noticed a "click" feel (no sound) at low speeds while turning in parking lots... CV boots LOOK ok, but I wonder if one is bad anyway.

Things we've already done that have not changed the issue:

1) Replaced the front brake pads and rotors (got rid of brake vibrations, but did nothing for 70 - 80mph range)

2) Replaced all 4 tires with new Michelins - no change

3) Replaced the leaking compliance bushings with alignment - no change

4) Disabled VCM using the S-VCM module - works great for annoying VCM vibrations... but no change in 70-80mph

Frankly - I hate driving this car mostly because of this issue. It's my wife's car and it causes strife as I always want us to take my old BMW instead... which she isn't interested in. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Brian,
I ended up taking the car back to discount tire & had them re-balance. It seems to have mostly solved the issue for us. Honda recommended we do shocks & struts a while back, but we haven't as another mechanic that I trust more said they were fine...sorry i couldn't be more helpful.
 

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Thanks so much for the response. Really appreciate it and glad you got it solved for you.
 

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Probably will be temporary, pretty sure the cv joint is worn, I had to replace the driver's side. Also check the bushings! Replace as needed. Last unlock the steering column and pull steering wheel in out a d up down a few times to relube the joints. Hope this helps, did for me.
 

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Thanks - I wish there was and easier way to examine the CV's without having to pop them out or guess and replace them. This thing started vibrating in the 30-35k mile range and only has 60k miles on it. Seems really early for CV failure but then again it's had the horrors of VCM being enabled for almost all of those miles. Compliance bushings were replaced about 6-9 months ago by Honda or were there other bushings you're thinking of?

Thanks!
 

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Thanks - I wish there was and easier way to examine the CV's without having to pop them out or guess and replace them. This thing started vibrating in the 30-35k mile range and only has 60k miles on it. Seems really early for CV failure but then again it's had the horrors of VCM being enabled for almost all of those miles. Compliance bushings were replaced about 6-9 months ago by Honda or were there other bushings you're thinking of?

Thanks!
I replaced both lower control arms with compliance bushings, sway bar bushings and those sway bar linkages. As I was putting the driver's side lower control arm on the cv joint popped and everything fell out, so I replaced it. It feels much stronger on acceleration. But if I turn left and accelerate I feel a vibration, probably the passenger side cv is worn too, I bought this used with 60k and currently have 78k.
 

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In a previous non-Honda car with a somewhat similar front axle setup, the inner drive joints liked to wear and cause the vibration that some are describing here. In inners are NOT CV joints in the typical sense. The joint consists of a three-legged spider with radiused rollers in the spider legs. The rollers engage in grooves in the inner drive hub, so that the spider moves as needed in the drive hub as the suspension moves and the driveshaft needs to be shorter or longer. The rollers eventually wear little depressions in the drive hub, allowing the axle to move radially in the hub. So there's vibration. My previous non-Honda example was running about 2.5x the original engine torque, so the inner joints needed replacement every 40k or so. Meanwhile, the diagnosis for the inner joint movement is pretty simple. With the car at normal height (NOT raised on jacks or stands, blocks or ramps OK), grab the inner end of the driveshaft and test for radial play. If there's any movement at all that you can feel, replacement is in the cards for you. The left (driver's side on US cars...) inner drive joint can be replaced as a separate part. The right side piece, unfortunately, is only available as part of a replacement axle assembly. The assemblies are less than $500/pr with a little shopping from Honda as I look today, not outrageous but big enough to dent my toy and fine wine budget a bit. I'm not sure I'd want to go the aftermarket route on these without a lot of research.
 

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Thank you both! I’ll try to get under there and wiggle it this weekend! Wear on the splines makes sense and with VCM it may lead to more wear there too.
 
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I 2nd Bob's observations that Honda's seem prone to inner CV joint wear, leading to vibration. In my experience, the vibration is much less or dissapears when coasting and worse under steady cruising, acceleration or heavier loads like hills.
 

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Also, I had vibrations on my 2003 pilot, couldn’t figure it out had my local garage look at the balance. He asked do you live on a dirt road? Why yes I do! He cleaned a huge chunk of dried mud out put both cleaned tires back on and voila, vibrations gone. If you have rain or hit puddles every so often remember mud could create the vibrations. Look for the easiest issue first then go to garage.
 

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I 2nd Bob's observations that Honda's seem prone to inner CV joint wear, leading to vibration.
I had a mechanic mention this as a possible issue as well, talking about splines, etc. The problem is I've had the axles replaced, driver's was aftermarket and passenger was mine rebuilt. Are the CV joints a separate part, or is it possible my passenger side rebuild still had the same issue?
In my experience, the vibration is much less or dissapears when coasting and worse under steady cruising, acceleration or heavier loads like hills.
This is exactly my experience as well. Coasting down hill is very smooth, even at 75mph+.
 
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