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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m a new Pilot owner but an experienced Honda owner. Just bought a 2008 EX with 145k miles. Needs a little suspension work and a few odds and ends like dash bulbs and rear blower transistor. There is one issue I’ve yet to work out. Steering to the left is harder then steering to the right. I’m familiar with the order of the process on elimination to isolate issues and I’ll be lifting the front end and turning the wheel to see if it’s in the power steering rack or if it’s mechanical. My question is about control arms. The compliance bushings on both control arms are split and need to be replaced. The right side more then the left. If my steering problem isn’t in the steering rack, is it likely that the control arms are causing the steering to be harder to the left? Could it also be a combo of shot compliance bushings and wheels out of alignment? It does pull to the left when hands are off the wheel however, 15% of the time it’ll roll straight with hands off the wheel.
Thanks for any input!
 

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Test the steering rack as planned. Post a pic of the split compliance bushing. With the age and mileage the front suspension may also need struts, SB endlinks & bushings and etc. most of this is routine maintenance for any older high mileage vehicle. Just a side note: make sure the timing belt service has been done.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Could it also be a combo of shot compliance bushings and wheels out of alignment?
Doesn't hurt to check alignment, too, Are you planning on changing out both LCAs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Most other suspension components are in (at least) working order. New-ish sway bar links, struts not bouncy, tie rod ends seem good. Sway bay bushings are a bit dry.

Yes. Planning on replacing LCAs soon, regardless.
 

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Most other suspension components are in (at least) working order. New-ish sway bar links, struts not bouncy, tie rod ends seem good. Sway bay bushings are a bit dry.

Yes. Planning on replacing LCAs soon, regardless.
Check RockAuto for the LCAs. They got the selection, prices and forum discount to save a few bucks off shipping
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Already ordered a set of Moog LCAs from Amazon.
Link?

If sway bar bushings look kind of dry, it's what you can't easily see that is usually the problem: they get out of round on the inside, typically resulting in a clunk mostly heard at low speeds over sidewalk entrance curbs, potholes, speed bumps, etc. Pro tip: get a 14mm offset box wrench or a half moon wrench for that one bolt on the driver's side. You'll thank me.

You mean besides Walmart, Home Depot, Lowe's and Amazon? :p


https://www.walmart.com/c/kp/half-moon-wrenches

Sunex SAE Half Moon Wrench Set (5-Piece)-9935 - The Home Depot

https://www.lowes.com/pd/KD-Tools-Gearwrench-5-Piece-12-Point-Metric-Ratchet-Wrench-Set/1000973056

GEARWRENCH 14mm x 16mm 12 Point Half-Moon Reversible Double Box Ratcheting Wrench - 9853 - Combination Wrenches - Amazon.com


This is what happens when you let your imagination come up with fanciful names for things. Poetic, perhaps, but a search for a "horse shoe wrench" won't be too fruitful. A search for what is called a "half moon wrench" will yield much more productive results. :)
If you're DIYing it, the cost for the parts is negligible. Click on the link I put in post #4 above.


As for the job itself, the 2 passenger side bolts (14mm) come off pretty easily, especially if you've let them all soak in a good spray of penetrating oil since the night before.

The tricky part is one of the two 14mm bolts holding the passenger side bushing is really hard to access because A/C lines are in the way and you want to be careful around those. Some folks lower the subframe (about an inch should do), but you can avoid that hassle with a 12-point deep offset 14mm box wrench or a 12-point half moon (aka horseshoe) 14mm box wrench. Why a box wrench? Because due to space constraints you only get a small turn at a time. But with a little patience, you can make short work of it and for little cost.








GEARWRENCH 14mm x 16mm 12 Point Half-Moon Reversible Double Box Ratcheting Wrench - 9853 - Combination Wrenches - Amazon.com




With all this on-point advice, how can you not do this job now? Either that or you will continue to be haunted by clunking sounds. 👻
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just finished up the diagnosis. Lifted the front end and while turning the wheels lock to lock, back and forth, it feels amazing. It’s definitely not an issue with the steering system. My LCAs will be here in a few days. I’ll install (maybe replace tie rod ends?) and then get an alignment.
At the moment, I’m thrilled this is not a power steering issue!

I also took advantage of shop time and changed the oil and trans fluid 😁

Here are photos of my current compliance bushings. Status: Roasted!
143582
143583
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Glad for the relatively good news. Post a play by play with pics when you swap them out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just swapped in the new control arms. It was really straight forward. Watched two YouTube videos and knocked it out pretty easily. It took just over an hour to do both sides. Renting a ball joint separater tool was the only single purpose tool needed. I didn’t have the time or bandwidth to document for a play by play.

It didn’t make a change in the steering situation (as anticipated). Now that I’ve got the arms in and greases the stabilizer links, I’ll bring it in for an alignment this week and see how that goes. More then...
 
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