[sparkydave]

Well, I figured it was going to be a fight. Doused them with PB Blaster, and so far, getting nowhere. Upper one on the left side turns slightly if I beat on it, but the whole thing is turning. Lower one won't budge at all and access with the wrench isn't very good. Stinks that the links that are on there are round on the other side so you can't hold them very well. Tried bracing a wrench with the Allen drive as I beat on the upper one, and it's just trying to walk out.

So, any tips? I'm thinking let the Blaster soak for a while, maybe go at it with the fire wrench. Lower one looks like a nut splitter might work. Upper one is recessed into the bracket, but maybe the impact wrench could help persuade it.

Strange thing, the replacement links have Zerk fittings. Haven't seen those in a while. They also have hexes on the inboard side, so at least I can hold them if I have to do it again.

 

[huntertn]

Sometimes you can use needle nose vise grips to hold the stud on the link side. But, the last set I did started giving me trouble and I just grabbed my grinder with a cutoff wheel and cut the nuts off. Or at least ground the nut enough to get it off the stud. I usually don’t futz with them to much before going to the scorched earth option.

 

[morfdq]

Go to harbor freight. They have an electric cut off wheel for like 20 dollars. Best investment I ever spent. Just cut them off. Literally 5 minutes.

 

[aggrex]

After ruining the teeth on a small vice grip I don’t waste any more time with old end links ….

 

[Piloteer359]

Well, I figured it was going to be a fight. Doused them with PB Blaster, and so far, getting nowhere. Upper one on the left side turns slightly if I beat on it, but the whole thing is turning. Lower one won't budge at all and access with the wrench isn't very good. Stinks that the links that are on there are round on the other side so you can't hold them very well. Tried bracing a wrench with the Allen drive as I beat on the upper one, and it's just trying to walk out.

So, any tips? I'm thinking let the Blaster soak for a while, maybe go at it with the fire wrench. Lower one looks like a nut splitter might work. Upper one is recessed into the bracket, but maybe the impact wrench could help persuade it.

Strange thing, the replacement links have Zerk fittings. Haven't seen those in a while. They also have hexes on the inboard side, so at least I can hold them if I have to do it again.

If you have a pair of vise grips with curved jaws, push back the rubber boot with the grips and clamp down as tight as you possibly can on the curved part in front of the boot and then you need an impact gun with high ft pounds or a breaker bar with a cheeter pipe

 

[sparkydave]

Go to harbor freight. They have an electric cut off wheel for like 20 dollars. Best investment I ever spent. Just cut them off. Literally 5 minutes.

That's sounding like the best option, do you cut on the nut side or the joint side? I think the upper one would have to be on the joint side. If I could get them to loosen slightly I could get the sawzall in there to cut the bolt.

 

[20Piloteer07]

@sparkydave , I think I saw your post at BITOG about this same issue.

I recently did my end links. The key for me was destroying the end link to get it out. If it's OK to destroy, here's how I got mine out:

• pop the ball out of the socket on both ends of the end link
• biggest vice grip pliers you have, lock onto ball
• use a 2x4 or something to prevent vice grips from turning.
• MAP or propane torch to heat up nut
• large breaker bar to pop it loose

-(This method saves the nut, as the OEM replacements did not come with a nut)

I would also consider adding anti-seize to the replacement's threads.

good luck

 

[Blackcat]

I'm with morfdq, right angle 4 1/2 inch grinder with a .040" thick cutoff wheel. 10 times faster than a hacksaw.

 

[aggrex]

I'm with morfdq, right angle 4 1/2 inch grinder with a .040" thick cutoff wheel. 10 times faster than a hacksaw.

The grinder does quick work too but I’d prefer less sparks

 

[morfdq]

That's sounding like the best option, do you cut on the nut side or the joint side? I think the upper one would have to be on the joint side. If I could get them to loosen slightly I could get the sawzall in there to cut the bolt.

The nut side. I feel your pain. I’ve been exactly in the same situation as you. I tried a saw zall that didn’t work. Went and got the cut off tool and 5 minutes later it was off.

 

[Chukmak]

I go straight to the cutoff wrench. Saves time, knuckles ...and frustration.

 

[CascadeSteve]

Well, I figured it was going to be a fight. Doused them with PB Blaster, and so far, getting nowhere. Upper one on the left side turns slightly if I beat on it, but the whole thing is turning. Lower one won't budge at all and access with the wrench isn't very good. Stinks that the links that are on there are round on the other side so you can't hold them very well. Tried bracing a wrench with the Allen drive as I beat on the upper one, and it's just trying to walk out.

So, any tips? I'm thinking let the Blaster soak for a while, maybe go at it with the fire wrench. Lower one looks like a nut splitter might work. Upper one is recessed into the bracket, but maybe the impact wrench could help persuade it.

Strange thing, the replacement links have Zerk fittings. Haven't seen those in a while. They also have hexes on the inboard side, so at least I can hold them if I have to do it again.

The normal way is to cut them off. The original links, and many replacement links, are exceedingly difficult to remove without cutting them off. There are some brands that have a real nut you can grab to remove the links. My memory is the OEM links have an interior hex shape that when rusted is impossible to use. Either you can't get the hex key in or if you do the rusted metal is so soft the hex shape is ruined.