Before replacing try this:
1) Vacuum the seat belt latch as best you can. If you can stick a small straw onto the shopvac tip all the better.
2) Blow some compressed air into the seat belt latch.
3) Drip a few drops of isopropyl alcohol into the seat belt latch then insert and remove the buckle. Repeat this five times.
4) Blow more compressed air in there to dry out the alcohol.
That is what I did to resolve my SRS warning light. A quick web search shows 9-3 is the driver side latch.
Honda seatbelts have a lifetime warranty and therefore I would check with your local dealerships.
Be forewarned - from everything I've read and heard, if an electrical component of the seatbelt system goes bad (such as the sensor in the buckle) then the replacement costs seem to vary from dealer to dealer.
In SW Michigan, my Honda dealer will read SRS codes for free and provide replace the buckle at no cost; the part covered and therefore free, but I have no idea if labor at the dealership (to swap out the buckle) would also be covered.
My dealer told me it would be a free replacement (parts and labor) if they determined the issue was caused by a faulty sensor. I would be on the hook for a $150 diagnostic fee if they didn’t find anything wrong. Since the issue was intermittent I decided to
try some things on my own before having the dealer take a look at it.
Appreciate all the recommendations! I tried the first set of DIY fixes (vacuum, rubbing alcohol, compressed air, etc) and it didn't have an effect. I went by the dealership for some other recall work that needs to be done and they said that, yes, the seatbelts have a lifetime warranty, but mine is US Spec and I'm in Germany right now....so I'd have to wait until I'm back in the states to have it done for free. Ugh.....
I did notice there are two screws on the bottom portion of the receptacle, but I'm having no luck finding anything to unscrew them. A similar youtube video has a guy doing the same thing on an Accord or something, and he's using a star bit (which is what I tried, but I couldn't get anything that seemed to fit). Anyone know what the specific bit that is required? At this point I'm about ready to just drill them out to get it open....anyone else done something like this or have any recommendations beyond taking a hammer to it!??
On my 2003 they are not screws, they are plastic plugs - in essence, they act just like the plastic body clips inside the fender wells (etc.). You can just find the seam and pop the cover off with a screwdriver - you may damage one of the clips, but just push out the plastic plug, mine was more than strong enough to hold on the cover.
You can also try peeling back the rubber cover on the actual sensor button and hitting it with electronic cleaner. There is a YouTube video detailing it, but it's not very difficult and rather intuitive. It worked for me...
I'm going to have to give that a try next......I tried disconnecting the battery to see if it would clear the SRS code....no dice.....so if I'm going to get this to pass German inspection, I'm going to have to crack it open or replace it.....thanks again for the advice!
Ok ...little confused..if the SRS restraints have a life time warranty on the life of the Pilot ..why the hell are we still playing with it? .. it's like a tim the tool man episode where he will still try to fix it even though the repair would be done for ...free
My dealer “threatened” a $~150 diagnostic fee if the problem was caused by me or if they were able to resolve it without replacing. The new part is around $70. My first thought was F that, I’ll figure it out myself.
I have to try and fix it myself, since I'm stationed in Germany and it's a US Spec vehicle (already tried the local dealership...they said they will handle any recall-related issues, but anything warranty related will have to be back in the US). I managed to get the cover off and I've cleaned the switch with rubbing alcohol. I let it dry (and hit it with some compressed air to make sure), but I can't get the light to go off). Is there another way to temporarily clear the SRS code from the dash (disconnecting the battery didn't do it)? If there isn't, then I'll have to pick up a used one from ebay and see how difficult it is to replace it myself. Thanks again for the help!
If you have an ohm meter, disconnect the seatbelt connector (under the seat) and measure resistance (across the connector) while you buckle and unbuckle the seatbelt. You should see it change from a low resistance to a very high resistance as you buckle and unbuckle it. If you don’t see the resistance change the switch is bad.
Searching around I found this info on resetting the SRS light (going to give it a try tomorrow):
1-) With the ignition switch to OFF, disconnect that connector (e.g. pull it out)
2-) Plug both ends of your wire into that connector you pulled out (e.g. one wire into each terminal of the connector)
3-) Turn the ignition switch to ON
4-) the SRS Light will come on for 6 seconds, then go off.
5-) Remove one end of the wire from the connector within 4 seconds of the light going off
6-) The SRS light will come back on.
7-) Push the wire end that you removed back into the connector within 4 seconds of the light coming back on.
When the light goes off, remove the wire (both ends) within 4 seconds.
9-) The SRS light will blink twice.
10- Turn the Ignition switch to OFF
11-) Put the yellow connector back in place.
12-) next time you start the car, the SRS light should come on for 6 seconds, then go off (normal operation)