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Hello, I’ve read several threads about owners complaints of spongy long travel brake pedals but no responses as to remedies to the issue.
I just test drove a 2016 with 93000 and did not purchase because the pedal felt so lousy .
Thx in advance for all responses
 

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Hello, I’ve read several threads about owners complaints of spongy long travel brake pedals but no responses as to remedies to the issue.
I just test drove a 2016 with 93000 and did not purchase because the pedal felt so lousy .
Thx in advance for all responses
Most usual cause is air in the brake lines and contaminated brake fluid. It could also be a leak somewhere in the lines or calipers. If there are no leaks or signs of brake fluid on the ground or undercarriage and brake parts, usually bleeding or better yet, changing the brake fluid should fix it. The brake fluid should be changed every two to three years. It's hydroscopic and absorbs moisture from the air which corrodes the brake lines and parts and lowers the boiling point which forms air bubbles when the fluid gets hot from brake friction.
 

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At that mileage it may just need new pads, fluid bleed and rotors. As mine feels pretty solid and firm when braking. I bought mine at 69k 2016 elite and dealer i bought it from had new pads and rotors installed.
 

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at 9300mi you should have bled the brakes and refitted it with new fluid. Swapping out to a different brake pad would eliminate the laxed bite after the initial grab. Honda Ridgeline and Odysseys are plagued by the spongy brake feel.

BTW, you can change it to a fluid with higher boiling point, but they wont fix the sponginess after the fluid runs out of its service life. @jimmaki put is extremely well.
 

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Two things did it for me, after spongy OEM brakes and "economy" brake and rotor replacements.

1) This set of good Centric brakes and rotors from Rockauto. Remember that the Pilot is a pretty heavy vehicle, so it benefits from beefier brakes. The bonus is that this set has black rotor hats, so you don't start getting that unsightly rust after the first couple of puddles. Get a set of these that fit your model year and trim.

More Information for CENTRIC 90640061


2) So many mechanics don't know the unusual but proper brake fluid bleeding sequence according to the service manual -- driver's corner first, then clockwise, but check for your model year -- so if I have it done, instead of lil' ol' off-the-street, non grease-covered know-it-all smartypants me trying to explain, now I just hand them the printout from the Factory Service Manual.
144499
 

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Spongy brakes = air in the brake lines. If it were mine, and the pads looked good, I'd flush out the old fluid with new. 32oz should be enough.
 
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Two things did it for me, after spongy OEM brakes and "economy" brake and rotor replacements.

1) This set of good Centric brakes and rotors from Rockauto. Remember that the Pilot is a pretty heavy vehicle, so it benefits from beefier brakes. The bonus is that this set has black rotor hats, so you don't start getting that unsightly rust after the first couple of puddles. Get a set of these that fit your model year and trim.

More Information for CENTRIC 90640061


2) So many mechanics don't know the unusual but proper brake fluid bleeding sequence according to the service manual -- driver's corner first, then clockwise, but check for your model year -- so if I have it done, instead of lil' ol' off-the-street, non grease-covered know-it-all smartypants me trying to explain, now I just hand them the printout from the Factory Service Manual. View attachment 144499
According to the Carfax (yeah, I know) ... the dealer did the brakes on my new to me 2012 about 30k miles before I bought it. I'm guessing they were OEM parts. I used to have a problem with the car creeping forward at long red lights. Maybe just my foot falling asleep. But since changing all the brake fluid, that problem has gone away. Aside from the red light issue, I've never felt the brakes were spongy. But I'll keep the Centric testimonial in mind when the time comes.
 
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