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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My wife’s Honda pilot 2012 model touring with navigation system and rear entertainment. The speaker stopped working suddenly and I’ve checked all the fuses took the unit are out unplugged all the plugs in the back of it plugged it back in still no sound took right side speaker outPlugged it back in still no sound any suggestions help road trip to New Orleans is going to be painful without a radio thanks
 

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My wife’s Honda pilot 2012 model touring with navigation system and rear entertainment. The speaker stopped working suddenly and I’ve checked all the fuses took the unit are out unplugged all the plugs in the back of it plugged it back in still no sound took right side speaker outPlugged it back in still no sound any suggestions help road trip to New Orleans is going to be painful without a radio thanks
I really hate to ask this, but you confirmed it hasn't been muted, right? Do you know where the remote is?
 

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I take it, functionally the radio appears OK, but no sound is coming out from any speakers? And ALL speakers cut out at once? You sure you checked the right fuses? Specifically, fuse # 31 (30A) in the under-dash fuse box? That is the amplifier fuse. As in, pulled the fuse and checked it with multimeter and not just visually?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I really hate to ask this, but you confirmed it hasn't been muted, right? Do you know where the remote is?
We’ve recently had to get a new key fob for it. The original one was lost. All of the All of the knobs and buttons and power work fine. I’ll took the head unit out and And put it back in and reset it with the code from the Parts dealership and still no sound
I take it, functionally the radio appears OK, but no sound is coming out from any speakers? And ALL speakers cut out at once? You sure you checked the right fuses? Specifically, fuse # 31 (30A) in the under-dash fuse box? That is the amplifier fuse. As in, pulled the fuse and checked it with multimeter and not just visually?
looked fine but haven’t checked it with a multimeter though. No sound from any speakers. All of them went out at once.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
We’ve recently had to get a new key fob for it. The original one was lost. All of the All of the knobs and buttons and power work fine. I’ll took the head unit out and And put it back in and reset it with the code from the Parts dealership and still no sound

looked fine but haven’t checked it with a multimeter though. No sound from any speakers. All of them went out at once.
How do I check it with my multimeter?
 

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Use either resistance (Ohm, Ω) mode (should show very small number) or if your meter has that mode, continuity.
If stereo itself appears fully functional, screen works etc, but no speaker sound, it is almost certainly the amp. If fuse 31 is good, then amp itself likely has a problem.
You need to pull the passenger front door sill plate trim piece and then a piece of trim in front of it (under the glove box) to access the factory amp. On the 24P connector to the amp, there are two thick purple wires on one side (positions 12 and 24), check DC voltage between those and any ground point - if it is not getting battery voltage, (12V+) problem is either the fuse or some wires going to amp. If you see the voltage, you likely got a bad amp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Use either resistance (Ohm, Ω) mode (should show very small number) or if your meter has that mode, continuity.
If stereo itself appears fully functional, screen works etc, but no speaker sound, it is almost certainly the amp. If fuse 31 is good, then amp itself likely has a problem.
You need to pull the passenger front door sill plate trim piece and then a piece of trim in front of it (under the glove box) to access the factory amp. On the 24P connector to the amp, there are two thick purple wires on one side (positions 12 and 24), check DC voltage between those and any ground point - if it is not getting battery voltage, (12V+) problem is either the fuse or some wires going to amp. If you see the voltage, you likely got a bad amp.
Awesome man thank you!!! I’ll try that shortly. Stay tuned!!
145007
 

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You really do not need to take out any speakers.
Go access the amp, it should take less than a minute to pop off the trim panels I mentioned. (front passenger door sill, and then the panel that would be to the right of passenger feet)

Pin numbering: Look at the connector from the back (wire side) with retaining tab facing up. Pins are numbered: top row left to right, then bottom row left to right.

With multimeter set to DC Voltage mode, measure your battery voltage on the battery itself. Should be 12-somehting Volts.

Unplug the shorter thicker 24P connector from the amp. It will have two thick purple wires in positions 12 and 24, and two thick black wires in positions 1 and 13.
Perform following tests:
Measure DC voltage between 1 and 12 and between 13 and 24. Both should read battery voltage.

Switch multimeter to resistance mode. Test following pin pairs:
6 and 7 - rear right door.
8 and 9 - rear right pillar
10 and 11 - rear left pillar
14 and 15 - subwoofer
16 and 17 - center dash
18 and 19 - front left door
20 and 21 - front right door
22 and 23 - rear left door.
All of these should read around 4 Ohm, except subwoofer, which should read around 2 Ohm.

Unplug the longer 28P connector, test following pin pairs:
13 and 14 - right dash tweeter.
27 and 28 - left dash tweeter.
Those should read something a bit higher than 4 Ohm, likely 8. But anything 4 and higher is ok.

If any pin pair reads less than 1 Ohm, that's a short. If any pin pair reads like '0L' that's an open - but that should not affect others.

Wight also want to test each speaker as well.
Best way to test speakers is with this device:
Clamp a pair of small nails in its gator clips and use as probes.
Lacking that, a simple alternative is to tape a pair of wires to a 9V battery.
Sleeve Gesture Camera accessory Finger Cameras & optics

Touching wires to the pins (on the unplugged amp connector), there should be a 'pop' sound from the corresponding speaker.

Now plug both connectors back into the amp.
Measure DC voltage from the pin2 on the 28P connector (should be yellow) to a ground - either one of the thick blacks on the other connector or any exposed metal
With car off, it should read 0V.
Start the car, measure that voltage again. This time, it should read like 12V.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You really do not need to take out any speakers.
Go access the amp, it should take less than a minute to pop off the trim panels I mentioned. (front passenger door sill, and then the panel that would be to the right of passenger feet)

Pin numbering: Look at the connector from the back (wire side) with retaining tab facing up. Pins are numbered: top row left to right, then bottom row left to right.

With multimeter set to DC Voltage mode, measure your battery voltage on the battery itself. Should be 12-somehting Volts.

Unplug the shorter thicker 24P connector from the amp. It will have two thick purple wires in positions 12 and 24, and two thick black wires in positions 1 and 13.
Perform following tests:
Measure DC voltage between 1 and 12 and between 13 and 24. Both should read battery voltage.

Switch multimeter to resistance mode. Test following pin pairs:
6 and 7 - rear right door.
8 and 9 - rear right pillar
10 and 11 - rear left pillar
14 and 15 - subwoofer
16 and 17 - center dash
18 and 19 - front left door
20 and 21 - front right door
22 and 23 - rear left door.
All of these should read around 4 Ohm, except subwoofer, which should read around 2 Ohm.

Unplug the longer 28P connector, test following pin pairs:
13 and 14 - right dash tweeter.
27 and 28 - left dash tweeter.
Those should read something a bit higher than 4 Ohm, likely 8. But anything 4 and higher is ok.

If any pin pair reads less than 1 Ohm, that's a short. If any pin pair reads like '0L' that's an open - but that should not affect others.

Wight also want to test each speaker as well.
Best way to test speakers is with this device:
Clamp a pair of small nails in its gator clips and use as probes.
Lacking that, a simple alternative is to tape a pair of wires to a 9V battery.
View attachment 145018

Touching wires to the pins (on the unplugged amp connector), there should be a 'pop' sound from the corresponding speaker.

Now plug both connectors back into the amp.
Measure DC voltage from the pin2 on the 28P connector (should be yellow) to a ground - either one of the thick blacks on the other connector or any exposed metal
With car off, it should read 0V.
Start the car, measure that voltage again. This time, it should read like 12V.
Wow thanks man!!! I’m working on it now
 

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While at it, you can also check if audio unit is actually sending sound. Doable with any pair of headphones and some wire but much easier if you have one with a 1/4" adapter..
One wire looped over the tip of the plug, another over the sleeve. With car running and when you expect sound to be playing, touch those wires to pins 5 and 19 (5th pin in each row, this is front left preamp input) on the 28P connector. You should hear the sound in left headphone.
 
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