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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi fellow piloteers...I'm new to the forum and feel a bit confused. Recently did a tune up on my 3.5 L 2015 and need to start trouble shooting because things went from bad to worse. My first question is do I have the correct spark plug Gap? I have conflicting findings of .040" and .044"...went with a local auto parts store that said .044? Can anyone confirm this? Thanks
 

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Well if you bought the OEM NGK 92924 DILZKR7A11G Laser Iridium Spark Plug the OEM listed Gap is 0.044".


 

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Welcome to the forum.

What issues are you having with your Pilot?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well if you bought the OEM NGK 92924 DILZKR7A11G Laser Iridium Spark Plug the OEM listed Gap is 0.044".
Thanks for the follow-up. I was working on a budget so I used the auto lite iridium xp5701. The boys down at O'Reilly said these had the same gap call-out of .044"/1.1mm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Welcome to the forum.

What issues are you having with your Pilot?
The check engine light came on and I had a mechanic friend hook up his obd scanner. It relayed misfire on cylinders 1,5&6. So working on a budget I replaced the 3 spark plugs. Then the other 3, a few days later. However it didn't seem to fix the rough running. So on the way home from the parts store with six new coil packs the engine light starting blinking and the engine will not turn over. I've pulled all the new spark plugs, cleaned them since they look to have gotten fouled and reinstalled them along with the 6 new coil packs. I did an oil change put everything back together and now it still doesn't want to turn over. It's trying but it just won't fire. Thanks.
 

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How did the old plugs look? Oil fouled? The vcm system seems to have long term issues in disabled cylinders with oil passing the rings. But only 1 of the cylinders you reported is vcm active.

miles and service history? might offer more clues.
 

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I’m guessing you’ve already tried the simple things such as verifying all the coil pack electrical connections fully mated and that the battery cables are nice and snug on the battery. Have you verified the battery is good? If the battery is the original it’s likely time to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How did the old plugs look? Oil fouled? The vcm system seems to have long term issues in disabled cylinders with oil passing the rings. But only 1 of the cylinders you reported is vcm active.

miles and service history? might offer more clues.
Good morning, I purchased this used been happy so far. It is higher miles tho pushing 150k. Pretty sure plugs and coils we're original. The old plugs all looked worn(ends we're white) no signs of oil until after I pulled the replacements before installing the new coil packs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I’m guessing you’ve already tried the simple things such as verifying all the coil pack electrical connections fully mated and that the battery cables are nice and snug on the battery. Have you verified the battery is good? If the battery is the original it’s likely time to replace it.
Good point the battery may be low on juice after the past few days. I did replace the alternator about a month ago and while I was at it replaced the battery too. Think I'll throw battery on the charger. Here's to hoping there's not enough cranking amps.
 

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Thanks for the follow-up. I was working on a budget so I used the auto lite iridium xp5701. The boys down at O'Reilly said these had the same gap call-out of .044"/1.1mm.
.044 is the factory gap of the OE spark plugs. Just know that prying on the electrode to gap, will damage the plug.
I also hate to say that it's a very very common problem to have misfires by installing cheap spark plugs like Autolite. For what ever reason, these V6 Honda's do not perform well for long on spark plugs other than NGK or Denso (Laser Iridiums). I'd take those plugs back to O'Reilly if they will give money back.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
.044 is the factory gap of the OE spark plugs. Just know that prying on the electrode to gap, will damage the plug.
I also hate to say that it's a very very common problem to have misfires by installing cheap spark plugs like Autolite. For what ever reason, these V6 Honda's do not perform well for long on spark plugs other than NGK or Denso (Laser Iridiums). I'd take those plugs back to O'Reilly if they will give money back.
Thanks for the feedback...my gut was telling me that it's just not getting spark and I had to gap each auto lite and I hate to say it they seem cheap. I will back track a little and see about upgrading the plugs and making sure the battery has juice after all the fooling around I've been doing. Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you all who's been helping me try and figure this one out. So far I've charged the battery and had it checked at Advanced...all ok. I returned the auto lite plugs but still working on a budget picked up and installed NGK Iridium IX spark plugs. However it still just won't turn over. The owners manual calls out a very specific NGK part number, do I need Laser Iridium spark plugs to make my baby go?
 

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Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you put the key into the II position? Hoping it’s something simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you put the key into the II position? Hoping it’s something simple.
That was a thought I had I'll see if I can hear it prime... I'm also wondering if I have a sensor that went out, saw the post about the VTM4 light which also has been coming on prompting me to start the tune up.
 

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For the VTM-4 light, you’ll need a Honda specific reader to pull the code. Or use the OBDII jumper method to blink the main (but not sub code) on the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
For the VTM-4 light, you’ll need a Honda specific reader to pull the code. Or use the OBDII jumper method to blink the main (but not sub code) on the dash.
The centech obdII I have isn't much help at this point. The VTM-4 light is off and the check engine light blinks 5 times telling me the IM readiness codes are gone since I pulled the battery. Been trying to get ahold of the gentleman I know that had the code reader which Bluetooth to his phone, but no luck this memorial day weekend and all?
 

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Thank you all who's been helping me try and figure this one out. So far I've charged the battery and had it checked at Advanced...all ok. I returned the auto lite plugs but still working on a budget picked up and installed NGK Iridium IX spark plugs. However it still just won't turn over. The owners manual calls out a very specific NGK part number, do I need Laser Iridium spark plugs to make my baby go?
IX should work. But they are only good for 40-50k miles.
 

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Ok, please, let's take a deep breath and start over.
What are the exact engine codes?
If O'Reilly sold you Autolite spark plugs, I'm concerned about what brand of coils they sold you. Brands other than Hitachi, NTK or Denso, usually don't work well on a Honda. Coils usually last longer than the miles you have.
This is my punch list for a well running Honda V6....
  1. Disable the VCM. A VCM disabling device will keep your engine running on all 6 cylinders 100% of the time. I use S-VCM.
  2. Air Filter New/Clean
  3. Air intake tube leak free, clamps tight.
  4. Clean the Mass Airflow sensor (MAF). Remove sensor. With CRC Electronic Cleaner or MAF Cleaner, spray a few short bursts directly into the visible electrodes to knock the dust off. Let dry thoroughly before re-installing.
  5. Spark plugs New/Clean NGK Laser Iridiums
  6. Spark plug tubes oil free. Replace valve cover gaskets grommets and spark plug tube seals if oil is found. Replace intake plenum gasket if doing the valve cover job.
  7. Coils oil free. Replace boots if oil soaked swollen.
  8. Replace PCV valve
  9. Replace EGR valve (if high milage with unexplained rough idle)
  10. Use full synthetic 0w20 oil. No extended performance oils or semi blends.
  11. Use top tier 87 octane fuel or regularly use fuel injector cleaner.
  12. Take on some long highway speed drives.
 

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If we know the exact engine codes, there may need to be a another part replaced.

Hate to think the worst, but my other concern is if/when the timing belt water pump job was ever done if spark plugs are original. Honda recommends this to be done at 105k miles. I'd hate to think the belt broke and doing maintenance on a broken engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Good morning all... thank you Nail Grease for the checklist. I plan to start running through that. Also want to let Road2Cycle know I can hear the fuel pump prime when I turn to ACC2. Unfortunately I don't recall any codes we saw when I replaced my alternator and battery eventually starting this journey. Today's marching orders include trying to find a more sophisticated code reader and see if it leads me to a discovery of timing belt etc. Continued thanks everyone.
 
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