Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When turn on AC on car AC compressed is not spinning

recharge gauge on low pressure line not giving me a reading

So is there a I should do...like try to use the refrigerant anyway
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,434 Posts
If the clutch is not spinning, you should check the AC relay in the fuse box. Pull the relay and shake it. If it rattles, you need a new one. Once the clutch engages again, then you can add freon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
312 Posts
If you hooked up the gauge and have no pressure the compressor will not turn on. There is a low pressure switch that will not let the compressor turn on if the system is out of gas to prevent the compressor from being damaged. You can verify that by bypassing the pressure switch and see if the compressor will turn on.

You can put gas in it but it sounds like it has a leak so it will just leak out again. I would first look around and see if you see any oil staining on the refrigerant lines. The system is lubricated by oil that circulates with the gas so one easy sign of a leak is an oily residue around the leak. If you don't see any oil staining you are probably going to have to put some gas in it to find the leak.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
New o-rings are available at auto parts stores, just be sure to ask for the ones for A/C, they are usually green. Lube them with PAG 46 oil, that was the oil that was listed for my kid’s 2006 Pilot.

Edit: Not PAG 48 oil, (if that's even available) it's PAG 46 oil. Changed above.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When turn on AC on car AC compressed is not spinning

recharge gauge on low pressure line not giving me a reading

So is there a I should do...like try to use the refrigerant anyway
So...I bought a Cheap refrigerant “Super tech w/ gauge” but it seemed as if the nozzle could not screw onto the low pressure line. So went ahead and bought a AC pro(just the can) thinking the super tech can was the issue (Don’t understand my logic). Still no fix , because of course the nozzle was the issue. So frustrated I just went ahead (after being $40 in the hole) and bought the A/C pro can with gauge for $32. Same one I used last year.

Now the super tech can gave a fill increments based on the ambient weather. So I went based off that for my filling.

It was 75 degrees and the super tech can said go to 35 to 45 psi so....

I hooked up the A/C pro can with the gauge (20oz) and pumped the can. It was working and the pressure was rising. But before I new it the can was empty and the pressure was only at 30 psi...but in the green....SO WHAT DOES MY DUMB A** Do??

START Filling the AC with the other AC Pro can I bought before (16oz) SMFH. Then when I was done, gauge read only 35 psi maybe....SO.....

I USE THE SUPERTECH CAN TO FILL UP THE AC...SMFH...
WHEN DONE I STILL WAS ONLY AT LIKE 39 psi or something.

NOW MY CAR IS LEAKING FRON UNDERNEATH. DONT INOW WHATS LEAKING!!!!!

But under the HOOD THERE WAS LIQUID ALL OVER THE LOW PRESSURE LINE!!!

I FUC*** UP. ANY FIXES??

AND IF YOU LOOK AT MY LAST PICTURE, I SAW THAT ON THE GROUND. Don’t know if it was mine or not, I was parking in a restaurant parking lot....Is that for my car??
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
Joined
·
10,290 Posts
SMH, time to take it to a guy.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
The 2006 I worked on took a maximum of 26.7 ounces of R134a. It looks like a bunch of the oil charge blew out of it. The 2006 takes 9 ounces of PAG 46 oil.

Since the system has been open for so long, the desiccant bag will have to be replaced. It is located in a vertical tube on the side of the condenser, at the driver's side end of the condenser. It comes out the bottom, and you'll need a metric allen socket to get it out. Moisture in the system will turn to acid, and eat lines, the compressor, etc. you get the idea.

There are two evaporators, one behind the glove box (for the front A/C) and the one for the rear A/C is located in the center console, between the front seats. The Low and High side lines split off in the engine compartment on the passenger side, and the lines for the rear A/C go across and down, and can be seen underneath the car. I suspect one of these lines is damaged.

The last part is that once the system is back together, sealed up and leak tested, you have to attach a vacuum pump and evacuate the system. An electronic vacuum gauge that reads in microns is preferred here, as the system should be evacuated down to below 500 microns (according to what I was taught, there is some controversy here). Then the system can be charged with refrigerant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
312 Posts
Dan is correct. 26.7 ounces is maximum for an 04 also. It sounds like you may have put a little to much refrigerant in the system. Was is cooling ok?

The liquid you saw under the car and on the low pressure line is condensation, which is normal and nothing to worry about.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes was cooling but when i tried to drive with the AC on it felt as if the engine was shifting on me or something.. like a rattle...Keep in mind I still have to change transmission fluid and all that
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes was cooling but when i tried to drive with the AC on it felt as if the engine was shifting on me or something.. like a rattle...Keep in mind I still have to change transmission fluid and all that
Now when I try to turn on A/ C (stationary) I heart a crazy loud knocking noise.. ima just call it...SMFH
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Sometimes the repairs are easy and things go well, sometimes the whole mess gets you down and stomps on you!

That’s how the compressor replacement went on my kid’s 2006.

Snapped off a compressor mounting bolt at the beginning, that was fun to extract!

Rounded off one of the tiny bolts that hold the aluminum hose adapter to the compressor, had to CAREFULLY grind the head off with a Dremel tool.

Got it all back together, drew vacuum to 180 microns, filled it with refrigerant and tried it.

It ran for a half hour before the defective coil on the compressor broke loose and spun 90 degrees - warranty replacement on the compressor! It was a NAPA reman too. Lost the refrigerant charge, and all the time I had in to that part of it. And a few days waiting for the 2nd compressor to arrive, plus install time.

My kid was quoted about $4000 for this job, so she let me have at it. I thought I could do it over a long weekend, it took 3 weeks. Had to replace both TXVs, replace the condenser, and completely flush the system, but I learned a LOT.

Take a breath, get a quote, and decide.

The quote may justify buying some tools...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
I thought I was gonna run out of swear words before I finished...

The same day I got the Pilot out of the shop and we traded back, that night my youngest hit a rail on a railroad track by turning too soon. 2004 Mini Cooper, 5 speed manual.

Poorly lit crossing, I’d done the same thing at the same spot several years ago.

Destroyed the right lower A arm, drive shaft, wheel and tire. Set 2 airbags off, on the passenger side. Nobody hurt.

The best part? We have a deal: She really wanted a Mini Cooper, so she gets everything that goes with it!

She does 90% or more of the wrenching, I coach her through it. I do stuff she could get hurt trying, like holding back the idler spring for the serpentine belt and changing said belt.

Watching a teenage girl do her own suspension work has been more entertaining than anything on TV!

So far, she has changed the radiator, water pump, alternator, starter motor and some of the radiator hoses.

Wife and I are splitting the parts costs with her, front end needed an overhaul anyway. Ball joints and bushings were already worn out.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top