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2008 Piot SE FWD, 2015 Pilot LX 4WD. 2005 GSX-R1000
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
AND,
then after reading countless posts and links to countless years posts, I'm back to the future! LOL

So, on my 08 FWD= (2WD), with191K miles on it. OEM everything suspension- except the brake pads-

I think I want to just get the entire assembly of strut, LCA, compliance bushings? Right?
And this can be found on Rock Auto? Any links would be nice.

AND- I can DIY this in 4-8 hrs?

TIA
 

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So, how does a 'control arm' wear out? It's the bushings on the ends, right?”
Unless one jumps the curb as seen on TV the control arm rarely needs to be replaced. What does wear out from usage or age is the rubber compliance bushing and/or ball joint. New LCAs make the replacement much simpler than trying to replace just the compliance bushings and/or ball joint. Just like installing “loaded” struts rather than trying to salvage and reuse your old springs. Note improper removal of the old springs can cause serious bodily harm or worse.
 

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What he said. At 191k, you got your money's worth.

I'm a "do it all while I've got it apart" kind of guy, so in addition to struts and LCA's (I like ProForged, by the way), I did everything with rubber on it: sway bar bushings, sway bar links, outer tie rods, and axles if your CV boots are torn. I had some rust down there so I bought all new bolts for the structural connections, too. Honda OEM for the smaller parts doesn't add much to the cost.

If you're really well prepared, you irrigate every fastener with PB Blaster starting a week before, and all goes well, you could finish both sides in 8 hours. I would plan on having two sessions available, though - the second side will go a lot faster, but being rushed is when the fun starts going out of the work.

I strongly suggest being really, really careful around the steering knuckle, especially when it's free from the strut. The speed sensor is very delicate, and replacing them is a pain.

It's a good driveway DIY job. Enjoy.
 

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Yes, It did happen to my Pilot 2003 3 years ago when it logged 180K miles. I have the car since 2003 and have been running great until lately with transmission slip issue. I had a clicking noise when I made a sharp left or right turns for sometimes but I was able to live with problem for 2 years. However, during a regular oil change with free inspection, dealer technician pointed out bushings of lower control arms, trans axles, front sway bars, ball joints, tie rods with signs of worn out, broken boots and grease leaks. But they quoted me 2.5K for parts and labor to replace them. I am one of DIY guys who love to learn/do simple things that I can reach within my ability and skills. After my own assessment and reference videos, I ordered the genuine parts online and few tools. In the end I did save roughly 1.5k in labor and the clicking noise went away and no more dirty mess collected sand under. Learn a lot and can say Yes you can do it too.
In summary, I just replaced
  • two bushings (no need to replace the steel arms), save time if you replace the complete factory steel arm with bushing. This took the most of my time (4hrs) to extract and replace the bushing.
  • complete two tie rods and two swing arms. Very easy to do both. Took around 2 hrs for 4 of them. The challenge is to make sure you keep track of turns on tie rods during removal/installation to minimize the alignment issue.
  • two trans axles
It took me total 10 hrs to finish (on two separate weekkends) the job but I did it with meticulous slow pace. Here is my personal experience, I spent few hours each wkend for a month to watch/re-watch quite a few of YouTube clips, read forum tips, buy proper tools, and build a mental notes of what to expect and how to approach it in term of safety and technical steps. In all my DIY projects I always spent more research time which help to save time later when I started the hands-on part. Now it logged 230K and still running fine with no front steering/alignment issue. You might save money with after market brands. Good luck

Forgot to add 2 hrs extra to raise/wedge/secure the car on flat driveway so I had roughly 18in safe clearance to work. I live in S.Cal so safety is always in my head.
 

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2008 Piot SE FWD, 2015 Pilot LX 4WD. 2005 GSX-R1000
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the replies.
I've also heard to use the better parts? Honda or 'Tacoma03' mentioned Proforrged?

Luckily, I have no clicking, and only a slightly rougher ride. It's not too bad.
But I did get my moneys worth out of this for sure.

I may attack it over 2 days before next winter.

Any Great DIY videos or links to the parts that any of you have handy?
 

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So, on my 08 FWD= (2WD), with191K miles on it. OEM everything suspension- except the brake pads-
I think I want to just get the entire assembly of strut, LCA, compliance bushings? Right?
AND- I can DIY this in 4-8 hrs?
An '08 Pilot with 191K on the clock will be due for a timing belt change within about a year and/or 20K miles.
Are you planning to have the timing belt job done then?
If not, why bother with the suspension overhaul?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
An '08 Pilot with 191K on the clock will be due for a timing belt change within about a year and/or 20K miles.
Are you planning to have the timing belt job done then?
If not, why bother with the suspension overhaul?
Too funny.
The first belt was done at 141K miles- I know, I know- now.
It's got a bit more on it.
 
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Thanks for the replies.
I've also heard to use the better parts? Honda or 'Tacoma03' mentioned Proforrged?

Luckily, I have no clicking, and only a slightly rougher ride. It's not too bad.
But I did get my moneys worth out of this for sure.

I may attack it over 2 days before next winter.

Any Great DIY videos or links to the parts that any of you have handy?
YouTube is my virtual teacher. Just use the English-like phase to search for relevant parts that you want to work on. You might have quite a few of tutorials but you need to go make decision on which one is worth to follow. This is where I spent most of time to help me decide which approach make more sense than others. The following are few examples I used.
I used this link for removal of control arms on 2003. Best close up video.
I don't like to use the hammer approach as suggested by some other links to extract the bushing. I Invested a ball joint separator to save your sweat, You can find it in AutoZone or Harbor Freight Tools
Someone lent me this kit but it did not use it.

Instead this trick is quicker and cost only few dollars from HomeDepot.
BTW, I don't work for any of these co's. Hope that help. I love tools, even I used only once but they saved me lots of frustration.
 

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I've also heard to use the better parts? Honda or 'Tacoma03' mentioned Proforrged?
I believe that Honda prices their suspension parts to encourage 100k mile trade-ins. The cost of Honda struts is just weirdly high. Their LCA's are way out of line, too. The parts guy at my dealer just laughed when I asked him about those.

KYB Strut Plus are fast, easy and safe. ShockWarehouse puts them on sale now and then. Rock Auto has all this stuff and the Piloteers discount. ProForged fit great, and still doing well after 25k miles.

The online Honda parts guys are valuable for the small stuff. Just look at the assembly diagram and pick out what you need.
 

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What he said. At 191k, you got your money's worth.

I'm a "do it all while I've got it apart" kind of guy, so in addition to struts and LCA's (I like ProForged, by the way), I did everything with rubber on it: sway bar bushings, sway bar links, outer tie rods, and axles if your CV boots are torn. I had some rust down there so I bought all new bolts for the structural connections, too. Honda OEM for the smaller parts doesn't add much to the cost.

If you're really well prepared, you irrigate every fastener with PB Blaster starting a week before, and all goes well, you could finish both sides in 8 hours. I would plan on having two sessions available, though - the second side will go a lot faster, but being rushed is when the fun starts going out of the work.

I strongly suggest being really, really careful around the steering knuckle, especially when it's free from the strut. The speed sensor is very delicate, and replacing them is a pain.

It's a good driveway DIY job. Enjoy.
Looking at doing this to our 2005.
I'm actually sourcing parts this weekend

As to why do this on an old car ... hand me down to a teenager. Cheaper insurance and easier to work on than my wife's 2012 Odyssey.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks ya'll. Greeat posts!
Actually, my front end is still doing well. Struts are still working some too. Not just bouncing up and down repeatedly.

When I need them for sure- this will help, thanks.
 
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Thanks ya'll. Greeat posts!
Actually, my front end is still doing well. Struts are still working some too. Not just bouncing up and down repeatedly.

When I need them for sure- this will help, thanks.
I replaced these parts on my '08, per the recommendation of my alignment guy. He said the LCAs and rear bushings did not need replacement, which surprised me as the vehicle had 175,000 on the clock:
-KYB front & rear shocks/struts and strut mounts
-Moog coil springs and seat/insulator
-Mevotech stabilizer bar links, front & rear. The old links were either frozen or so loose you could wiggle them with your finger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I replaced these parts on my '08, per the recommendation of my alignment guy. He said the LCAs and rear bushings did not need replacement, which surprised me as the vehicle had 175,000 on the clock:
-KYB front & rear shocks/struts and strut mounts
-Moog coil springs and seat/insulator
-Mevotech stabilizer bar links, front & rear. The old links were either frozen or so loose you could wiggle them with your finger.
Well, I don't have 'an alignment guy' Never needed one.
My tires always wear evenly, and it goes straight down the road. But thanks for the post. Good info.
 
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It's been my experience that Honda ball joints last a good long time. I finally replaced the lower ball joints on my '98 CRV a year ago at the 285K mark and to be honest I could've gone even longer because they still were not exhibiting any play to speak of. Yeah, they moved freely but they certainly weren't worn-out either. I just thought it was time to replace them since I was already replacing the upper arms/balljoints and also the CV shaft on the left side. With the age of the vehicle and the fact that I only put around 7000 miles per year on the old girl these days I decided to install Proforged lower ball joints instead of going with OEM's. I have had very good luck with Proforged's outer tie rod ends and Proforged is known for their high-quality ball joints. Anyway, with that in-mind that's why I decided to reuse the factory original LCA's on my '05 Pilot at the 190K mark two years ago because the ball joints still had a ton of life left in them. The only thing worn in my LCA's were the compliance bushings so I bought a pair of OEM bushings for a good price on Amazon which were being sold by Honda (so I knew they weren't fake knock-offs) along with a dedicated tool that I picked up on ebay for $50 to push them in and out....worked like a charm as the tool almost effortlessly pressed the old ones out and the new ones in. I'm guessing the ball joints have at least another 70-80k miles left in them and at this point it's gonna take me 7-8 years to get there. I will say this, my first choice(besides OEM) would be Proforged if I'm ever forced to replace my LCA's as Moog ain't what it used to be and aftermarket parts in general are a crap-shoot.
 
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